TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

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Charlie Carnes
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TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#1 Post by Charlie Carnes » August 5th, 2019, 3:40 pm

  • 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC (8/5/2019)
    This is from two bottles. Pop and pour. If you haven't tasted Carricante, which I had not, you might need a slight adjustment. At first I was picking up things I liked that were close to my experiences, but were slightly different. All of these flavors and perceptions really came together for the last bottle and a half. These notes are the finished perceptions: The wine is slightly aromatic, with cistern and scratched glass perceptions, and maybe a hint of Meyer lemon peel, very nice. Also something green, like a broken citrus branch. I loved the taste and mouth feel. The fruit was in a very good way, and in a cool toned way something akin to a more standard lemon, like a Harvey, sour sweet, and pungent. It as also crunchy and pithy, but it stayed cool and fluid. There was a light bittersweet chewiness to the lemon and yellow fruit. There were spices, but I cannot compare to say Riesling or Gewurtz., it was like a broken new tangerine leaf. I drank this outside, and shared with friends, who all, including me, wanted more as the bottle opened and warmed. I will be buying more of this if offered! (92 pts.)
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#2 Post by Markus S » August 5th, 2019, 5:20 pm

While I haven't had the Aeris wines, I had had my bit of carricante and it makes for a pretty unique experience. I would say like a volcanic Muscadet on steroids or a Galician white but different. They are very savory.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#3 Post by Chris Seiber » August 5th, 2019, 5:35 pm

It's an excellent wine. Light yet intense and complex.

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#4 Post by Charlie Carnes » August 5th, 2019, 5:46 pm

Markus S wrote:
August 5th, 2019, 5:20 pm
While I haven't had the Aeris wines, I had had my bit of carricante and it makes for a pretty unique experience. I would say like a volcanic Muscadet on steroids or a Galician white but different. They are very savory.
Great descriptions! I completely forgot to mention in my note that I drank it with a 2013 Do Ferreiro Albariño Rías Baixas Cepas Vellas, an amazing wine, and while different they shared some great similarities!
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#5 Post by Charlie Carnes » August 5th, 2019, 5:46 pm

Chris Seiber wrote:
August 5th, 2019, 5:35 pm
It's an excellent wine. Light yet intense and complex.
Perfectly said.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#6 Post by Marcus Dean » August 5th, 2019, 5:47 pm

what would be the best food match?

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#7 Post by Charlie Carnes » August 5th, 2019, 5:54 pm

Marcus, we were standing eating heavy hors d'oeuvres with some Italian influence. But they were all over the place. My buddy got promotion from Airbus 320 to the 330 captain, so big celebration! No other berserkers present, but tons of winos none the less.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#8 Post by M. Dildine » August 5th, 2019, 6:14 pm

Chris Seiber wrote:
August 5th, 2019, 5:35 pm
It's an excellent wine. Light yet intense and complex.
Nothing quite like it. Unique and exceptional.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#9 Post by William Kelley » August 5th, 2019, 6:24 pm

When I all too briefly covered Rhys for TWA, I tasted this and remember doing some mental gymnastics to get in the right frame of mind to approach it after their Chardonnays from Anderson Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains. Certainly a delicious wine and will be very interested to see how the project unfolds.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#10 Post by Al Osterheld » August 5th, 2019, 8:21 pm

Carricante also seems to have an interesting waxy textural component, a little reminiscent of Chenin but not as strong.

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#11 Post by Alan Rath » August 5th, 2019, 8:34 pm

Al Osterheld wrote:
August 5th, 2019, 8:21 pm
Carricante also seems to have an interesting waxy textural component, a little reminiscent of Chenin but not as strong.

-Al
I get that as well, particularly with a little age. I drink a modest amount of Albarino, and Rhy's Carricante has some of the character of old vine Albarino, some of the richness of a good white burgundy, and some of the wax and intensity of good Chenin.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#12 Post by Justin S » August 5th, 2019, 8:37 pm

Always wanted to try this wine, but it’s just about more expensive than any other carricante coming out of Italy. Wonder if those that own this wine have compared to the best Italian producers.
Marcus Dean wrote:
August 5th, 2019, 5:47 pm
what would be the best food match?
I love grilled seafood with it. Carricante tends to have a salty lemony flavor to it.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#13 Post by Al Osterheld » August 5th, 2019, 8:41 pm

Yeah, I also think Carricante shows salinity, at least in the better regions of Mount Etna. It will be interesting to see how it performs in California.

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#14 Post by Alan Rath » August 5th, 2019, 8:51 pm

Kevin had a bottle of the California Carricante open at the last pickup. It was really good.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#15 Post by Al Osterheld » August 5th, 2019, 8:53 pm

Always wanted to try this wine, but it’s just about more expensive than any other carricante coming out of Italy. Wonder if those that own this wine have compared to the best Italian producers.
It is a wine coming out of Italy, made by the former winemaker and vineyard use for one of the top producers.

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#16 Post by Justin S » August 5th, 2019, 8:55 pm

Yes. I know it is from Italy, just wondering how it compared to other Etna producers given the top of market pricing.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#17 Post by Marcus Dean » August 5th, 2019, 9:09 pm

Justin S wrote:
August 5th, 2019, 8:37 pm
Always wanted to try this wine, but it’s just about more expensive than any other carricante coming out of Italy. Wonder if those that own this wine have compared to the best Italian producers.
Marcus Dean wrote:
August 5th, 2019, 5:47 pm
what would be the best food match?
I love grilled seafood with it. Carricante tends to have a salty lemony flavor to it.
YUM, great plan

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#18 Post by Monica Larner » August 7th, 2019, 12:42 am

I just love Carricante and just researched and published a long profile of the grape a few weeks back. Most liken it to Riesling but there are those who find similarities with Furmint of Tokaji. But there's nothing like it on those volcanic soils of Etna. The wines are so precise and focused.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#19 Post by Dennis Atick » August 7th, 2019, 3:18 am

Thanks for the note Charlies.
The 2016 just got raves in the Vinuous report that released yesterday. Vintage and this wine specifically.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#20 Post by Scott Brunson » August 7th, 2019, 5:47 am

We love this wine. We drank a '17 a few weeks ago.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#21 Post by Russ Williams » August 7th, 2019, 5:57 am

2016 and 2017??
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#22 Post by Kevin Sidders » August 7th, 2019, 7:43 am

I visited Sicily with several clients a few weeks ago, and hit some of the top producers of Etna Bianco (and Superiore) -- Benanti, Biondi, Terre Nere, I Vigneri, Fessina. One of the highlights was tasting with Salvo Foti, who coordinates the I Vigneri group and is a consultant to Aeris/Rhys on its Carricante-related projects. He is kind of the Godfather of the resurgence of Etna wines, and the grapes for the 14+15 Aeris vintages were sourced from vineyards in Etna Banco Superiore on which he consults. I believe the 2016 Aeris vintage we tasted with him is the first from the vineyard that Aeris/Rhys rehabilitated in the heart of Etna Bianco Superiore. Interestingly, he also shared with us a sample of the 2018 Carricante from the vineyard they recently planted in Sonoma, which I believe is the first vintage from that project -- pretty tasty stuff and I'm quite excited to follow the evolution of that project.

I came away from our trip super excited about Etna Bianco in general, and it's been interesting to see the WSJ, TWA and Vinous all issue articles/reviews of the wines in just the past couple of weeks...
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#23 Post by Peter Petersen » August 7th, 2019, 7:51 am

I've had mixed experiences with the '14. We loved the first bottle my wife and I had, the second was with other Italian whites followed by Barolo and was matched poorly, the third was as I was ready to order the '15 and my wife said: "Don't buy this". That bottle was OK, but not $60 OK.
Hopefully, I'm still on the list for the release of '16 as well as the forthcoming Etna Rosso (love those wines).

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#24 Post by Frank Murray III » August 7th, 2019, 7:53 am

For the discussion here, I tried both of the wines below week before last. The 2017 was in shiner, if I recall correctly.
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My WOTY candidates for 2019:
2014 Marie Courtin Eloquence Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
2017 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Occidental Ridge SC PN
2017 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Platt SC PN
2017 Kutch Pinot Noir SC PN
2009 Roederer Cristal Brut

My best wines of 2018:
2017 Kutch Falstaff Sonoma Coast PN
2012 Marguet La Grande Ruelle Ambonnay

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#25 Post by Robert Love » August 7th, 2019, 8:57 am

I've had a poor experience with the 2014. Three out of four bottles were advanced. (The one correct bottle was beautiful, so I know what this wine is capable of.)

Looking at CT, even many TNs that do not call the wine out as flawed don't sound right, citing apple flavors and a heavy/oily texture. My correct bottle showed citrus and flowers with a really appealing saline minerality, no apple or oxidative aromas at all. While it did have a waxy texture you sometimes see in Carricante, overall the impression was one of a crisp, lighter wine.

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#26 Post by Scott Brunson » August 7th, 2019, 3:31 pm

Drinking the red (Nerello) right now.
Freaking delicious.
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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#27 Post by Steven Dilley » August 7th, 2019, 4:32 pm

Robert Love wrote:
August 7th, 2019, 8:57 am
I've had a poor experience with the 2014. Three out of four bottles were advanced. (The one correct bottle was beautiful, so I know what this wine is capable of.)

Looking at CT, even many TNs that do not call the wine out as flawed don't sound right, citing apple flavors and a heavy/oily texture. My correct bottle showed citrus and flowers with a really appealing saline minerality, no apple or oxidative aromas at all. While it did have a waxy texture you sometimes see in Carricante, overall the impression was one of a crisp, lighter wine.
Same here... one great bottle, one oxidized.

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#28 Post by Diane Kessler » August 13th, 2019, 9:28 am

Steven Dilley wrote:
August 7th, 2019, 4:32 pm
Robert Love wrote:
August 7th, 2019, 8:57 am
I've had a poor experience with the 2014. Three out of four bottles were advanced. (The one correct bottle was beautiful, so I know what this wine is capable of.)

Looking at CT, even many TNs that do not call the wine out as flawed don't sound right, citing apple flavors and a heavy/oily texture. My correct bottle showed citrus and flowers with a really appealing saline minerality, no apple or oxidative aromas at all. While it did have a waxy texture you sometimes see in Carricante, overall the impression was one of a crisp, lighter wine.
Same here... one great bottle, one oxidized.
2 out of 3 oxidized for me. I haven't opened the third.

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#29 Post by Peter Petersen » August 13th, 2019, 2:46 pm

Scott Brunson wrote:
August 7th, 2019, 3:31 pm
Drinking the red (Nerello) right now.
Freaking delicious.
The Aeris? Did I miss an offering?

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#30 Post by Jim Brennan » August 13th, 2019, 4:05 pm

Aeris Hillside offering was today.

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#31 Post by Sebastian C. » August 14th, 2019, 6:51 pm

Diane Kessler wrote:
August 13th, 2019, 9:28 am
Steven Dilley wrote:
August 7th, 2019, 4:32 pm
Robert Love wrote:
August 7th, 2019, 8:57 am
I've had a poor experience with the 2014. Three out of four bottles were advanced. (The one correct bottle was beautiful, so I know what this wine is capable of.)

Looking at CT, even many TNs that do not call the wine out as flawed don't sound right, citing apple flavors and a heavy/oily texture. My correct bottle showed citrus and flowers with a really appealing saline minerality, no apple or oxidative aromas at all. While it did have a waxy texture you sometimes see in Carricante, overall the impression was one of a crisp, lighter wine.
Same here... one great bottle, one oxidized.
2 out of 3 oxidized for me. I haven't opened the third.
Did you get them replaced?
C0rr3@

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#32 Post by Diane Kessler » August 14th, 2019, 7:19 pm

Sebastian C. wrote:
August 14th, 2019, 6:51 pm
Diane Kessler wrote:
August 13th, 2019, 9:28 am
Steven Dilley wrote:
August 7th, 2019, 4:32 pm


Same here... one great bottle, one oxidized.
2 out of 3 oxidized for me. I haven't opened the third.
Did you get them replaced?
Will be replaced in the Fall.

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Re: TN: 2014 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore (Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC)

#33 Post by Matt Snow » August 16th, 2019, 12:26 pm

That's interesting -- not supposed to be oxidative? The bottle I tasted definitely was, although not unenjoyable. Having never tasted the grape before, I imagined it might simply be part of the experience.

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