I have often found that it is just when seemingly at the point of maximum pessimism about a region, or a specific grape, that a bottle tends to come along and knock me back into a state of oenophilic madness.
Such was the case when on Saturday night, after dinner, I opened a 2004 Ornellaia, with an old friend and a big hunk of pecorino.
I am certainly not the first to notice the increased homogeneity, ripeness and, frankly, blandness, of so many “super Tuscans” (and of course there are many many exceptions), but lately it seems every one I have tasted has been the worst of the New World, with an Italian accent.
In any event, the Ornellaia was just plain beautiful. Rather big but also quite elegant, with a plush mouthfeel and loads of sediment (I didn’t decant – my bad – as the bottle decision was rather spontaneous) and the slightest Tuscan herbal element. Served blind, my very astute friend noted a cabernet base, and also made the point that “it doesn’t taste Cali, but neither does it taste like bordeaux”. Within maybe 15 minutes he concluded it was Italian and actually guessed Ornellaia. Impressive. And I couldn’t have said it better myself.
This bottle way outclassed a 2004 Sassicaia I had not too long ago. FWIW the small glass remaining in the recorked bottle was outstanding the next night as well, with rib eye steak. It tasted almost exactly like it did the night before. 95