TN: 2016 Von Schubert - Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett (Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer)

2016 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (7/25/2019)
– popped and poured –
– tasted non-blind on Day 1 and on Day 7, alongside 2016 Max Ferd. Richter Veldenzer – Elisenberg Kabinett –
– AP #: … 04 17 –

NOSE: expressive; deep; smoky — “darker” than the Richter; bitter lime; slight petrol note.

BODY: pale yellow color; no spritz; same appearance as the Richter; medium bodied.

TASTE: medium+ acidity; nice, but not rip-roarin’ or nervy; slight petrol; I prefer this, by 2 to 3 points, probably, to the Richter; 7.5% alc. not noticeable; brighter palate than the Richter, despite the “darker” aromatics. Still very nice on Day 7 after being recorked and put in the fridge. Gut impression score: 91 – 92. Will buy again.

It often amazes me how little attention von Schubert gets - even among German wine lovers. This is an elite German wine estate and I sense that a lot of people (esp. younger wine people) don’t even know who they are or barely do.

I’ve always been aware of their presence, but this was, unfortunately, the first time I’ve tried one; won’t be my last!

I own a ton of Grunhaus wines, but always want them to age more…and more.

I never did dig into the full story- if memory serves many speculated it was how sulphur treatments were handled- but in the late 90s and early 00s the US market, and the Texas market in a big way, retreated from von Schubert wines on the grounds they were becoming inconsistent and not as great as they once were. Prior to that, they were- again in Texas- one of the most widely stocked and respected German estates, at least relative to the degree of attention the region gets around here. But for a long time, no one carried them- and so there was no way for newer wine people to even just grab one to try on a whim while perusing store shelves.

My TNs from that era are limited because the stores I frequented dropped the line entirely, but for my part I have not found any technical difficulties with the wines, and the few that were minor disappointments were no more so than vintages where other greats like Schaefer did not have quite their usual great outcome (no one ever gets it all right every year.)

I think the return to the VDP, and indeed being elected to lead almost immediately, is helping to change perception now. Von Schubert made magnificent 2016s, and the Kabinett Auction is a real super-star wine. Certainly around here the wines are again very much in favor with local German fans and once again readily obtainable. For my part, I am buying them in recent vintages more aggressively than those of almost everyone else.

The reason the VDP return is important is that it will be critical to the wines finding favor with the blue-chip collector crowd who are now very keenly focused on Keller and Egon Muller, and who need to have trophies to chase- ie auction wines- to garner their full interest. Checking off the box- if you will. While I certainly do not favor the prospect of too much attention making the wines high dollar trophies for showing off, credit where it is due- von Schubert rightly belongs on the short list of the greatest producers, with demand and pricing to match.

My understanding is that a lot of the reasons for limited distribution during that era is that they were not represented by either Terry Theise or Rudi Weist and that many wine stores for a long time really ignored German producers not in one of these two portfolios.

Availability was a huge issue for many years. The wines are still harder to source than they should be, but it’s not as bad as it was from 2002-2010. I have a big gap in my Grunhaus collection because I could not find the wines.

And BTW, the 1999 and 2001 wines (two vintages that David Schildknecht was decidedly cool about) have turned out beautifully with age.

They had been imported and distributed by Valckenburg, as I recall, and then changed importers sometime after 2003, I think. I know Astor carried the 02s, but the wines did sort of vanish from the shelves for a while.

FYI, among a cohort of riesling-loving friends of mine in their 70s, the estate is affectionately known as Green Max.

Yup. I have heard that nickname from “older” fans. (Older in quotes since I am now over 50!)

Never went away in the UK. Absolutely top tier.

It’s been my favorite German wine estate for damn near 40 years - Even their QBA’s are a revelation -

Yep.

That question I cannot address too intelligently because at the time I was still largely in customer mode and just starting to get involved in the business as well as branch out to buying around the country. Plus of course back then we did not have the wealth of highly transparent national availability that we do today.

What I can say is that for the areas and stores I knew best- yes there was often a strong reliance on Theise and Weist to cover Germany as a category. But those retailers who relied on it and paid little attention were also more focused at the lower end. I had no trouble finding and obtaining all the von Schubert wines I wanted- and for the most part within Texas- from retailers that took the care to stock the wines. In that sense, perhaps one could compare von Schubert to, for example, Chateau Ausone. No, there were not many places in Texas where one could buy Ausone 20-30 years ago, but the wine sold quite quickly where it was offered to a very grateful core group of aficionados.

As for Texas collectors in general (which was my entire world of knowledge at the time aside from alt.food.wine)- at least to the extent to which I knew them and their favored estates either personally or through acquaintances of my father- in the time before von Schubert disappeared from the market for a while, there were three German wineries that were avidly collected and cellared, and revered above all others. Those were Egon Muller, JJ Prum and von Schubert.

One other interesting data point which I did not mention earlier because I cannot remember precise numbers- in the very late 90s or early 00s (soon after the website replaced the periodic mailers), Premier Cru offered 1959 von Schubert Auslese for an astonishing price. If I recall correctly, it was around $1,000 per half bottle and $2,000 per bottle. At the time it was a DRC price- Romanee Conti was just passing the $2K mark for any vintage in the secondary market. And the bottles sold! I have never forgotten that because the number was so incredibly high and also because it was the first time I had ever seen von Schubert that old offered for sale.

Point being- all the evidence I have, much of it anecdotal, is that once upon a time von Schubert was very clearly considered among the greatest wineries in the world, and certainly in the very top ranks in Germany.

One other thing I would note now that I have had a day to think on this thread, here in the United States I think there have been three great boosts to interest in German wine in our generation- meaning times when a lot of new collectors got interested and started buying. First came the 2001s, and there interest was driven largely by the high quality of the vintage itself.

Second was the 2007 vintage, and at that point there was not only vintage hype but we had a thriving national market and stores like Chambers and Crush joined Dee Vine in being major national players who were not only carrying the great estates of the day but introducing many wineries to the US for the first time. This was also the time when specific wineries also really started to get a lot of attention in a more sexy-celebrity sort of way- Donnhoff, Keller and Schaefer-Frohlich for a start, and also Willi Schaefer and AJ Adam.

Finally, you have the 2015s. And here an additional factor comes into play. You have a great vintage. You also have increased retail distribution of the wines to the point where even more- and larger- retailers are carrying and promoting the wines. But now you also have a market in which wild speculation has run deep in many markets, and is now turning to Germany. It is visible across the board- stricter allocations, higher prices, and most notably- a highly unusual broad and strong upward trend in pricing at the annual auctions.

Von Schubert missed out on those first two booms courtesy of not being much of a presence in the US market when they happened. That brings, I think, something of a disadvantage coming into the present. But from what I have seen and tasted of late, I imagine that disadvantage will erode pretty quickly. While I certainly hope I do not end up spending a king’s ransom for them- the upcoming Mosel Trier Auction could be an important indicator for the future. It is a great Auslese vintage and von Schubert has both a GK and a LGK Auslese in the auction, which will be their fourth auction since returning to the VDP and the first time in that period that von Schubert has offered an Auslese with a GK or LGK designation.

Wasn’t Valckenberg, their importer, based in Texas or Oklahoma? That might have something to do with availability in your area. These things are still somewhat regional. Rudy Wiest’s portfolio is much better represented on store shelves in California than in New York.

Valckenberg was either based in, or had heavy presence in, Oklahoma.

Tom-the celebrity status for some vintners started prior to 2007. Also the advent of more German wine presence at some top US retailers also started earlier than 2007.

+1

The '01 vintage seemed to be the turning point. As retailers got more interested, they publicized star winemakers. All of which was good for German wine awareness overall, even if it pushed up prices for a few producers.

Right. Things cooled off somewhat, but then 2005 picked things back up again. 2007 was an afterthought compared to 2001 (biggest) and 2005 (big).

Cut my VSMG teeth on the 06 Herrenberg Auslese No. 49 - and while it took me a few years to start buying later vintages, I have loved them all. The Kabs in particular are ridiculously good wines which happen to be less than $25. I would pay more given the quality level.

I understand that. I am speaking to the general flow into cellars in a broader context. In my appraisal work, when I see cellars where someone is more recently into German wine, 2001 and 2007 are the usual starting point where there is extensive quantity.

None of the phenomena we are discussing come on suddenly, but it is usually those phenomena combined with a great vintage that leads to what I would describe as a significant increase in the breadth of a wine’s being collected and cellared.

But you are speaking to an infinitesimally small portion of the market to describe the whole. The wine world is not just collectors. Not even close.