TN: '99 Barthod - Chambolle-Musigny - Beaux Bruns

So much for the notion that '99 Burgundies are shut down.

With the first sample sip after decanting, I was blasted with rich, ripe cherry aromas, a mix of both black and sour cherry, with a bit of earthiness at the edges. This wine was not reticent at all, then or over the course of dinner later. (It went well with a simple meal of Weisswurst with mustard and tiny new potatoes and cherry tomatoes roasted together.)

There’s a good backbone of acidity and a bit of unresolved tannin – just enough to keep this refreshing; not enough to make me think I should have waited. But the main impression is a mouthful of ripe cherries, both red and dark. Indeed, I was slightly surprised at how ripe and masculine this was, frankly. Not that I’m complaining.

There are only the earliest signs of secondary notes creeping in (hints of wet dirt and damp leaves). Instead, the main impression now is of a wine dense with fruit that has come together like a good stew does in the fridge after a day or two.

I’m in no hurry to drink my remaining bottles, because I’m sure this will develop more complexity with age, but it’s a joy now. The wine is singing, in an operatic, baritone voice. 93.7-ish for me.

(Purchased on release. Decanted an hour or so ahead of dinner and consumed slowly with a friend.)

Nice note. I’d expect at year 20 wines like this would provide immense pleasure. Great showing.

Barthod’s wine do not conform to the generally mistaken characterisation of Chambolle as light and feminine.
Any particular reason for decanting? I think it’s a mistake unless there are serious reduction or sediment issues.

A mistake for Barthod? Burgundy? Wines in general?

It might not have been necessary in this case, but I lean toward decants for serious wines unless I think they’ll be fragile. FYI, there was a decent amount of sediment here, though it wasn’t hard to pour off that as I’d had the bottle upright for 36 hours.

Nice wine.

Actually, we decanted a 2011 Barthod les cras (opened before the concert, drunk after) and this yielded a wonderful wine. But as you may say, there are many exceptions to every rule…

Burgundy. It is not traditional, which of course is not a reason by itself, but unless there is heavy reduction I never find an improvement and often a retreat, particularly with young wines.

How do you know it would not have been even better opened and poured?

Because I poured a drop before leaving… and the wine was so good…afterwards when shared with another Wine forumite.

And I know serious Burgundy lovers who generally decant, old and young.

If you don’t decant, I’ve always wondered how you avoid mucking up the last 1/4 of the bottle with sediment.

I do decant when the wine is old enough for the sediment to be troublesome.

To avoid sediment in a nondecanted bottle,
consider using a decanting cradle.