Just getting home from a very short but fun 2 days in Nor Cal. We made just two stops, and decided on the final day to just slow down and recover before we flew home. 36 wines over 2 days was a lot for my old bones and we needed Saturday AM to recover before going to SFO for an early afternoon flight.
On Thursday, Brig Campbell and I flew to SFO, grabbed a car and jammed over to see Jeff Brinkman at Rhys. I have made this visit for a # of years now, a real opportunity each year to dig into the new vintage, as well as look at some of the new side projects. Also joining us was Berserkers Alan Rath and Mike Dildine, along with another couple who are not part of the WB craziness.
Jeff and I decided to taste the Pinots first, then take a break, then finish with the whites. I liked this format for a change. We did not taste Alesia this time, instead focusing on all the Rhys designated wines, plus a new Chenin Blanc from Pajaro, plus the new 15 Aeris from Italy, alongside the 2017 Carricante from Centennial Mountain. We also tasted the new Bearwallow BdB sparkler, which was the wine we kicked off with before we started the reds. For me, the standouts, and clearly crushing it, were the Alpine and Horsehoe red and whites, along with the new Porkie. Those wines were dialed in and show for me the class, finesse, and depth of what these plots are producing these days. Balance, now alcohol, very little wood (if any) perceived. This is the kind of wine I want to continue to pursue and Rhys is just hammering away at delivering this kind of quality. And contrary to perhaps how these wines may be misperceived still even today, as both Alpine and Shoe PNs are fully destemmed. Yes, Home, Skyline and Swan Terrace still are 100% whole cluster, the SCM vineyards are now, to include the new one, Mt Pajaro (a tiny bit of stems). So, my conclusion is that like any project and effort, the way forward changes as the best practices are discovered, then adaptedâthis is the SCM PNs for me. And to my liking, and on this visit, I did prefer these over the Skyline and Swan Terrace.
A thanks to Jeff for taking the time to see us and for allowing us to journey through the vintage. My notes follow below, and will be joined later by a post from Brig, who also has notes and his usual story to add. I will add my Kutch notes from our visit to see Jamie shortly.
JULY 2018 RHYS VISITâTASTE THE 2017S AND SOME NEW STUFF - Rhys Estate (At The Winery) (7/26/2019)
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2015 Rhys Blancs de Blancs Bearwallow Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
Tasted at the winery. The bottle we tasted was hand disgorged and dosaged, as part of the dosage blending trials for the upcoming 2015 disgorgement. Neutral wood, around 13% ABV. Aromas of toast and some light lees. The core of this is about acidity, a brisk lemon. Green banana, orange/citrus and then closing with lime into a finish with good length. The texture here is round and just fuller in tone as compared to say the Mousse Les Varosses Anecdote I had this week from Cuisles, which was also Bdb. I am cognizant too of the risk here in trying to see a new project like this one from the context of Champagne. These are not the same wines, nor is CA=Champagne. With that context in front of me, what this first effort of Bearwallow shows is a wine that is brisker, with terrific acidity, expressing a CA feel. Exciting to see Rhys take on a project like this and work to find the inspiration of Champagne into the context of CA. -
2017 Rhys Chardonnay Bearwallow Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
Tasted at the winery. 12.8 ABV, with 15-20% new wood. Spicy, yellow fruits and some flint, along with green apple that is lightly candied. Lemony citrus with an intense finish, along with some lime zest. -
2017 Rhys Chardonnay Mt. Pajaro Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Tasted at the winery. 12.7% ABV, with 15-20% new wood. Lime, honeyed lightly, with bright green apple flavors. This seemed overall to me gentle and approachable (akin to the 2017 MP PN which we also tasted). Spicy, with a touch of caramel into the finish. -
2017 Rhys Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Tasted at the winery. 12.8% ABV, with 15-20% new wood. Yellow apple, generous and balanced. Spicy pear, and then my notes evolve to say lots of spicy apple in the finish that is wrapped in mineral and a honeyed quality. Tasted next to the 2017 Shoe Chard, and it has the same intensity of the Shoe, but it adds a richness that the Shoe doesnât show for me. Splitting hairs here, as both wines were excellent, but I just found the Shoe to be a little better, more lasered for me. -
2017 Rhys Chardonnay Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Tasted at the winery. 12.5% ABV, with 15-20% new wood. My notes are starred for the wine, and I liked this best of the 4 Chards, for sure. Lemon is the lead flavor with a persistent core of intense citrus that is married with a wet stone quality that is intense, long and in my notes the words âpainfully concentratedâ. Take that for a positive, as this was lights out good. Thinking back, I have to say this vintage of Shoe Chard really struck me as one of the best I have ever tasted from Rhys. Outstanding. -
2017 Rhys Chenin Blanc Mt. Pajaro Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Tasted at the winery. Peach, green apple, some tropicals, spicy honey, mineral. Chenin from SCM? This was terrific. Will want to get some when this finally comes out, but if I recall from Jeffâs comments yesterday, there is not going to be a lot of it to go aroundâŠ150 cases? -
2015 Aeris Wines Etna Bianco Superiore - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
Tasted at the winery from shiner. This is a little prickly, with intense acidity, structure and minerality/wet stone. This was good, kind of electric in quality with all of the stuff going on. -
2017 Aeris Wines Carricante - USA, California
Tasted at the winery from shiner (bottled this past April). This to me tastes fuller in tone as compared to the 2015 Aeris Mt Etna that was alongside it. Itâs the 2017âs palate, which seems broader, even oily/suave with honey? The 2017 version (which is grown here, on Centennial Mountain in Sonoma County) shows plenty of lemon rind, grapefruit yet has the same tight, intense finish as the 2015 from Italy. -
2016 Rhys Syrah Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Tasted at the winery. 12.7% ABV. 100% whole cluster, cask raised. Some dried purple flower, potpourri and cracked pepper. Cherry with a distinct blue note, which comes through with more air and tasting.
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2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Bearwallow Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
Tasted at the winery. 13.8% ABV, fully destemmed and no new wood. Aromas of pepper and spice, maraschino cherry (which might sound pretentiousâŠmy point is a sweeter, more luscious cherry but the specific reference is what came to mind when the wine hit my palate). My notes also show the word âpureâ underlined, and a reference to sexy, finishing with some tannin to give some structure. Overall, this was generous, juicy, and as we talked about around the table, the vintage in this year really given Bear flashier, pure tone. Very goodâŠon retaste today from the leftoverâs from yesterdayâs bottle, the spicy quality is really presenty, along with a purple fruit sensation. Terrific. -
2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Porcupine Hill - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
Tasted at the winery. 13.8% AV, destemmed and no new wood. My notes have a star next to the Porkie, which was one of my wines of the day. I got a cool rose petal aroma, just a lovely floral tone. We tasted this next to the Bear (of which Porkie is a special section in Bear), so let me use the side by side for context. The Porkie is less sexy, more focused and intense as compared to the Bear. The cherry core of the Porkie is leaner, showing more acidity, along with cedar and loam. Terrific vintage for Porkie. -
2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Home Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay
Tasted at the winery. 13.3% ABV. 100% whole cluster, 20-25% new wood. Plenty of structure here, with a darker cherry quality, alongside a elegant frame. For me, this showed a rocky quality, along with blueberry, giving the cherry the darker edge. The acidity too is bright, along with some earth. -
2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Mt. Pajaro Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Tasted at the winery. This is the first release of MP as a single vineyard wine (in 2016, it all went into the Alesia SCM PN). 13.6% ABV, virtually destemmed with 20-25% new wood. Floral nose, I really dug just smelling it in the glass. Red fruited, spicy with a zesty/zingy quality. Medium wight, moderate complexity and approachable, yet enough spicy cherry to liven it all up. Drinking well for me. -
2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Tasted at the winery. 12.9% ABV, 100% whole cluster, 25% new wood. Gorgeous aromas of spice, lifting out of the glass much like the 2017 Porkie did for me, too. Plush, juicy, yet with density with a lot of lovely red/blue under all the density. Some herb comes into the finish, along with the same cherry, added by red apple and even a little meaty/savory thing. This has structure, length, density and really everything Skyline can be. -
2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Tasted at the winery. Like the 2017 Porkie from earlier in the tasting, I have the Alpine starred in my notes too, as one of my wines of the day. 12.9% ABV fully destemmed and 30% new wood. When first poured, this had a distinct pinot funk to it, which blew off with swirling. While the aromatics seemed shy, with some light spice, what is banging on this wine is the palate impressions. As with the 2017 Bear, this also came across to me as extremely pure in tone. My notes say âimmediate sensation of purityâ. The balance here is exquisite, which isnât a word I use all that often in my normal vocabulary but this is what flashed for me when I tasted the wine. Blue and red fruits, even a little red apple too on retaste, with a bit of vanilla. Juicy, balanced by the terrific acidity. Excellent vintage for Alpine (and if you see my other note for the 2017 Horseshoe, that wine too kicked ass, and these plots are not very far apartâboth wines excelled for me in 2017). -
2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Swan Terrace - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Tasted at the winery. 12.5% ABV, 100% whole cluster, 25% new wood. Like with many of the 2017 Rhys PNs we tasted during the visit, there is a floral aroma to the wine. In this vintage of Swan, my sense is the stems are doing some work and imparting their presence. The wine has a density and darkness (not color but the sensation it creates for me), with the structure of the wine evidentâcoiled with what my notes say âsome heftâ. Herb, savory, intense meaty thing in the finish. I liked this but I have to say at this point in the curve, I prefer the 2017 Alpine more (for those who may not know, Swan Terrace is part of Alpine, a different section and exposure of the vineyard that is made separately)âŠas a follow-up, I had the leftover wine in bottle from our visit yesterday and so I poured the last 2 ounces this morning for retaste. The color here is dark, a ruby with light maroon. There is so much stuffing and texture here, and it doesnât yet feel married with the fruit. What I believe would be accurate to say is power and raw materialâwood, stems and fruitâall present but not harmonized. I suspect this wine is going to live a while, and knowing the community here, I donât think people are going to rush off and open bottles of this in the first few years anyway. -
2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Tasted at the winery. 12.7% ABV, fully destemmed, 35% new wood. Has a little bit of the pinot funk nose that was also present in the 2017 Alpine, which too blew off with swirling. This Shoe is terrific. Juicy with plenty of red fruit that is zesty, possessing also the same fantastic purity of the Alpine. Spice with a rocky note. Alan Rath was seated next to me and he called the red fruit âstrawberryâ, which I thought was an excellent descriptor. Ultimately, this is in a tie for me with the Alpine for the purity, and for my PM wine of the day, with this Shoe showing a zestier, strawberry fruit. Excellent stuffâŠon retaste this morning from last nightâs leftover bottle, there is some added cranberry.
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