1999 Doudet-Naudin Beaune 1er Cru ‘Greves’
Light crimson color, no bricking. Aromas are fully secondary, with piquant red cherry fruit, a touch of white pepper and a lot of sous-bois. The palate is pleasingly plump, sturdy, the texture is solid but not heavy, square but somehow also feminine. The flavors have intense small red fruits, now some currant and red raspberry to go with the cherry, and also a hint of black fruit. Beaune excels at simple pleasure and this excels at being Beaune. Accompanying some porky and ducky things from Empire Chinese in Portland, the one word that defines this wine is ‘satisfying’. Rated 92.5. Fully mature, should hold this level for at least another few years… assuming provenance and storage.
Dan Kravitz