1997 Felsina Fontalloro

I started collecting Tuscan wines in 1995. A visit around that time to Felsina really grabbed my soul for pure sangiovese. Other wineries I often visited were Fontodi, Montevertine, Retenanno, Ama, Cafaggio, Scalette and Rampolla that were also focused on making the best pure sangiovese possible. 1997 was a magical vintage for the Chianti Classico region. I bought a lot of those wines. Many people said these pure sangiovese “Super Tuscan” wines would not age, including the Brunelli. Well I can say that these wines have not only survived but have aged beautifully.

1997 Felsina Fontalloro - 100% sangiovese

No bricking at all. Deep pure red color. Red rich fruit nose with tobacco and hints of spice. Fully resolved tannin yet there is enough grip to give it solid structure. Silky palate and long giving finish. Aged sangiovese just does not get better than this.

Great note. I’m a big fan for Fontalloro, though you have to age it to let it uncoil. I think at least 10 years from the vintage year, give or take.

I’ve had more mixed experiences with the '97 Tuscans. A '97 Felsina Rancia a couple of years ago was hard as nails – all tannins and no fruit or pleasure. And I’ve had some Brunellos that were too alcoholic (Il Poggione and some others a friend served some years back).

I had the same experience with the first two of my three 97 Rancia, maybe 2-3 years ago. Hard, black, no joy.

I agree with you on the Rancia (not just in '97, but to me, in pretty much every year, although some drink okay on release beyond being atypically rich for Sangiovese, and even Bordeaux-like in structure), but I have had some very elegant and balanced '97 Tuscans…most noteworthy being the '97 Fontodi Flaccianello.

I haven’t actually had the '97 Felsina Fontalloro, but I often find that it shows well many years before the Rancia. I am actually skeptical whether many vintages of Rancia will actually ever show well. I would be even more sceptical (and downright cynical) if not for a 3L bottle of the 1985 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva (i.e. the “normal” Riserva) that I had just about 2 years ago, which was not only shockingly good (and on a par with any Felsina wine I’ve ever had), but improved for hours in the opened bottle. That bottle makes me think that the Rancia really could potentially just take many, many years to shine (although as I say, I’m still somewhat skeptical).

I agree that 1997 is/was a superb vintage for many Tuscan wines. And its true that Fontalloro is often on a slightly faster evolutionary track than the Rancia. But the real deal is actually the CCR IMO. It is often almost as good as the Fontalloro and Rancia but not as dismissive as the other two labels can be but ages almost as good. At least this is my point of view.

BTW. If you haven’t had a bottle of Poggio Valente from Le Pupille so far you should taste this Sangiovese from the Maremma. Fantastic wine and value IMO and doesn’t shut down hard as Rancia i.e.

Personally I’d change that to say that for me the CCR is much better than the Rancia which I gave up on buying ages ago.

I poured the 10 CCR and Fontalloro double blind as a flight recently. Only Frank posted notes, but as always, a good read.

Both showed very well, the CCR more into its prime of the two, and mostly I think it’s just a matter of which style you prefer.

this conversation is interesting to me because I’ve loved every bottle of Rancia Ive had, and all have been younger than 15 years: most younger than 8. makes me wonder if I’ve just been lucky or if someday I’m gonna have a different CCR and just think its unbelievable. lol

The 2004 Rancia drank great on release and never really shut down. I went through a 6 pack by 2012 and every bottle was fantastic. Maybe that vintage was an outlier?

In January this year, a friend opened a 1988 Fontalloro. It was in a great place - completely mature but not at all in decline. Loads of dried cherry on the palate, just delicious. Really, I love Felsina’s stuff across the board (except maybe the Maestro Raro, which has never wowed me).

Exactly my experience with a 1988 Fontalloro. Wish I still had some bottles.

Always a solid!

Opened a 2010 CCR followed by a 2006 Rancia for some non geek wine drinkers during my neighbors retirement party as a pilot. The Rancia was more intense, defined and provocative, while the CCR was at a more plush, round, versatile, and readily enjoyable. CCR was the hands down favorite.

I do not buy Rancia that often but hold a total of eight different vintages from 1985 to 2013. Evert time I buy a new vintage I try one bottle and is almost always surprised how hard and shut I find the wine. But I keep buying them because I absolutely adore the wine when it reaches 25-30 years of age. Last bottle I opened was a 1985 that was just great and to me mature but not in a decline. The 1988 will take a little longer to reach the same place.
Given my preference and my age of 54 2013 was my last vintage.

Jürgen, I had a bottle of the 1988 CCR in 2013 and it was probably the best fully mature Tuscan wine I’ve ever had.

Jürgen, I had a bottle of the 1988 CCR in 2013 and it was probably the best fully mature Tuscan wine I’ve ever had.

.