TN: Marc Hebrart, Dubreuil-Fontaine

A friend is only now getting into white Burgundy and asked me to bring a bottle to drink and discuss. I chose this one from Dubreuil-Fontaine as a very well-made and classically styled representant of a “lesser” appellation. Not a showy wine but extremely drinkable and food-friendly.

  • 2012 Marc Hébrart Champagne Grand Cru Noces de Craie Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (15.8.2019)
    Totally restrained on the nose with lime-driven fruit and a healthy dose of chalk. The mouthfeel is quite rich and opulent yet with really good energy. Markedly soil-driven and pure, while not lacking any the fruit (stonefruits, agrumes) here is comfortably in the background, as are the autolytic notes. It does not really offer any fireworks right now but drinks well with and without food and probably possesses decent potential for further development. Nothing wrong with it, just seems to be very reserved and compared to Hebrart’s other wines it is not nearly as easy to embrace.
  • 2015 P. Dubreuil-Fontaine Père & Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (15.8.2019)
    On the nose it is harmonious and understated with notes of hard lemon candy, almonds and seaspray with very well judged oak. Firm and driven on the palate with good volume yet not that much weight. Lots of quiet power in there. Again oak has been used very well, it shows mostly on the texture and as some spiciness on the finish. Solid acidity. As always required a healthy amount of air to fully come alive.

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  • 2015 P. Dubreuil-Fontaine Père & Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (1.1.2022)
    Nutty and oaky on the nose with notes of agrumes, lees, spearmint and spice. Quite mouthfilling and rich on the palate with good density and weight. Almost red wine-esque with its mouthfeel, it has a lot of structure to go with the volume. A powerful, spicy wine that is very savory in nature. Usually it is the Clos Berthet that plays the role of a mini Corton Charlemagne in the line-up but this is an usually big and bold vintage for this wine, although not without acidity. Slightly on the heady side but with a good balance still and some freshness too.

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