TN: 2016 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico

Association (Viticoltori di) San Donato in Poggio (Castello della Paneretta, località Monsanto II, Barberino val d’Elsa, FI): Very impressive, and after some minutes with this, my mind keeps echoing ‘mini Cepparello’. Generous, yet structured, this is very fresh (i.e. nothing reduced), and bright with excellent soil, red fruit and forest notes on the nose and palate. I’ve been a fan of Paolo’s wines for 2+ decades, and this is quite the Classico, I have to say. Medium>Med+ body, lots of fresh acidity, and of course, a fine tannic frame. Get some while it’s available, it’ll sell out quickly. highly recommended.

Thanks Tim. 2 great vintages of Chianti in succession, a great time to stock up.

So how is 2017? Tim it looked like your CT note favored 2017.

Bank accounts were hit hard due to all the quality 15 & 16 harvests across Europe. Those that did not also cross the border into Italy made a huge mistake. The Isole’s were a great find. I ran out of space months ago, but I’m still buying these CC’s and CCR’s at every opportunity. Don’t forget the Brunello’s.

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According to Jancis Robinson, this is 82% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo and 3% Syrah. The Isole e Olena Cepparello is 100% Sangiovese, cannot be called Chianti because of silly labelling rules that make no sense to me. Can you compare the two? I have bottles of the 2009 Cepparello begging to be opened, but 3-1/2 years ago I projected to wait 3-5 years and recent CT notes suggest that I underestimated the cellar time. Any thoughts about aging the Chianti or the Cepparello?

Tim and Bob Hughes have much more experience, but generally I drink most CC’s between years 5 and 10, and CCR’s between 8 and 15 years. (I’m drinking my regular 2010 Felsina CCR’s right now). Isole e Olena Ceppparello, like Felsina’s Rancia usually come from the oldest and best vines, and receive a fuller new oak treatment. I’m just starting to drink my 2004’s and 2006 Rancia’s and they have plenty of time ahead.

My experience is that the top Chiantis behave a lot like some of the top, but less structured, Brunellos. In other words, they can age beautifully. I have in fact tested this hypothesis with Isole e Olena. I find the Cepparello a bit tight and intense when young (I tried the 2013 and 2015) but give them a few years and they bloom. Right now I’m part way through a half case of the 2006 and am loving them. They are still nicely fruited, well balanced, with a wonderful perfume. They could easily go another 10 years or longer I’d expect, but mine won’t get the chance - right now they’re in a sweet spot for me.

The Chianti Classicos (I’ve tried Felsina, IeO, San Giusto a Rentennano recently) seem like wines that are made to drink young. I’ve enjoyed these all a lot, with the IeO far and away my favorite. Could they age and improve? I’m not sure - but probably for at least 3-5 years. I’d like to try more of the CCs of this group of Chiantis.

I do find Chianti to be very vintage-specific when it comes to questions about aging. Like Ron said, the 2004 Rancia is really just starting to drink well and probably has another 10-15 years ahead of it in terms of a prime time window. On the other hand, Rancia in vintages like 2005, 2007, 2008 and 2009 have all been in the “drink or hold” zone for a while. 2009 was a hot year in Tuscany, and even wines like the Stella di Campalto Brunello are showing very well at this point. I think the only 2009 I have in the cellar that I haven’t felt the urge to try yet is the Le Pergole Torte.

One of the best wines that I have had in the last few years is a 1980 Castello di Monsanto Riserva. I also recall buying a case of 97 Antinori Badia e Possignano CC which startied really hitting its straps at 12 yrs of age.
I have bought a fair bit of '16 Isole CC with the expectation that it will age well, and have bought a fair bit of '13s and 16s from various producers with the same aim.

Chianti Classico is supposed to be a blend. If you have a bunch of Cepparello open one or risk winding up like Tuite. champagne.gif

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I had some 2017 Tuscan Chianti and the vintage is not as good as 2015/2016. The critics may say something different but I do not agree.

Actually, I favor the 2016 vs the 2017 CC.

That said, my cellar has/will have 2016, 2018!, 2019!, but no 2017CC. The 2017 is fine, but I’ve got a few others (e.g. Casa Emma, Podere La Cappella, Quercia al Poggio, etc) that I prefer in that specific vintage vs the 2017 Isole e Olena CC. Casa Emma’s 2017 CC was/is insanely good.

I hope this helps.

That helps, it doesn’t look like Casa Emma is that widely distributed.