TN: 2004 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl

2004 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (8/21/2019)

Opened this bottle on my wife’s birthday and paired it with grilled shrimp. We purchased this for $33 in 2005 during a visit to the winery. Recent vintages sell in the $75 range. This is one of Hirtzbergers prime sites. The vines were replanted between 1985 and 1990. In 2004, about 10% of the grapes were botrytized in this wine. The wine was aged 4 months in large Acacia barrels. This wine has developed very nicely. Light gold color. Aromas of honey and hibiscus. Lush on the palate with a fine underlying minerality. Notes of apples, pears and melons. This can still go a few more years in my opinion but this was my last bottle. 95 points.

VM

One of my three favorite Gruners. Love this wine.

I brought the 2015 to a tasting last night and thought it was a bit too ripe and full. Older vintages can be great, but in general, I tend to prefer his Riesling Singerriedel over the Grüner Honivogl…

Prager is currently making the best Grüner IMHO

Good man! 15 is too ripe in general, so probably not a surprise.

What are the other two?

Schloss Gobelsburg Renner (best value in quality Gruner IMO)
Brundlmayer Alte Reben (the one that started it all for me with the 1995)

Thread drift… I enjoy Gruner Veltliner and Hirtzberger makes one of the best, but after extensive side by side tastings during a visit to the Wachau last year, I realized that I far prefer the region’s Rieslings. In fact, I might prefer the Austrian rendition of Riesling more than any other area (with the caveat that I don’t drink GGs, given the pricing).

Given a choice, do you all like GV as much as the Rieslings?

Nope.

That’s like picking a favorite child! Love them both.

+1

I would put the FX Pichler Kellerberg up there with the best Gruners as well.

VM

Usually too much alcohol in the FX wines for my taste.

I bought 2000, 2001, and 2002 from the estate along with the Axpoint. Wonderful wines and among the best of the Wachau. I do think they need more age than the Rieslings. I believe I still have a single bottle of the Brundlmayer 1983 Heiligestein Auslese Trocken.

Damn. I thought I was doing well with the 1995.