TN: More (Calif/Italian) Nebbiolos...(long/boring)

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TomHill
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TN: More (Calif/Italian) Nebbiolos...(long/boring)

#1 Post by TomHill » July 4th, 2019, 2:32 pm

We tried last week (6/26/19) some More Nebbiolos:
1. Iuli Natalin VinoRosso (13.5%; www.Iuli.It; Grignolino) Fabrizio Iuli/Montaldo de Cerrina 2017 (L NA 17):
Med.light color; strong very fragrant strawberry/Grignolino slight bretty/earthy rather attractive nose;
quite tart/tangy/acidic rather lean strong floral/strawberry/orange/Grigno bit earthy/dusty rather austere
flavor w/ ample hard/tangy tannins; long very tart/acidic quite perfumed/Grigno/strawberry bit earthy finish
w/ ample bitey tannins; a really lovely/fragrant Grigno nose but very acidic/austere and hurts on the palate.
$29.00 (BWM)
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2. Iuli Malidea Vino Rosso (Nebbiolo; 13.5%) NV: Med.light color; very strong violets/Nebb/lilacs/floral/
rose petal very slight tarry/pungent very slight VA/EA beautiful aromatic classic Nebb nose; fairly tart/tangy
strong floral/Nebb/lilacs/violets bit dusty/OV slight tarry flavor w/ some tangy/bitey tannins; very long/
lingering fairly tart/tangy very strong floral/Nebb/llacs/violets/rose petal slight tarry finish w/ some
chewey tannins; a beautiful perfumed Nebb nose but a bit on the lean/austere side on the palate; needs
3-8 yrs yet; bit on pricey side at $38.00 (DiVino)
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3. SandroFay Carteria DOCG: ValtellinaSuperiore Valgella (Chiavennasca; 13.5%; ToscoImports;
www.vinifay.it/index.php?lang=en) SanGiacomo di Teglio 2012
: Med.color; strong Nebb/floral/lilacs bit
pungent/tarry/earthy slight old oak slightly funky somewhat complex nose; lightly tart/tangy strong floral/
lilacs/Nebb slight tarry/pungent/road tar bit earthy/dusty complex flavor w/ modest chewey tannins; very long/
lingering strong floral/Nebb/lilacs slight tarry/road tar some earthy/dusty bit complex finish w/ light
chewey tannins; a rather classic Valtelline Nebb that needs more age. $33.00 (EVN)
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4. SandroFay Carteria DOCG: ValtellinaSuperiore Valgella Riserva (Chiavennasca; 13.5%; ToscoImports)
SanGiacomo di Teglio 2013
: Med.dark color; much more fragrant Nebb/floral/lilacs/violets light tarry/road tar/
pungent light old oak very fragrant/complex nose; bit tarter/tangy very strong floral/Nebb/violets/lilacs light
old oak some tarry/pungent bit dusty/earthy/OV rather complex flavor w/ modest chewey tannins; very long/
lingering very strong floral/Nebb/lilacs/violets fairly tart/tangy bit earthy/dusty/OV some road tar/pungent
fairly complex finish w/ modest chewey/crunchy tannins; a beautiful expression of Valtelline Nebb. $43.00 (EVN)
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5. Mamete Prevostini Sassella DOCG: Valtellina Superiore (13.5%; www.MametePrevostini.com) 2012: Dark color;
beautiful Nebb/floral/lilacs/violets/spicy light old oak very slight tarry/black cherry complex nose; fairly
tart/tangy/bit acidic some floral/Nebb/lilacs light old oak bit citric/metallic light dusty/earthy bit complex
flavor w/ light tangy tannins; very long rather floral/Nebb/lilacs/cherry very light tarry light old oak
finish w/ light angular tannins; a fairly classic Valtelline Nebb but not at the level of the Fays.
$36.50 (VB)
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6. Castelli Nebbiolo "Bruma" LakeCnty (13%) 2010: Med.color w/ slight bricking; some vanilla/oak bit herbal/
earthy/dusty/LakeCnty rather volatile some fragrant Nebb/floral/lilacs lightly aromatic nose; fairly tart bit
fumey/volatile some earthy/loamy/LakeCnty bit floral/lilacs/Nebb slight tarry/pungent flavor w/ light ripe
tannins; med.long light floral/Nebb/lilacs somewhat earthy/loamy/dusty/LakeCnty finish w/ light tannins;
speaks quietly of Nebb but more of the LakeCnty rustic/loamy character; not going to get any better. $18.00
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7. Castelli Nebbiolo Estate/GreenVlly of RRV/SonomaCnty (13.5%; Aged: Neutral Fr.oak for 46 mo;
www.CastelliVineyards.com) Sebastapol 2011
: Med.dark color; beautiful floral/Nebb/lilacs/violets/rose petal
very fragrant slight VA slight tarry/pungent rather complex nose; very strong floral floral/Nebb/lilacs/
rose petal slightly tart/tangy light oak bit tarry/pungent rather complex slight volate flavor w/ ample
tangy/chewey tannins; very long/lingering strong floral/Nebb/lilacs/rose petal slight tarry/pungent fairly
complex lovely finish w/ some chewey tannins; a whiff of volatility but just enough to give it an aromatic
lift; still needs another 3-6 yrs yet; quite a lovely expression of Calif Nebb. $30.00
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8. Castelli Nebbiolo "Fosco" GreenVlly of RRV (14.2%) 2011: Dark color; lighter fragrant/Nebb/floral/lilacs
slight pungent slight minty/woodsy bit Grandma's cheap perfume bit complex interesting atypical nose; much
softer light Nebb/floral/lilacs slight pungent bit herbal/woodsy bit simpler flavor w/ light gentle tannins;
med.long lightly tart some floral/Nebb/lilacs slight pungent/woodsy/forest floor/herbal finish w/ light
tannins; speaks quietly of Nebb and somewhat exotic/atypical of Calif Nebb; rather interesting wine. $22.00
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9. Castelli Nebbiolo 'Fosco' GreenVlly/RRV (14.0%; Plntd: 2003/2004/2007) 2012: Med.dark color; bit earthy/dusty
fairly fragrant Nebb/floral/lilacs/bit spicy very slight bretty slight pungent almost Valletine-like bit herbal
much more attractive nose; lightly tart slight pungent/tarry bit earthy/Valtelline-like light floral/lilacs/
Nebb slight herbal flavor w/ light gentle tannins; long light floral/Nebb/lilacs bit earthy/pungent lightly tart
finish w/ light tannins; speaks quietly of Nebb but an earthiness that suggests Valtellina; much better than
the '11. $22.00
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10. Castelli Nebbiolo Estate/GreenVlly/RRV/SonomaCnty (13.7%; Dry Farmed; U/U; Aged:
neutral Fr.oak for 48 mo; 75 cs) 2012
: Med.dark color; bit tight/closed slight volatile/VA fairly fragrant/Nebb/
lilacs very light tarry/pungent somewhat complex nose; fairly tart/tangy somewhat floral/Nebb/lilacs/rose petal
very light tarry flavor w/ modest tangy/chewey tannins; very long/lingering bit tart some floral/lilacs/Nebb/
rose petal slight tarry bit complex finish w/ some astringent tannins; not as intense Nebb character as the
'11 and seems a bit tight/closed; needs more age but a quite good Nebb. $34.00
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11. Castelli Nebbiolo 'Fosco' GreenVlly/RRV (14.4%; 50 cs; Plntd: 2007/Grafted: 2008) 2013: Dark color; much
stronger floral/Nebb/lilacs/rose petal some spicy slight VA very light tarry bit earthy/herbal fairly attractive
nose; fairly tart stronger floral/Nebb/lilacs/violets slight metallic bit volatile flavor w/ light tangy tannins;
very long bit volatile fairly strong floral/Nebb/violets bit pungent/tangy/metallic bit complex finish w/
some chewey tannins; best of the Foscos w/ very attractive aromatics; needs more age. $22.00
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12. Castelli Nebbiolo LunaMattaVnyd/AdelaideDist/PasoRobles (14.4%; 50 cs; 46 mo.in neutral Fr.oak;
U/U) 2013
: Med.dark color; somewhat high VA/EA very light floral/Nebb/lilacs somewhat perfumed nose;
rather hot/fumey/quite volatile/VA/EA light floral/Nebb/rose petal very light tarry flavor w/ light
tangy tannins; very long light Nebb/floral/rose petal slight rather burning/fumey/VA/EA finish w/ light
tangy tannins; noticible VA on the nose but really comes thru as fumey/hot/burning on the palate and
tough to drink. $26.00
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12a. Castelli Nebbiolo LunaMattaVnyd/AdelaideDist/PasoRobles (14.2%; 50 cs) 2012: Med.color; very slight
volatile/VA some tarry/pungent slight PR/jammy/ripe rather floral/Nebb/lilacs light pencilly/earthy
rather complex quite fragrant nose; lightly tart/tangy fairly pungent/tarry/bit earthy rather floral/
Nebb/lilacs slight pencilly bit complex flavor w/ modest tangy tannins; very long/lingering slight
volatile rather pungent/tarry/licorice some floral/lilacs/Nebb finish w/ light tangy/bitey tannins;
needs 4-7 yrs yet; not as fragrant as the Estate but speaks strongly of Nebb; not nearly the VA of
the '13. $26.00
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13. Castelli Nebbiolo Estate/GreenVlly/RRV/SonomaCnty (14.1%; Dry Farmed; U/U; Aged: neutral Fr.oak for 48 mo;
80 cs) 2013
: Very dark color; very strong very floral/Nebb/lilacs/rose petal bit tarry/pungent quite aromatic
lovely nose; lightly tart/tangy strong floral/Nebb/lilacs/rose petal very slight tarry/pungent flavor w/ modest
chewey tannins; very long/lingering rather strong floral/Nebb/lilacs/rose petal very light tarry/pungent
finish w/ modest firm tannins; much like the '11 but not the complexity and needs more age; shows no signs
of volatility; as good as Nebb gets in Calif w/ loads of Nebb fruit; beautiful expression of Nebb. $34.00
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14. Prunotto Barolo Bussia DOCG: Barolo (14%) Alba 1997: Larry's mystery wine: Very dark color; somewhat funky/
earthy/dusty bit herbal strong floral/Nebb fairly pungent/road tar bit charred/oak somewhat complex nose;
lightly tart/tangy bit funky/earthy/dusty some grapey/Nebb/floral/rose petal fairly tarry/pungent flavor w/
light astringent tannins; very long fairly floral/Nebb/rose petal slight funky/earthy fairly road tar/pungent
some charred/oak bit complex finish w/ light astringent tannins; doesn't show the ethereal perfume you expect
of an old Barolo and a bit disappointing given its pedigree but a very attractive Nebb; don't see this getting
any better and starting to dry out a bit on the palate.
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More zurplefugg from TheBloodyPulpit:
1. Castelli: Emilio is probably the master of Nebbiolo growing in Calif. At the Nebb events, they are often the
favorites. He farms by Fukuoka and his vnyd is one of the ugliest vnyds in all Calif. But you can't argue with
the results. Several yrs ago, he convinced some folks (BrentWalker) to put in Nebb in a vnyd (the basis of the
Fosco) a few miles away. The operation was not a roaring success and now Emilio farms that vnyd as well, though
not by Fukuoka I believe. I believe this is his source for PinotNoir as well. Emilio has in the works a rose
that is a 50/50 blend of PinotNoir/Nebbiolo. And then in 2018, he made 4 cs of a 50/50 Arneis/Roussanne blend
from Brent's vnyd. This year, there should be a high enough yield to make a pure Arneis.
Many of these Nebbs showed varying degrees of volatility, though not out of control except for the LunaMatta.
It was just enough to give the wines a distinct aromatic lift.
The Bruma, made from LakeCnty grapes, was made only in 2010 because that year there was a severe sunburn issue
that drastically reduced the yield of the Estate vnyd. The wine spoke mostly of LakeCnty terroir and only quietly
of Nebb. Of all the Castelli Nebbs, the Estate Nebbs were clearly the best. Some of the best Nebbs being made in
Calif. And his prices remain very reasonable.
I first met Emilio yrs ago on one of the wine boards (forget which one...maybe Squires). He made some comments
that indicated a great knowledge of Italian wines, particularly Nebbiolo, and mentioned he was growing grapes.
It piqued my interest to inquire what he was growing. He indicated he was growing Nebbiolo up in the GreenVlly
area of SonomaCnty, NW of Graton...Pinot & Chard country. My first reaction was "Man...that's nuts". But when I
first tasted his Nebb, I realized that he was onto something. At our NEB tastings, his Nebbs are consistently
ranked right up at the top.
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2. Valtellina: After the ArPePe and Balgera's, the SandroFay and Prevostini Nebbs are some of my favorite Nebbs
from the Valtelline. I first made their acquaintance when I visited the area and shopped at Fratelli Ciapponi
in Morbegno. This is a fantastic wine (and cheese & salami) shop that Emilio had insisted I visit when I went
thru there. In the depths of their basement/cellar, they have wheels of Bitto cheese aging, some as old as
20 yrs. A "must visit" for anyone going to the Valtelline.
These two SandroFays were up to expectations, with the '13 Riserva definitely superior. The Prevostini was
quite good, but I'd had better ones in the past. I love the Valtelline Nebbs because the are a bit more intense
than those from B/B, though they don't often have the high-toned aromatics of B/B Nebbs and their tannins are
(usually) not as fierce & bitey.
Tom

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