I’ve not posted any notes in ages so here are some from a recent dinner in Singapore. I was there for work for a while, drinking rather too well but mostly not taking notes. I did scribble down a few things at a Burgundy dinner at my favourite Chinese restaurant - Imperial Treasure (now opened in London…). The theme was Vosne 1er Cru but not everyone got the same memo. Wines were served blind.
Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Pucelle 2017 - Domaine Jean Chartron
One of my wines, so not blind. Fresh orchard fruit on the nose with a piercing, mineral element. Has a richness and hazelnut character I associate with this cuvee (Clos du Cailleret being much more taut and linear). Lots of weight and presence in the middle; rich fruit sheathed in acidity. There is an underlying savouy tone and peachy fruit on the mid-palate alongside a limey acidity. Long and spicy. 94/100
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Petits Monts 2011 - Domaine Vigot
I liked this a lot, and more than my colleague who brought the wine. A sappy, crunchy, red-fruit profile and a pale colour signifies the stem inclusion here. Everything about both nose and colour is bright and snappy, with an earthy aroma. It plays on the cusp of ripeness, but successfully so for me. Lots of snap and a taut, chalky texture. Slender and lifted raspberry fruit. 92/100
Vosne Romanee 1998 - Domaine Rene Engel
Mature colour, turning amber, and tertiary aromas with tomato, earth and root vegetable tones. Quite structured and (blind) clearly not a ripe year. I was thinking old school 1993. Flavours of mushroom, earth and spice with an old school, funky, finish. 88/100
Volnay 1er Cru 2002 - Domaine Coche-Dury
Utterly brilliant wine. Blind, I thought about 2002 but, such was the vivacity, that I thought it had to be 2010. I was tossing up between Volnay and Chambolle - we were told this was off-theme - but came down on Chambolle from the likes of Roumier. Just a glorious bottle. It was pristine, bright and pure in its red fruit expression - very fluid and with great clarity and definition of flavour. Superbly ripe but with stunnning control and poise - weightless. Scented and aerial on the finish. 93/100
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Malconsorts 2012 - Domaine Dujac
Dark-toned, fleshy and with a hint of barrel reduction. The combination of ripeness and youth - whilst clearly not being 2015 or 2016 - led straight to 2012. This was plush and succulent with velvety tannin. I was almost taken into Liger-Belair country because of the reduction and texture, which shows how far Dujac have moved from the stem-influenced style of old. I still couldn’t see the whole bunch but this was a terrific Vosne of volume and richness, with a soaring, floral, finish. 95/100
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots 2015 - Domaine Hudelot-Noellat
The wine to get you excited about your 2015 H-N! Deep in colour and with a clear 2015 signature of ripeness and breadth. Exotic and rich with citrus peel and spice - this plays on the edge of VA but with absolute precision, giving complexity and lift rather than being a problem. There is wonderful purity and line through the core of this, with a lift and cut that goes right through the fat of the vintage. Surprisingly crystalline with some wholebunch spice on the finish. 95/100
Cheers,
Matthew