I was fortunate to be invited to an exquisite event at Le Papillon Restaurant in San Jose. There were about 24 invitees, and as far as I could tell, I was the only one jotting notes! It was assigned seating, and I was fortunate to be seated next to the US representative of Bollinger. She was lovely, articulate, and knew just how much to say about each wine so that the social aspect of the dinner was not interrupted.
Briefly:
Bollinger Brut Special Cuvee was served as a greeter, along with a wonderful assortment of Hors d’Oeuvres. A very nice wine.
2008 Bollinger Brut Champagne La Grande Annee - to me, acidic up front, but opening to a nice brioche. This wine varied most in the glass through the evening. The rep said it was extremely limited production. Served with scallop crudo.
Bollinger Brut Rose Champagne - a gorgeous floral bouquet and lovely bubbles. An addition of 5% still red wine is added. Served with slow poached lobster with braised leeks. Fantastic pairing.
2007 Brut Rose Champagne La Grande Annee - just an outstanding wine. Just as the Rose above but elevated. I believe the rep said it represents less than 1% of the wines they produce. Served with Grilled quail and chestnut agnolotti. My wine of the night, for sure.
Bollinger 007 - 100% Pinot from the 2011 vintage. We were the first group in CA to taste this unique wine. The presentation is something else. Upon opening the box, the bottle lifts itself up. Perhaps I had too much wine! Served with squab, golden raisin puree and matsutake mushrooms.
2007 Bollinger Brut Champagne Blanc de Noirs Vielles Vignes Francaise. I did not “get” this wine. I turned my first pour back because it tasted oxidized to me. The pour from a new bottle was better, but honestly, it was not special to me. I think she said only 90 bottles were imported to the US. Served with New Zealand Red Deer and Alba white truffle. Desserts followed.
Thanks for these notes. The VVF is a fascinating champagne and can occasionally be spectacular (the 1996 being the example that comes to mind). The problem is that it does not even come close to warranting it’s price, IMO. I’m sure Bollinger has little difficulty selling it, but it is odd to me that in almost every vintage it’s not the best wine they make. Their RD is a better wine in every vintage since 1996 when they have released both the RD and the VVF. I understand that the RD and VVF are entirely different wines vis cepage and blending, but I can’t think of another champagne producer for which their top wine by price is consistently their second or third best wine by quality. Maybe Krug? I haven’t tasted enough Ambonnay to know, but in my limited experience Ambonnay is an amazing wine, so I don’t think that’s a great comparison.
Merrill, sounds like a fun dinner. I’ve never had the VVF, but I enjoy Tarlant’s equivalent (IIRC these are the only two non-greffee champagnes that are made, or at least they used to be).
I’m curious how she pronounced the house name? I’ve always been taught it is correctly pronounced in the German, not the English or French way. But I’ve heard reps who switch from English to French pronunciation, unpredictably.
I have struggled with recent vintages of GA showing very oxidative notes on release. Sounds like the VVF was there, but the 2008 GA was not. Did you notice a heavier, oxidative profile on any of the wines other than the VVF?
Very interesting notes. It is odd that the 08 Grand Annee is “extremely limited production.” It is their primary vintage champagne I thought. Haven’t had the 08 but have loved the win in past vintages. And I absolutely agree about the 07 rose. Sensational wine.
I don’t recall the exact production numbers, but while the volume is less in 2008 compared to other vintages, I think the rep’s statement is a bit hyperbolic.
Interesting. There are multiple YouTube videos from Bollinger themselves, that pronounce it differently. But even a French-born rep was switching back and forth in the same conversation. Often businesses succumb to what their customers want, even if it is wrong (for example, Porsche, which Americans uniformly mispronounce, and even some of the company’s American commercials have done so too).
I wonder if anyone has a recording of Madame Bollinger herself actually pronouncing her own name? I’m a great believer in pronouncing things the way the natives pronounce them, but we violate that more often than not in the US.
I’m going to France in a few months, and may stop off in Champagne just to answer this question lol!
Good to know. It’s been a decade since I stocked up on Tarlant La Vigne d’Antan (my favorite Champagne name!), since the price has gone through the roof. Down to my last bottle, and I was actually thinking about taking it to a HSS dinner tonight. But at that time there were only Tarlant and Bollinger.
Sounds like a fun tasting! Thank you for sharing the notes and updating the status of the '07. I will need to revisit the 2007 La Grande Annee. I tasted it about a year ago and it was very promising but very young. I will set time to open it along side the La Grande Annee Rose 2004.
