One of the greatest wine/food matches I have ever had was Brat’s Grouse with an aged d’Angerville yesterday for lunch. The bird was cooked just rare and had intense gamey flavour and a texture that mirrored that of the 1993 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets. It has a core of sweet cherry fruit. There are purple flower notes and a hint of earth. It is calm and even, but with outstanding depth and precision. The finish is loaded with geological matter and length of flavour was terrific. The wine crackles with energy because of its electric acidity.
Brat is an awesome restaurant and we will return next time we are in London.
That pairing, that location, this time of year sounds like heaven!
I have a few 93 d’Angerville Fremiets, so your note is very encouraging. I just love the subtlety and red-fruited transparency of the house style. “Calm” is a very apt descriptor.
I’m game for a meal like that. Wine off list?
Coincidentally, I had grouse yesterday at the legendary St John restaurant in London, UK. We brought a number of Burgndies and N.Rhones which pared superbly with it. These included 1996 Hospices de Nuits NSG 1er Cru, 2000 Lafarge Volnay Clos des Chenes, 1996 Jadot Chambertin, 1986 Rochas Hermitage and a 1997 R.Rostaing Cuvee Terroirs.
Jeremy, I love it when there’s that perfect single bottle over a great lunch. Nice work.
Hi Nicos. Funny, I was thinking of St John just this week. Hope all is well.
Hi Brad, always a pleasure to hear from you. I trust that life is treating you well. St John is rocking at the top of its game at the moment. I have had two meals there in the last two weeks. It’s game season!
Don’t eat all the game before we get there next month!
Jeremy - we’ll also be at Brat and have this bottle earmarked for our meal, assuming it’s still available. Thanks!
Sarah, the Turbot at Brat is also awesome. Go with a healthy appetite.
Thanks, I had heard the turbot was a highlight, a la Elkano. Since we were actually not particularly impressed by Elkano, we’re still in search of that perfect turbot!