2017 Domaine Dujac Chambolle-Musigny
I like Dujac wines. They are like hermaphrodites to me. I know that sounds strange, so let me explain. They seem equipoised between masculine and feminine. There’s a yin-yang symmetry to them. Sturdy, sappy elements are balanced by delicate, spicy notes. They can start with a bit of earthy force but they always finish with perfumed elegance. They glide gently.
The wines are not fussy and are easy “to understand.” Yes, they have stems and oak that dirtheads/classicists might object to, especially when young. (A bit like Cathiard I suppose). But they are pleasure bombs to me, up and down the range. (Also like Cathiard!).
The bottle last night zipped right out of the gate. I think the style of the 17 vintage works well with the basic Chambolle Musigny. Often Dujac's village CM and MD need a few years to untangle their feet and sort themselves out. They can turn inward and be a bit structured and clay-ey. The 17 is more airy than usual, with a lacy and perfumed style that is beguiling. Is it super complex? No. Is it irresistibly delicious? Yes.
2015 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet
I made a mistake and bought too much 15 village white Burgundy. I had tasted the wines during a trip to Burgundy and fell into irrational exuberance back home. The bottles have turned out to be a bit flabby and indistinct.
I had hoped that Jacques Carillon might be a different story. Unfortunately, my stash of his village Chassagne Montrachet has underwhelmed. Not terrible, just not very exciting. They're a bit squishy with a weird lactic note. Not much lime zest or gravel dust!
I tried the straight Puligny Montrachet this week. Fortunately, there is some hope. It’s a bit more structured and has some lift. Still a bit soft on the finish, where some honey notes creep in. It’s OK and correct. But at the $75 price I paid, I have regrets.
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