Your thoughts on these old wines

A friend is considering bringing a couple of bottles from his cellar to dinner. When I have brought wine to celebrate my birthday with them, I bring a couple of gems from my cellar in the form of Champagne and a nicely aged Bordeaux. In a couple of weeks we are going out to celebrate his wife’s birthday and he is asking for my opinion. I have no experience with these, but my gut tells me they are just old. He maintains a passive cellar in his basement and, I believe, these were obtained at or close to release.

1979 Chateau Batailley
1980 Chateau Lascombes
1981 Beaulieu GdL
1989 Chateau Le Petit Cheval
2000 Mas de Daumas

Do you think there is something here I would want to drink?

That Batailley is or was a nice wine but it is probably on the downside of its useful existence. At the right price I’d def buy it and drink it in the next 5 weeks or so. I’ve never had a convincing 1980 bdx so I’d take a pass on the Lascombes. The Petit Cheval would be a lot of fun, again, at the right price. No view on the other 2.

These bottles are in my friend’s possession. The risk is paying corkage on a bottle that has nothing to give.

A well stored 1979 Batailley or the 1981 GdL both could be interesting, and very different in style.
The 2000 Mas de Dumas is easily the best choice for great drinking, as the others are going to be appreciating what the wines once were, rather than present condition.

I don’t know anything about the Le Petite Cheval, and have doubts about the 1980 Lascombes.

Lascombes 1980 would certainly be one to avoid. The only wine I would be tempted by is the Mas de Daumas 2000, which was a very good wine five years ago and probably still is.

Assuming the restaurant will permit it, why not ask your friend to decant at home one or more of these, take a sip and bring to the restaurant the one(s) he enjoyed?

That’s a great idea, especially as sediment and proper decanting is going to be an issue if you don’t get the wine to the restaurant days early to stand up and settle. Mas de Dumas, in particular, throws heavy sediment.

the Batailley might not be sound enough to decant long in advance. I’d do it at the restaurant (unless of course the restaurant is just next door).

We had a bunch of 1980 L’Eglise Clinet at BF 10.2 provided by Mark Golodetz. He said that 3 out of 4 bottles were horrible and one out of four was supposed to be good. The first one I opened was very good, but obviously racing against imminent death. Another 15 minutes of air and it would have keeled over, but we got it poured and tasted fast enough. Hence, don’t give up on the 1980 Lascombes, but I am not optimistic because, on the other hand, a 1975 Lascombes that I had about 10 years ago that was ex Chateau was one of the worst wines I ever had.

I agree. I would just let the restaurant know the concern about the bottle, have them open it at the table, allow you to have a taste, and if it’s not good set it aside (for now) and open another bottle. They shouldn’t charge a second corkage fee for that. If the small pour winds up improving with some air, you can always ask to have the bottle served at that time (accepting that a second corkage fee will apply)…

The 1981 BV GdLT will be interesting for educational purposes only. I’d be hunting for a very cheap price for that wine. I’ve read some CT reviews on it and they are a mixed bag but there are consistent notes showing up on many of the posts, even when scores vary wildly. Those are raisins and leather. It has been my experience that when Napa cabs fade beyond their abilities, those notes tend to show up. It typically means the bright sweet fruit is gone and the wine is really faded. This is going to sound super shitty, but older Napa cab should hold its fruit if a good wine from a good vintage. They die off if they weren’t much to begin with. 81 wasn’t a particularly renowned vintage, and this BV wasn’t particularly acclaimed by anyone. Unless you listen to Richard Jennings.

I would expect a musty, over the hill wine worth trying just to get some experience with old Napa wines. Then try some top class 84-86s. Montelena Estate, Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill, Phelps Insignia or Eisele, Spottswoode, Groth Reserve, Caymus SS, Heitz Martha’s, Togni, Dominus, or Chappellet. Stuff like that.

I’ve had some good, mostly left bank, Bordeaux from 1989, so I was thinking Petit Cheval or the 2000 Daumas, however, no one is giving that a strong endorsement.

Never had the 1989 Petit Cheval, but given the vintage and winery I would lean toward that

A friend of mine once opened a 1979 Ausone at home, thought it was gone or going, and almost threw it away. Instead, he brought it (and a backup). By the time he got to the restaurant, it was really great. Be careful making quick judgments on old wines.

I had a magnum of 1981 BV GdL earlier this year. It was good, interesting, classically styled, at the end of better maturity and starting a slow decline.

I think it’s in that range where bottles are probably going to vary some between ones that still have good fruit and energy and are amazing, and ones that are interesting but tired and fading. And there is some modest risk you get a particular bottle that’s over the hill or flawed or something.

I’d probably pick that one, and then just bring a backup. If you pull the cork and the wine is no good and you go to a backup bottle, I don’t think the restaurant will charge you a second corkage fee.

(a little) knowing your palate, Diane, that or roll the dice with the GdL

I had a couple of 750s of that '81 GdL in past 5-7 years and it was terrific. Gentle like '81s and probably as Chris describes: “good, interesting, classically styled and at the end of a better maturity.” I’d be happy to try another one.

The 2000 Mas de Daumas I haven’t had but the '95 a few years ago was terrific, and from my passive cellar bought on release.

As for the other three, my answer will vary depending on recent experience. A '79 Petit Village a while back? Shot. Same with a '75 Rauzan Segla. But a '75 Potensac the other night was lovely old Bordeaux, so I’m feeling more optimistic lately. And it was top shoulder condition, not promising I thought.

With these, I’d go 1989, 1981, 1979 in order of better to worse gamble. Good luck!

My buddy chickened out and brought a 2000 La Tour Haut Brion. He told me he was bringing a 2000 Latour and I was surprised that he had that, but the LTHB was probably better for drinking now. It was quite good with the dry aged duck at The Modern.

Diane,
I’m looking forward to reading about your champagne gems!
Warren

Wow, the next 5 weeks…that’s going to fall off the cliff soon [cheers.gif]