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2007 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (10/25/2019)
Opening this btl just over 3yrs and 2 months since the 2nd of 4 btls. This is now close to peak but should hold for 3-5yrs. Ill try to wait at least 3 for my last btl. Translucent crimson color with some bricking. First sniffs and sips were promising so I chose to simply slow ox in Burg glasses and btl for 90 minutes prior to dinner. Upon opening showed some match stick that blew off quickly leading to tertiary underbrush and roses aromas. Palate carries over the underbrush adding; rainier cherry, spice, mushroom and minerality. Signature Mugnier lacy elegance that immediately screams Chambolle. Very weightlessly pretty and ethereal! It’s palish red color and feather weight bely it’s concentration and persistence. Impressive!!! 12.5% alc. Way too bad this lovely, enticing wine I’ve paid as little as $35 for now is listed for $200 plus pretty much everywhere. You might, be able to find some 2013 for less than $150. That said, excepting the also fantastic NSG Clos Marchalle and maybe still Les Fuees, this is far and away the most bang for the buck in the lineup. Just not much Mugnier to go around
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2016 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (10/17/2019)
I can’t argue with Jeremy Holms, take on this wine. It shared a compelling and varied flight with; a precocious 2016 PYCM CC, a featherweight 2016 Lafon Meursault Charmes and a massive 2016 Coche Village Meursault. Of the group this was my all round personal favorite for its; spot on Puligny Montrachet drive, precision, sappy minerality and balance. This, for me, is quintessential white Burgundy and Puligny Montrachet with Grand cru level concentration and energy. Occasionally, the chalk gets a bit much but, all in all, I loved it! (95 pts.) -
1975 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque - France, Champagne (10/17/2019)
This tonight was the superb Guy Clarke songwriter to the 88 Krug Collection’s full on rocker '71 Who’s Next. Starting out relatively austere but with compelling minerality and orange peel this took on considerable more nuance and complexity as the night progressed reaching a crescendo about 2 hours in. A study in quiet perfection and precision. It’s elegance and precision bely its complexity and range. It has lovely energy provided by prefect acidity and tantalizing bubbles that never seem intrusive, abrasive, nor youthfully bright. Instead the structure maintains the upmost in a unique mature version of freshness sans even the remoted sign of oxidation. Not unlike drinking a great 20yr old white Burgundy but with the added effervescence. I rated this the same as the 88 Krug Collection for completely difference reasons and if pushed would choose this as my top choice between the two but what a great flight together. This is the more intellectual of two outstanding glasses of champagne. This 75 also had the most youthful color of the 3 champagnes with its much paler release like gold color. Thanks Brad! (98 pts.) -
2010 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru (10/17/2019)
5 of us just along for the ride on Brad’s Great Adventure (st genevieve): Will this opportunity ever come again! A Rousseau Beze from, hands down, the best red Burg vintage I can recall. Sure hope so but if not, Ill long savor tonight’s 2010 / Rousseau Beze Burgundy tasty perfection. For me, the only way this wine could possibly improve is with further age which will then likely make a 110pt wine for me. This was universally adored by all 5 who shared it’s pleasures tonight. This saw a short decant and proving it was singing went back into the btl with hopes it would stay as great when we got to it after 4 champagnes and 5 white Burgs This was the lone red tonight. And it came on the heels of several inspiring, head shaking champagnes & whites. Think this was the only wine not shared with the staff? It was a “very good night indeed” as Clive Coates would say .
Perhaps the densest Rousseau I’ve ever had. The color was even semi opaque ruby vs. the usual semi translucent color of most Rousseau. That said, this was also the most; weightlessly layered, energetic, elegant and pure Rousseau I’ve ever had from a producer who is consistently par excellence among producers. And, at just short of 10yrs old, both the nose and the palate displayed tertiary damp forest floor notes after an hour in the glass. Deep aromas of fresh dark fruit, forest floor, incense, spice and mineral abound. The wine is sensual and nearly exotic while always presenting perfectly farmed old vine purity with classic Burgundy weight and ethereal contemplation. As nearly always from Rousseau, perfectly balanced. Is there a better producer in Burgundy? One of the most soulful wines I’ve ever had the privilege to drink. A masterpiece! Thanks Brad! (100 pts.)
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