Served blind, though I’ve never had it before I thought the Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2006 might be “hit or miss”. Fortunately it was the former. Very cloudy, rather light yellow in appearance. The nose is unlike any white I’ve ever had. One guest noted “tar”, and I think I agree. A lot going on here, with a Marsanne-like waxiness/honeyed quality, but with a very Italian bracing acidity and slightly bitter orchard fruits. Drank much younger than 13 years old, and improved as it continued to open and also warm to room temp. We drank this prior to food, which made me wonder how this might best be paired? Or is it rather a true vino da meditazion? I think I heard this wine once mentioned as “a white that drinks like a red”, and I doubt I could describe it better than that. Worth seeking out IMHO. 94
The Lomborghini “Campoleone” 1999, as usual, was solid if not spectacular. A merlot/sangiovese “super Umbrian” blend, the wine is still muscular but softening. Nicely marries the plushness of merlot and sternness of sangiovese. In a pretty nice spot now. Certainly enough fruit remains for now, but probably best to drink up. A great value. 92
The Feudi San Gregorio Irpinia Serpico 2001, served blind like the others, stumped me. I am a fan of aglianico, but this one lacked the rustic, volcanic characteristics I usually enjoy in the varietal. Don’t get me wrong – the wine is tasty, but it had a smoky/gravelly nose competing with some rather forward vanilla cherry fruit. If you like your aglianico somewhat more polished, this might be for you. I guessed it to be a modern barolo or barbaresco. I suppose that’s why they call it “the barolo of the south”? 90
The Bussola “TB” recioto 2004 was perhaps the most captivating dessert wine I’ve ever experienced. I haven’t had much recioto, and my naive general impression had been “amarone on steroids”. This wine will make me revisit that assumption. Paired with a chocolate and peanut butter torte, this wine was a still tightly wound gaggle of bitter cherry, prune, fig and espresso. But not whatsoever in a cloying way. Rather, the wine has some salty savory qualities that worked beautifully with the peanut butter, but also led me to believe this could work quite well even as a dry table wine. I wonder about blue cheese? The finish seems never-ending. 97