Michael Bowden was able to secure a day and a half with Francois Labet for tastings and nice dinners. Francois is an owner of Chateau de la Tour through his family, the Morin’s, and also owns his own very good domaine, Domaine Francois Labet.
Our visit was a combination of socializing and serious tasting. We had a dinner last night that blew me away.
Francois started his journey in 1984 by taking over the family Domaine Francois Labet and Chateau de la Tour in Clos Vougeot his family property for generations (since 1889). His first years were with consultant oenologist Guy Accad who also worked with Domaine Grivot. Later he transitioned to the present style with the help of consultant oenologist Sylvain Pataille from Marsannay changing the wines from very structured wine requiring extended cellaring to a wine of silk and lace. " (He) is actually the first member of his family—which dates back at least 500 years in Nuits-Saint-Georges—to direct viticulture and winemaking in the Clos de Vougeot, as formerly the property was always run by resident managers." ** He is also the President of the BIVB.
I won’t take up too much with history, vineyard sites etc here. I will say that his Clos Vougeot holdings are the largest with over 5 hectares owned. He has some vines over 100 years old. These vines are vinified separately and labeled VV in good years. Split into 2 cuvees in great years. VV and Homage a Jean Morin (his grandfather). He produces only 800 to 900 bottles of Hommage a Jean Morin in a great vintage.
Bravo Francois! Thanks for the visit.
2012 Domaine Francois Labet Savigny - Vergelesses 1er cru Blanc
This is amazing. A nose of golden fruit. Sparkling. Crystaline but also showing power. Perfect ripeness. The palate is similiar to Bonneau du Martray with which it has to share some limestone ridge with the Corton sites in Pernand. The finish is long and elegant. So much in reserve. A huge surprise. Fantastic. Unfortunately for me, impossible to find.
2008 Chateau de la Tour Clos Vougeot VV
Beautiful dark primary nose of pinot and incorporated earthy notes. Precise but very relaxed in presentation. The palate is so silky and shows a wonderful texture that lets the wine drape over your palate. The wine is mineral. The finish is sublime. Very young and incredibly good.
1990 Chateau de la Tour Clos Vougeot VV
This one has a very dark color. The nose is very dark but fresh. Earthy. The palate is so stacked with firm tannin. Somewhat angular. There is a nice finish here. The wine was just starting to take on some volume after about 30 minutes. To me this is a typical Accad wine. Reminds me of older firm Grivot.
2009 Domaine Francois Labet Meursault Tillets
From one of the best lieux-dits in Meursault. This is sublime. Emotional. Such an incredible equilibrium of bright golden fruit, mineral and finishing complexity. One of the best wines I have ever tasted from Tillets. Incredible. Also impossible to find.
A great night. I wish Francois safe travels to Cleveland and then home.
Don
** I copied this from Steve Tanzer. The wording was so good I just couldn’t seem to change it.