2017 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis La Forest. Barely giving up stone fruit and melon aromatics leading to a mouthwatering, concentrated, tense mineral bath. Has a couple waves in the finish. Just a baby and in some ways a return to a leaner, classic Dauvissat La Forest compared to the 2014-16 stretch. It’s really good.
2012 Henry & Jean-Sébastien Marionnet Domaine de La Charmoise Provignage (Pre-phylloxera vines). My understanding is there is very little vineyard land now planted to Romorantin in France, even in the towns SE of Blois, and the best (I’ve had) come from Francois Cazin, Henry Marionnet, and Philippe Tessier. This is a fine, intense, old vines cuvee showing pure spiced pear aromatics and palate-staining length. The story is that these vines were planted in the 1850s. Would love to see them someday.
2010 Jean-Marc and Hugues Pavelot Savigny-Les-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode. The 2010 vintage really shows off the greatness of the site here. About half 80-year old vines, the old vines and the strong but not overripe fruit bring a creaminess and well structured generosity that makes this the best, most balanced rendition of this wine I recall. You can drink it now, but ideally it does need another 5-10+ years. Too bad I don’t own this one. This is the second 2010 Dominode that has really impressed lately, the other the Bruno Clair. And those aren’t even my favorite growers in the village…
1994 Chave Hermitage Blanc. Either this bottle was not representative (my suspicion) or I just continue to have a hard time with cellared Rhône whites. Reticent apricot/apricot pit aromas lead to a leanish but unresolved palate that is neither oxidized nor developed. I gave this many days to strut its stuff after first opening but it never really opened or evolved positively. Cellared for a long time here, it’s probably the last of my Rhône white experiments (not counting my last bottle of surely-dead 1994 Beaucastel Blanc).