A few choice dinner wines: 02 DP, 04 Krug, 08 Rougeard, 94 Hommage, 00 Sorrel, 07 red label

  • 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
    It’s been around a year since I last tasted this; I don’t think it’s changed much. There’s a slight bit of reduction still, and this is a really tightly coiled wine. Fabulous concentration and complexity, with a good sense of ripeness, but I just get a feeling that there’s just way more hidden under all that taut acidity. This needs a few more years to loosen up. (93 pts.)
  • 2004 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
    I had forgotten that I had tasted this a month ago, but this is pretty much consistent with that experience. This isn’t a great Krug, but one that I feel is solidly average (which means it’s still basically 99th percentile champagne). The raciness of 2004 is here, both in a fruit profile that is a little more white than yellow, and the texture here is a little more thin, even though this displays the concentration and complexity you would expect from Krug. Still very taut, this needs either a good amount of air, or a decade or so to resolve. (93 pts.)
  • 2008 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
    Probably the best Loire red I’ve ever had. This had a stupendous, dizzying array of red fruit, a touch of earth, and a very subdued hint of pyrazine on the nose. It’s incredibly complex, but also extremely drinkable – one of those great wines where you will be rewarded no matter how much attention you pay to it. The palate is still a little youthful, but the red fruit here is sappy, sweet, and so well-balanced with the acidity. This is very clean and restrained, despite some moderate earthy tones on the palate. The tannins could stand to use more time to resolve, but there is absolutely no harm in opening this now. (93 pts.)
  • 1994 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    I drink very little Châteauneuf-du-Pape (because most of it is caca), so when I do, I make a point to only drink the best. Now this is fairly different than the other Hommages in that era – this is a much more lacy, filigreed edition – but make no mistake this is still a heady, big wine. The nose shows a slightly animale, but a cherry syrup note adds sweetness and richness. The palate isn’t thick; this is probably the thinnest Hommage ever, but it’s still incredibly complex with a hint of funk, lots of sweet fruit, and well-balanced alcohol. (93 pts.)
  • 2000 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
    I love Sorrel’s wines, and think he is the second best producer of wine from the hill these days (no points for guessing who is first). The nose on this is absolutely stunning, with a beautiful olive tone, a bit of leather, and some polished black fruit. The palate falls off a bit; the vintage is a little tough, and so this doesn’t have the density and heft generally expected from Hermitage. There’s also a smoky tone that is a little more distracting than it should be. Nonetheless, this is a splendid syrah that I’d be inclined to drink sooner rather than later. (93 pts.)
  • 2007 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Admittedly pop and pour is probably not the best way to treat this wine, but it is what it is. Beautiful nose here, with delicate red fruit and a generous amount of perfume. The palate shows good weight, but flavourwise seems a little bit thin right now. I wouldn’t have pegged this as a wine from a ripe vintage if I had this blind; this has a light touch and delicacy that belies its birthyear. Needless to say this is a little tough to evaluate, but I am fairly confident this has the material needed for the long haul. (93 pts.)

So Bill Knapp was right about ripe Piedmont years…? [snort.gif]

Thanks for the note on the Poyeaux Adrian. 2008 was the last vintage I bought before prices went completely crazy so it’s good to know it’s starting to drink well.

Have drank a couple of 2008 Rougeard Le Clos over the last year and were very impressed with the only-in-Rougeard silky texture, the current drink-ability and complexity, as well as the seeming ability to keep in that stage (or better) for many more years.

I’ve not touched any of my 2008 Poyeux and Bourg, but also good to read the data point here.

Dammit, Adrian, I’ve been impatiently eyeing my ‘02 DPs and ‘04 Krugs. Thank for another set of great tasting notes, and for stoking my resolve to hold.

Cheers
Warren

Interesting note on the 08 Rougeard - I’ll have to check into one of mine soon but I remember not being thrilled with their 08s when they came out. Found them fragrant but a bit more tannic and green than I usually like, and I really preferred the overall balance in the 07s and the ripeness in the 09s as a contrast.

Yea I was gonna post something similar, Salil. When I had it - and yes it’s been a few years - it was not on the same plane as 2003, 2005, 2007, 09, 10 or even, surprisingly, 11. Sounds like time has brought it together.

Agreed. It’s not just Rougeard - I found a lot of other 08 reds in the Loire a bit more green and austere than I like, including the Baudry and Breton bottlings. I think the Coulaine Clos de Turpenay Chinon was one of the few '08 reds I really liked.

Also, did you omit '04 as you’re not a fan, or just no reference point? I am a huge fan of the Rougeard wines that year - the regular Clos bottling was absolutely fantastic a few years back. Drank my last, but still have a couple of the Bourgs (though based on a bottle opened earlier this year, those need a lot more time.)

Guess you won’t object to checking out a '95 Greal in October then.

Palates alike.

I don’t think that I own a single 2008 Loire CF.

I cannot recall if I’ve had an 04 Rougeard, but I definitely like some of the Joguet bottling, especially the Franc de Pied.

Did you see the recent Crush offering on Rougeard? Wow, these bottles busting $500!

I did, and nuts. I like Rougeard, but at that tab I’d much rather have a top tier right bank Bordeaux or something like a PLL with a trophy vintage premium.

Did a dinner a few months back comparing some Rougeards to Cheval Blancs. Rougeards were great, but not on the same level. At that price or thereabouts, I’m definitely not a buyer and happy to trade.

Not a fair comparison with other Loire cab francs when young. I’ve found aged Rougeard to clearly separate themselves by a couple of notches from similar vintages of other Loire cab franc. Only had 08 Le Clos recently but the TN, although about Poyeux, was on point.

Agree that 2004 is a different beast. Last had 04 Bourg in a restaurant Oct’17 and clearly very, very young. I’m storing my 04s forever.

What are you thinking by long haul on Giacosa, Adrian, have a mag that would like some feedback…

Cheep for a country squire like yourself! Bill your firm for a phone call, and, Voilà! Problem solved. neener

Brilliant!

Thanks for bringing me back down to reality. Just billed you 0.9. Cheaper than Neal.

:slight_smile:

It’s not the same level but I have a lone bottle of the 95 regular that would make for a fun side by side.

Good question. Prognostication is nobody’s strong suit but I wouldn’t consider opening a 750 of this for at least 10 years, and that’s just to check in. Other people’s bottles though…

i think the 04 krug is the best krug brut they’ve put out since 96.

Nice notes and great choices. I’m also a fan of 04 Krug {and 02DP and 07 Giacosa Barbaresco and 94 Hommage}

This.