TN: Selosse, Gosset, Valentini, 98 Cheval Blanc, 04 Rougeard Poyeux, 82 Mouton

Some brief tasting impressions from these wines enjoyed on Sat night. The Selosse Initial was 2017 disgorgement and very clean with a thick mousse. Excellent, distinctive, but I’d be buying other champagnes at this price point.

The Gosset Grand reserve was heavy, gold and monolithic; was not a good idea to open this next to Selosse. Even if it wasn’t drunk next to Selosse I’d pass on this offering.

The 2017 Valentini Cerasurolo was way young but the stuffing is there. Structured and tight, this will be a superb wine but I don’t plan to touch another bottle for several years. I have not seen another rose built like this.

The 98 Cheval Blanc was my first of 6 bottles purchased on release. Although I never tasted it on release I can’t figure how the critics got this wine so wrong. It’s absolutely marvelous, pure and regal, rich and balanced. If you have multiple bottles it is well worth trying now. This still has upside and is going to drink really well for a long long time.

The 04 Rougeard Poyeux was the best showing yet of this wine for me. Its purity and transparency is still in place but the wine has now filled and rounded out. One of the tasters did not see this as tasting of cab franc; but to me it’s a great and accurate example of cab franc. It was every bit the equal of the Cheval Blanc to my palate and I would probably give the edge right now to the Poyeux if pushed to pick a winner this night. Drinking superbly right now, hard to imagine this further improving; and I would guess will hold at this level for several years.

My guess is the 82 Mouton had likely suffered some less than optimal storage over its years. Lowish fill and a saturated cork. Even after decanting, exhibited a muted nose that never opened up. No magic here.

With the Mouton, enjoyed a prime tomahawk, followed by R&J Habana churchills and a nice rum to finish the night. A pretty stellar evening.

Thanks, Greg, for the 2004 Rougeard Poyeux note.

Had one 5 years ago, in 2014, and thought then that this was seriously very young to drink, but pretty much in the nothing-but-Loire pure Cab Franc space. I’ve a couple in the storage and appreciate the helpful data point.

Hi Ramon. I have had the 04 Poyeux probably 5 times since release, last one probably 4-5 years ago, but this is the first time it has shown this level of fullness and richness; it’s still vibrant, but the wine has changed much for the better since my last tasting. If you have a couple in storage, not infanticide to try one now. Cheers, Greg

An 82 Mouton that I bought on release and professionally stored at 55 was good but not great in April. At my last 1982 Bordeaux tasting in 2012 the Mouton was the WOTN but not this recent bottle. Just nothing magical at all, but still very good.

I was at an event at Mouton celebrating the 150th year under Rothschild ownership. They served multiple bottles of 1982 , all from the chateau cellars. Quite a bit of bottle variation; some extraordinary, a few mediocre, and all stops between.

Thanks for the tip on the Cheval; was wondering when to open.

Thanks for the note on the Clos Rougeard Greg. I’ll try and pull one soonish.

which Selosse did you drink?
I agree on the 98 Cheval Blanc being a great bottle. I drank one last year and added more to my cellar.

Thanks for the notes, those are a few of my favorite things, although of the famous cigars I’m more of a Montecristo #2 though I do love the R&J Churchill.

I assume that the Selosse is the Initial. I could drink this on the reg if it hadn’t become so hard to get and so expensive.

Because I was ITB in the early to mid-90s, I got to drink the 1982 Mouton on many occasions and most of the time it was good, not great, and usually overshadowed by other wines so my experience is a lot like Mark’s. It has been a while since I’ve had a bottle though.

I last had the 2004 Poyeux in 2013 and thought the bottle young, but fantastic. I’ve had a recent great bottle of Bourg and will try a Poyeux soon. Given current prices, I’ve been looking at selling a case of Rougeard to fund a trip to France, such are the absurd time we live in.

How does that 98 Cheval compare to the 2000?

Yes, the Initial. I’ll update my post.

Thanks, Greg,

For the notes. Interestingly, I had both the '04 Poyeux and the '98 Cheval Blanc in a tasting last fall. The '98 showed tons of promise was not quite yet open for business to my palate. The '04 was really singing, beautiful wine; I agree, it definitely had rounded out. I also have the '17 Cerasurolo, so it’s good to know to hold.

1 Like

Interesting lineup, thanks for the notes. I realize this is technically a wine thread but what was the rum?

I’m a big fan of Cheval Blanc, although I own exactly 1 bottle, but own a bit more of Rougeard’s, and am glad to read notes and testimonials here on how Rougeard can stand toe-to-toe with one of the elite producers in Bordeaux.

Interesting note on the Gosset. I bought a bunch of them in 375; I’ve only had 2 bottles but neither seemed as clumsy as the one you described. Thanks for posting

It was an El Dorado rum I think 17 years old? Had never tried before, very nice and smooth, went great with the R&J.

Tastes about two years older.

Robert, have never tried the 00 CB so can’t help you there, sorry. Glad to do a side by side comparison if you bring the 00 though!

I love El Dorado. Their 15 year is the steal in liquor, and great with cigars. If it had a blue label, it is the 21, if not it was the 12 or 15. IIRC, they don’t make a 17 year.

The Valentini Cerasurolo wines always grab my attention. The 2016 version is lovely!

Tom

Nathan, I think it would have been the 15 then, I would have remembered the number 21. As you mention it was great with cigars. And Tom, agreed–I have heard that Eduardo Valentini had always maintained his favorite of the three wines he made was the Cerasurolo. I’ve had a few vintages over the years and they are stunners to be sure with few years under their belts.