The tradition of sharing great wines with the Chicago crew started in 2009 when Justin B organized his first SQN blowout charity dinner in DC. Since then there have been one or two annual gatherings every year. I was lucky enough to join the festivities since 2014. This time, three Chicagoans flew in and five DCWINOs and a PA wino hosted them.
The dinner was held in a private room at Officina. We explicitly requested well marbled USDA prime yet we got grass fed beef that was cooked very close to medium. Other dishes were also mediocre at best. Considering how great Masseria’s cooking is, this was another major disappointment. At least the wine service was spot on.
Rooftop - White Burgundy
This was good but not worth the $100 price tag.
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2016 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Slightly subdued nose displaying coiled yellow fruit, lemon curd, honey, steel, rainwater and wet stone. Very good concentration, coiled citrus, rich yet precise, bright acidity, steely mineral and a medium to long shy citrus fruit driven finish with wet stone at the end. The fruit is shy and the overall expression is a bit straightforward. (91 pts.)
Rooftop - Champagne
A few of us loved it but a couple of the gents found it slightly past the peak.
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1983 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne
En magnum, same provenance as the magnum from August with almost identical expression. Fully mature nose displaying sweet yellow fruit, apricot dominates, also cinnamon apple pie, dry peach, crème brulee, honey, lanoline and limestone. Excellent concentration, finely layered generous yellow fruit, still showing plenty of fine mousse, rich yet nicely detailed, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with cinnamon and caramel at the end. This is a fully mature Cristal. The expression is dominated by tertiary notes. If energy and freshness are preferred, this may be a bit to advanced, YMMV. (97 pts.)
Champagne
The 96 DP Oeno was a great clean example. The 08 Cristal also showed well which was a no surprise.
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1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
Absolutely captivating nose displaying elegant white and yellow fruit, apple, pear, starfruit, lemon curd, honey, beeswax, smoke, lightly burnt sugar, brioche and limestone. Perfectly harmonious palate, very finely layered subtle white fruit, elegant, energetic and beautifully detailed. Incredibly fine generous mousse, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long subtle white fruit driven finish with smoke and honey at the end. This is a really clean example, i.e. no lees. 2013 disgorgement. One of the best examples of the 96 DP Oeno. (98 pts.) -
2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne
Expressive nose displaying succulent yellow fruit with a hint of white, apple dominates, granny smith, a hint of apple pie with cinnamon, pear, sap, oyster jus, honeysuckle, ginger and limestone. Remarkably harmonious and energetic, very finely layered rich yet pure white fruit, abundant very fine mousse, excellent precision and detail, bright acidity and mineral, and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with apple and sap at the end. Drinking incredibly well, a great future ahead. (97 pts.)
Chablis
All showed well but Al thought both Raveneaus were very reductive.
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2009 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Very focused “Dauvissat” nose displaying lemon curd, lemon oil, granny smith, a hint of pineapple expressing the vintage ripeness, honey, beeswax, oyster shell and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, nicely layered dense yellow fruit, rich yet very precise and focused, bright acidity and strong wet stone mineral and a long rich yellow fruit and mineral driven finish. This is a classic Dauvissat Clos. Based on my examples going back to 2011, no sign of premox. (95 pts.) -
2008 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Medium expressive coiled nose displaying sweet yellow fruit, lemon curd, peach, crème brulee, honey, spearmint, beeswax, cool mountain stream and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, finely layered ripe yellow fruit, rich yet energetic and precise, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with crème brulee and mineral at the end. It feels slightly coiled. Alan finds it very reductive. I actually like it a lot. (96 pts.) -
2007 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Expressive nose displaying sweet yet pure yellow fruit, lemon curd, fresh apple, honey, beeswax, spicy spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, finely layered pure yellow fruit, rich yet cool and energetic, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish. This seems more generous. The comparison to the 08 Valmur is very similar to comparing the 07 vs 08 reds, i.e. 08 is purer, coiled and more focused where the 07 is more open and generous. (96 pts.)
White Burgundy
I really loved the 08 Jadot Chevalier, truly a classic.
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2010 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Expressive nose displaying succulent rich yellow fruit, yellow peach, apple pie, sesame/oak, oyster shell, caramel and limestone. There is a hint of botrytis. Excellent concentration, opulent and oily ripe yellow fruit, dense and deeply toned, medium acidity, good mineral expression, and a long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with caramel and spicy spices at the end. It expresses the finesse and balance of Chevalier as well as the ripe and oaky style of Girardin. (96 pts.) -
2008 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Gorgeous nose displaying delicate yet expressive yellow fruit, peach, light caramel, vanilla, sweet spices and limestone. Perfectly integrated palate, very finely layered yellow fruit, elegant, precise and energetic, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long rich yellow fruit driven finish with light caramel and mineral at the end. Not a block buster but perfectly balanced and noble, very Chevalier. (97 pts.) -
2005 Etienne Sauzet Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
The first bottle was premoxed and this is also quite advanced. I had a very nice bottle two years ago but caveat emptor! NR (flawed)
Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg
This was a pleasant surprise, pretty serious.
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2016 Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Expressive nose displaying hedonistic red and black fruit, raspberry, blackberry, black cherry, Vosne spice, lavender, roasted coffee bean, spicy spices and mineral. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of opulent exceptionally sweet red fruit, generous and rich yet silky and polished, bright acidity, good stony mineral and a long hedonistic red fruit driven finish with a hint of caramel and Vosne spice at the end. Excellent showing and a pleasant surprise. It will require minimum two decades to reach the peak but should be always enjoyable with generous ripe fruit. (96 pts.)
DRC
The 06 Richebourg was drinking incredibly well.
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2006 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
En magnum, ideally stored bottle. Expressive beautifully mature yet energetic nose displaying subtle sweet red fruit with a hint of black, raspberry, blackberry, plum, a hint of stem, Vosne spice, sap, roasted nuts, caramel, perfect amount of sous bois and mineral. Perfectly harmonious youthful palate, layers upon layers of very fine red fruit, silky, precise and detailed, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long subtle sweet red fruit driven finish with caramel and Vosne spice at the end. The resonating Vosne spice and truffle note at the end are both fascinating and hedonistic. Perhaps not as complex, i.e. less Vosne spice and Chinese medicine as La Tache but displaying perfect harmony. Absolutely gorgeous. (98 pts.) -
2005 Bernard Dugat-Py Mazis-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
The color remains opaque. Painfully youthful nose displaying incredibly concentrated black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, blackberry liqueur, raspberry, noticeable oak, licorice, sweet spices and earth. There is noticeable sous bois that is mostly masked by the intense fruit which is fascinating. Unbelievable concentration, layers upon layers of dense black fruit, unctuous and oily, bright acidity and good mineral, and a long intense black fruit driven finish. Although it is impressive, I am not sure what to make out of the incredible concentration, Alan mentions very Northern Rhone and I have to agree. It is a Burgundian equivalent of Roberto Voerzio’s barolo. May be another two decades to reach the peak… I am not sure. (94 pts.) -
2002 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Excellent appearance. Unfortunately, very muted nose, perhaps poor storage. NR (flawed)
La La
All three showed well. Al was able to guess them correctly. La Landonne was easy to guess.
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1991 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Perfectly mature nose displaying sweet black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, fruitcake, tapenade, strangely ginseng, a hint of rose, caramel, charred steak and mineral. Beautifully balanced youthful palate, layers upon layers of perfectly ripe black fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity, very fine mineral, no noticeable tannins and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with rose at the end. This is in the middle in terms of youthfulness and concentration. Assuming that La Turque has to be the lightest, my guess is La Mouline. (98 pts.) -
1991 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
The most youthful appearance, and the nose and palate to match. Youthful expressive nose displaying intense perfectly ripe black fruit, blackberry, blackberry liqueur, cherry, licorice, spearmint, tapenade, caramel and mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated black fruit, unctuous yet silky and nicely detailed, bright acidity and strong limestone mineral and a long intense black fruit driven finish with licorice at the end. Clearly the most youthful and concentrated of the flight. Easy to pick at La Landonne, no viognier here! Drinking beautifully but this can easily improve for another decade or two. (97 pts.) -
1991 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Perfectly mature nose displaying subtle red fruit with a hint of blackfruit, strawberry, raspberry, a hint of dry cherry, sous bois, strong cedar, leather, matsutake, tapenade, roasted nuts and mineral. Fully resolved palate, very finely layered sweet red fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity and strong mineral, and a seamless subtle red fruit driven finish with soy and cedar at the end. It is the softest and most ready of the flight which leads me to guess La Turque. With air, it gains weight and becomes more youthful. (97 pts.)
SQN
Big boys!
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2005 Sine Qua Non Grenache The Naked Truth - USA, California
Incredibly youthful nose displaying intense ripe black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry jam, Chambord, coffee, fruitcake, lavender, coffee, sweet spices and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of explosive jammy black fruit, dense and oily yet also silky, warm and round, bright acidity, medium mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long jammy black fruit driven finish with coffee and sweet spices at the end. Impressive concentration and youthfulness yet seems almost shy next to the 17th nail. (95 pts.) -
2005 Sine Qua Non Syrah The 17th Nail in My Cranium - USA, California
Still impenetrable color. Incredibly youthful expressive nose displaying intense jammy black fruit, blackberry jam, crème de cassis, lavender, strong licorice, liquid smoke, ink, coffee ice cream, sweet spices and earth. Unbelievable concentration, layers upon layers of explosive jammy black fruit, unctuous and deeply toned yet silky and polished, good acidity, earthy mineral and an incredibly long black fruit driven finish with ink and licorice at the end. Once again, this wine will outlive all of us. (96 pts.) -
2001 Sine Qua Non Midnight Oil - USA, California, Central Coast
Expressive nose displaying jammy black fruit, blackberry, cherry liqueur, fruitcake, cumin, a hint of tobacco, leather and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of ripe black fruit, unctuous, warm and round, bright acidity and mineral and a long sweet slightly dry black fruit driven finish. Although it still shows generous fruit and remains youthful, seems at least a decade older than the 05 EBAs. (95 pts.)
Despite very fish caviar, bucatini swimming in anchovy, over cooked magret de canard, chewy steak and mediocre cheese service, a great time was had by all.
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