TN: 2016 Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion, Pessac-Leognan

I am surprised by this wine, it is not what I expected.

With a Leve 99, I was thinking blood sugar liquid sex mocha magix.

It’s not that at all. In fact, I’m surprised Jeffois is 99 on this. This is not Lascombes, Troplong Mondot, Smith Haut Lafite, Cos, and all those other wines that have gone Frankenstein on us.

This wine is quite fresh and medium weight on the palate. Finesse and silk. And ready to go. While the nose is a bit reticent, it is quite open on the palate.

I just got in the 375s that I ordered at Leve’s insistence. This has been a long-standing favorite Chateau of mine, and for a very long time, quite a sleeper. I have always adored its Cab Franc profile. I have always been surprised that Levenberg was not as big a fan of this wine, in the past, as was I. I am a big fan of 2010, 2005, 2000, 1999 and so on. And it has always been quite a value.

New ownership brought about substantial changes both in facilities and winemaking. Some new amphora techniques, whole cluster, changes in the cepage, and voila, we have a whole new wine. This is not the Les Carmes of the past, with its dusty, often herbaceous notes with crisp red fruits. This wine reeks less of Pessac-Leognan, and it is definitely leaning international in style, but still feels like Bordeaux. Polished Bordeaux, but not over the top. The palate has a broad range of red to wild dark fruits, but it’s the structure, acid and freshness that abounds. It’s interesting that I had the 2016 Ovid Hexameter a couple days ago, with its near equal cut of Cab Franc. This Les Carmes is substantially better. Less presence of new oak, no abrasive astringency. The Les Carmes still has a tangy red-fruit quality about it. Neither express Cab Franc the way I like it, with its tobacco and green streak, which is what Les Carmes expressed in the past (a Loire fan’s Bordeaux). But the Cab Franc cut clearly defines this wine, giving it lift and acid. Finishes with a crisp, dusty chocolate note.

This 2016 is better than its 2014 version, and substantially better than 2012. It seems like 2012 was more about new techniques than the materials, the 2014 is pulling it all together (I like it), and 2016 is when the wine really hits. If this is the expression of Les Carmes’ new style, this is an impressive modern Bordeaux. This is international done well. That said, I would still backfill over new purchases. The 2010 has more soul and truly expresses its terroir, while this 2016 is just flat out delicious. Chose what you like, but I want a connection in wine. A sense of place. New Bordeaux is losing that quality.

As a side note, I just grabbed more 2000 for about $100 per, which is less than 2018 futures and substantially less that current pricing on 2016. That’s a no-brainer, in my book. By the way, I went by Total Wine to grab these 2016s, and they still had 2014 on the shelves for $59.00. Not a bad purchase at all.

Sorry for the wishy-washy note here, but I am wishy-washy on this wine. The pleasure senses love it, the brain wants more.

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Your note does not ready wishy washy to me? Your note sounds like you got engaged for the right reasons, and are rationalizing why not to get married. Sounds like you love it.

First he’s in bed at Ovid, infiltrating all his senses with magic of Rolland…and now this…he quickly retreats back to his safe harbor in an attempt to regain his fleeting wine street cred…instead Bobby ends up fawning all over a Leve special…the emperor has no clothes…this is all just happening too fast…just way too fast

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But perhaps it’s the one or several night stand over the long-term marriage? I’d still go back to 2010, and not just for the price. But yes, I liked it very very much.

Ahh yes it reads like a guilty affair

I’m so disillusioned. You think you know someone . . . .

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And to think, you were still reeling from my Bedrock disclosure . . . .

Such a hooker . . . .

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Loved the insight. Thanks for the details and musings.

Thanks for the note! I went long on LCHB in '16 so this is encouraging. I don’t mind ripe fruit but tend to prefer more elegant wines most of the time.

What about aging potential and drinking window?

I get what Robert is saying. “Interesting” and “good” are not the same things, and they’re not always found together. In fact, sometimes you get more of one in exchange for less of the other.

I have always said that I value “distinction” and a “sense of place” over most other qualities in a wine. Just look at the wines that dominate my cellar and notes: Sociando, Levet, Rougeard, Juge, Lanessan, Bel Air Marquis, Baudry, Plouzeau, Gonon, et al. Making delicious wines is easy. Making wines that reflect who they are and why they are distinct, not necessarily quite so easy. Les Carmes was once that and is now just more in the delicious camp, but if I wrote my note clearly enough, it works, and works quite well.

To David’s question, I was also surprised how approachable this wine was. I am just starting to try some 2016s, initially holding off on purchases given that I am 53 and tend to prefer Bordeaux with time on them, but those that I have opened, are more approachable than expected. I assume this is an attribute of the vintage, but have not opened enough to really make that call. I bet this one is in optimum drinking in 12-15 but will go 25+. It has the structure and fruit to go that distance. If you have more than a few, crack one open. You will not be disappointed for doing so.

PS. I so miss the distinct old label. The new label is a yawner.

Given I have a limited number of dollars, delicious alone will never cut it. There are plenty of other wines which show terroir and taste good at the same price, Haut Bailly for one. I have not tasted the 2016, but have tasted both the 2014 and 2015. They fit your description, a certain richness but anonymity at the same time. Not surprising with the 2015, but a 2014 should show its origins, and didn’t. I wrote off the chateau from those two tastings.

Just what I was thinking. But, to be fair, as I understand it as some people get older their palate gets less sensitive and they can no longer taste the nuance in wine. They start going to richer and richer wines as those are the ones they can still taste. [bleh.gif] [oops.gif] [help.gif]

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Well said shan. I would have said skanky hot, but that’s crass!

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I don’t know. While Robert was selling his soul (again), I was enjoying a 90 La Louviere, which was correct and proper and adheres to all known regulatory requirements for the AFWE. And I loved it.

Someone has to maintain standards around this place.

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I know, I know. Scandalous.

In my defense, I went from right coast to left coast, delirious from the time differential and lack of humidity, no batteries or cell phones. So confusing.

I am beyond happy you liked the wine because you bought it on my recommendation. And the wine is just great! As for typicity, the wine is pure Pessac Leognan. Like all wines, it will come through as it ages.

FWIW, it is a strong possibility that the 2018 is going to be even better. It is similar in style, but texturally, it is richer, silkier and more complex. Learn all about Les Carmes Haut Brion, The Complete Guide

So, now you know you can always TIL, “Trust in Leve!” champagne.gif

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'18?..Jeff we prefer our Bordeaux 13.5%alc or less

Marc I have some 16.5% Martinelli for you and the boys, at our next tasting. It will be our starter, on the rocks, with those big ice balls you like.

I had the 08 Haut Bailly recently and it fits this description too, for my palate. Delicious and very very good, but lacking in a little soul. Maybe it gains that with more time, I dunno.