I just returned from an awesome three week road trip in France and might at some point post something on the Travel Forum but since that may either take a lot of time or never actually happen I thought I would write shortly about the wines tasted/enjoyed during the trip, somewhat in the style of Jim Cowan’s ‘Impressions’. We mostly stayed in the countryside and the wine lists varied from incredible to non-existent which meant that there were both fine and less fine wines.
Henri Germain Bourgogne Côte-d’Or Blanc 2017: The epitome of brightness and clarity on the nose with notes of lemon, pineapple, smoke and appropriate oak. On the palate quite rich yet even more so very spry and fresh. Full of awesome tangy fruit. Great energy, huge drinkability.
Herout Cidre Cotentin Biologique Cuvée Tradition Brut 2017: Very much on the clean side with a soft mousse, refreshing acidity and great balance. Not the driest of dry, just very pleasant overall.
Sébastien Brunet Vouvray Arpent Sec 2017: Quite rich and mouthfilling yet with a markedly savory/salty character. Very much waxy and firm when it comes to the mouthfeel. High acidity with some nice bitterness. Even when it comes up in temperature it never loses its focus nor drive.
Henri Bourgeois Quincy Haute Victoire 2018: Undeniably a very solid Loire SB that would easily pass for a Sancerre. Very bright and articulate with an airy mouthfeel and great acidity. Quite minerally with a beautiful note of white flowers. Practically weightless. A surprise.
Joël Taluau Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil L’Expression 2017: The flavor profile is that of a solid Loire CF but the texture is not. Just too polished and soft, there is no edge nor any structure.
Alain Brumont Madiran Torus 2015: Despite some early unwanted vanilla on the nose this was very much what what I hoped it to be: robust, heady, structured and comforting. In other words perfect for the perfect Cassoulet we had with it in the Armagnac region. Could be that back home I would not enjoy this as much but that’s the way it goes.
Société Cooperative Castelmaure Corbières Au Village 2016: A fresh, easy-drinking that was not very compelling but turned out to be a very versatile food-wine. Forgettable but serviceable.
Clos Saint Sebastien Collioure Blanc Empreintes 2018: Salty on the nose with a great combination of volume and freshness on the palate. Really delicious and drinkable with a wonderful southern character.
Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils Menetou-Salon La Vigne au Paul 2017: Racy and structured, very tasty and promising with no overt fruitiness but not vegetal either.
Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py 2017: Fantastically well rounded with good concentration and energy - very savory and quite complex. A superstar already for my palate.
Domaine Hauvette Les Baux-de-Provence Le Roucas 2017: Unexpectedly tight as a drum but plenty of interest here. Savory and structured with some garrigue action, definitely not fruit-forward.
Domaine Si Le Vin (Sylvain Badel) St. Joseph Promesse 2017: One might expect a St Jo of this age to taste mostly of primary fruit but not the case. This is all about structure, texture and soil while not lacking any on the fruit side of things. A very exciting find, great value.
Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003: A late-release, apparently had just come from the château. Big, muscular, meaty, wildly animalistic and unfortunately very hot. I loved the 2000 vintage but this is not for me.
Domaine Richaud Cairanne Cuvée l’Ebrescade 2016: A very approachable and friendly, well-made red that had a relaxedness about itself if not that much in the way of complexity. Perhaps not a wine that screams.
Jean-Claude Masson Vin de Savoie Apremont Cuvée Lisa 2016: Fresh as a daisy with superb brightness to it. Full of savory white fruits, lifted up by really refreshing acidity. This is just the stereotypical ”Fondue wine” one might expect it to be but who’s to say there is anything wrong with that? Not as serious as Masson’s cuvée La Bise but when it comes to bang for the buck this really delivers.
Domaine de Valdition Vin de Pays des Alpilles Tradition Blanc 2018: No actual recollection of this modest Provencal blend of 8 southern varieties except that we had no problem emptying the bottle and it fit the restaurant’s modern, fresh cooking very well. At its local price I would have no problem stocking it for the warm summer days.
Maison Leroy Bourgogne 2003: Somewhat developed on the nose with ripe, bright cherry fruit, a hint of truffle and some appropriate oak. Rich on the palate as expected yet without any heat nor overt ripeness (the label claims 12,5% ABV). Excellent structure. Most definitely does not feel like a 16-year old wine but at the same is now very pleasurable and food-friendly.
Clos du Rouge Gorge IGP Côtes Catalanes 2015: A supremely elegant Grenache dominated blend that shows a very soft winemaker’s touch and has good dark fruit very much of the savory kind. No heat, no heaviness whatsoever.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2016: On the nose salty, smoky and intense with lemon oil kind of a fruit profile. Extremely bright and articulate, fantastic. On the palate is tight and focused, ultra-chiselled. Bone dry with laser-like acidity, super firm and direct. Salty and spicy all the way, the fruit is an afterthought. Impeccably balanced with a gloriously long finish.
Jean-Marc Roulot l’Abricot: Pure greatness. Just the nose alone is worth at least twice the tariff. My gf commented that the smell is that of a very expensive perfume. It was also smooth as heck on the palate and paired perfectly with the a creamy apricot dessert.
Domaine Hauvette Les Baux-de-Provence Cuvée Cornaline 2011: A markedly savory wine with nice structure and strong garrigue note. Not a big wine but has plenty if charm, drinking very well right now and could improve.
Domaine Tempier Bandol 2015: Obviously a warm year wine and a very young at that. No signs of development really and not one bit animale but at the same time not as polished as something like Suffrene. Perfectly fine right now and a well made wine but not screaming Bandol yet.
Boeckel Riesling Grand Cru Wiebelsberg 2015: A new one for me, definitely a pleasant acquaintance. Quite a bit of volume with some botrytis, yet with good delineation and drive. Not heavy nor too ripe, this possesses enough freshness and stays on the dry side. Quite attractive.
Domaine Taupenot-Merme St. Romain 2013: A perfectly decent White Burgundy with good balance, freshness and energy. The oak is very well judged and while obvious does not take over. Finishes clean and pleasant.
Valentin Zusslin Eau-de-vie Framboise d’Alsace: This is not my scene at all but this had the most pure and strong raspberry on the nose and at 45 % ABV it was quite drinkable.
Domaine Valentin Zusslin Riesling Grand Cru Pfingstberg 2012: Aromatic from the get-go, it took a fairly long time to really come to its own. Once it did it was a superb example of an Alsatian Grand Cru Riesling. Honeyed on the nose with ripe notes of apple and peach. Fairly rich on the palate with fantastic acidity. Very clean and fresh on the finish. Not much botrytis in sight except perhaps a hint on the nose. Many Alsatians seem get quite ripe and concentrated yet this one manages to stay fairly spry and tight. The drinkability is high and the wine just seems to get more direct with time.
Kuentz-Bas Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Pfersigberg 2016: Extremely aromatic on the nose. This is ripe and sweet on the nose but unexpectedly it is as light as a feather on the palate, there is no weight whatsoever. Really delicious without ever becoming a caricature.
Chartreuse V.E.P. Verte: I have nothing new to say about this one, it is always fantastic and the perfect way to end a meal. Despite the high ABV my gf loves it.
Etienne Calsac Champagne Les Rocheforts Blanc de Blancs: A lot of structure and poise and only gets more energetic with time. A very pure and unadulterated wine. Quite linear in style, not very concentrated. Fantastic acidity.