I do agree that Gantenbein Chardonnay is pretty extraordinary for a Chardonnay almost no-one has ever heard of. I had the vintage 2014 a year ago, it was quite something.
2014 Gantenbein Chardonnay - Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Bündner Herrschaft, Fläsch (3.12.2018)
Gantenbein is considered one of the top wine producers in Switzerland. They farm only 6 hectares, of which 5 ha are for Pinot Noir and the rest (approx. 1 ha) is mainly for Chardonnay with a little bit of Riesling as well. The average annual production of this Chardonnay is only 200 cases. 14% alcohol.
Pale lemon yellow color. Very intense, complex and quite concentrated nose with pure aromas of ripe golden apples and nectarine, some creamy richness, a little bit of sweet white peach, light reductive notes of gunpowder smoke, a subtly caramel hint of oak, a touch of pineapple and a green whiff of sappy white fruit. The wine is medium-bodied, very lively and remarkably youthful on the palate with intense, concentrated flavors of ripe citrus fruits and fresh golden apples, steely minerality, some creamy richness, a little bit of sappy green-toned fruit, light star fruit notes, a hint of coconut and a touch of smoky reductive character. The acidity feels very high, which makes the wine feel remarkably fresh and light on its feet despite the concentration. The finish is fresh, crisp and mineral with flavors of tangy green apples, some key lime, a little bit of creamy richness, light sweeter notes of ripe citrus fruits, a hint of toasty oak spice and a touch of sappy white fruit.
A remarkably balanced, intense and almost nervous Chardonnay that feels all too youthful at this point. I’ve seen Gantenbein Chardonnay likened a few times to Chablis wines that are built like white Grand Cru Burgundies from Côte d’Or, and now - having tasted the wine - I must say that it is an apt comparison. The wine shows the bright minerality, intense green-toned fruit and even smoky reductive one might associate with a Chablis, but the rich, creamy undertones, power and concentration are something one would look for in a Grand Cru Burgundy; this spectacular white manages to combine those characteristics seamlessly into one. The only thing this wine is lacking is age - even at 4 years of age the wine feels all too young and most likely it will require much longer than a decade before it hits its apogee. However, I must say that despite its impressive qualities I still feel that the wine is just too darn expensive at 200 CHF (~185€). (94 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker