1996 BURGUNDY RETROSPECTIVE - THE THIRD SESSION - Clarity - Vienna, Virginia (6/21/2019)
This was the third of the five sessions. Six of us gathered at our usual spot, Clarity in Vienna, Virginia.
The third session hasn’t changed my impression of being angry and bitter, i.e. coiled, acidic and a bit rough. I believe the 96s will eventually blossom in another decade or two when more tertiary notes emerge and the acidity and tannins become better integrated.
Clos Vougeot
Other than the Leroy, they were pedestrian.
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1996 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Very subdued nose, sour red fruit, sour cherry, stewed tomato, a hint of oxidation, mushroom, sous bois, soy and earth. Very angular palate, muted earthy red fruit, strong acidity, earthy mineral and an abrupt finish. Apparently, this was the last Clos Vougeot made by the domaine. Pretty disappointing, absolutely avoid in lieu of the current pricing. (87 pts.) -
1996 Domaine Jean Grivot Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Medium expressive nose displaying concentrated black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, smoked meat and earth. Very good concentration, packed rich black fruit, bright acidity, earthy mineral, noticeable but fine tannins and a medium to long concentrated black fruit driven finish. For my palate, the overall expression is rich yet masculine. Still needs time. (92 pts.) -
1996 Joseph Drouhin Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Medium expressive nose displaying bright sweet red fruit, strawberry candy, fresh raspberry, coffee, sap and limestone dust. Fully integrated yet youthful palate, finely layered bright red fruit, slightly lean, bright acidity, good limestone mineral, a hint of fine tannins and a medium to long bright red fruit driven finish. Good showing. (92 pts.) -
1996 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Beautifully mature expressive nose displaying ripe slightly dry red fruit, cherry, strawberry jam, dry cherry, sous bois, grilled cep, roasted coffee bean, stem, sap, cinnamon and limestone mineral. Fully integrated palate, nicely layered concentrated red fruit, unctuous and rich, bright acidity, good mineral presence, a hint of fine tannins and a long sweet red fruit driven finish with a hint of roasted coffee bean and sous bois at the end. Drinking beautifully. (95 pts.) -
1996 Domaine Anne Gros Clos Vougeot Le Grand Maupertui - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Strong VA, bright red fruit. NR (flawed) -
1996 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Medium expressive nose displaying sweet red fruit, raspberry, cherry, soy, a hint of cigarette ash and limestone mineral. Fully integrated palate, packed sweet red fruit, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long bright red fruit driven finish. Perhaps the second most concentrated CV after the Leroy. Nice showing. (93 pts.)
Benoit Ente
This was very pure and energetic.
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2014 Benoit Ente Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Truffiere - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
En magnum. Youthful energetic nose displaying fresh white fruit, lemon curd, fresh lemon, a hint of pear, beeswax, rainwater and crushed rocks. Very precise, pure and detailed palate, finely layered white citrus, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long fresh pure white fruit driven mineral finish. Although the fruit is a bit subdued, it is really enjoyable due to the purity and precision. (93 pts.)
Echezeaux
Better than the first flight but still hoping for a bit more.
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1996 Domaine Robert Jayer-Gilles Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Expressive nose displaying rich black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, a hint of cherry, roasted coffee beans, charred steak and mineral. Excellent concentration, nicely layered concentrated black fruit, rich and generous, good acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with a hint of coffee beans at the end. Really enjoyable. (94 pts.) -
1996 Emmanuel Rouget Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Medium expressive nose displaying blackberry, a hint of raspberry, sap, spicy spices and limestone mineral. Youthful yet fully integrated palate, finely layered sweet red fruit, silky, precise and detailed, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet red fruit driven finish with spicy spices at the end. Nice showing. (93 pts.) -
1996 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Expressive nose displaying ripe red and black fruit, raspberry concentrate, blackberry, black cherry, a hint of Vosne spice, sap and limestone. Fully integrated yet youthful palate, nicely layered red and black fruit, silky, polished and nicely detailed, bright acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long sweet red and black fruit driven finish with a hint of Vosne spice at the end. Nice showing. (95 pts.) -
1996 Domaine des Perdrix Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Showing a bit too much VA, weird. NR (flawed)
Trimbach
This was ripe but focused.
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2010 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile - France, Alsace
Medium expressive nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, yellow peach, a hint of lemon curd, honey, candied lemon zest, burnt sugar, sweet spices and limestone mineral. Excellent concentration, packed sweet yellow fruit, good acidity, medium mineral and a medium to long ripe yellow fruit driven finish. This clearly reflects the ripe vintage character but still showing good balance and focus. (92 pts.)
Clos de la Roche
The Hubert Lignier was corked which was unfortunate. I really liked the Dujac.
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1996 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Corked. NR (flawed) -
1996 Domaine Leroy Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Beautifully mature nose displaying ripe red fruit with a hint of black, strawberry and rhubarb tart, pomegranate, sour cherry, caramel, cinnamon, grilled cep, sap, sous bois and limestone. There is a hint of stem/green which is interesting. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated red fruit, rich and unctuous, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet red fruit driven finish with a hint of caramel and sous bois at the end. It is clearly expressing the concentrated Leroy style and the structured vintage character. (96 pts.) -
1996 Louis Jadot Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Slightly corked. It appears that my last bottle in 2011 was corked too. NR (flawed) -
1996 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
En magnum. Beautifully mature nose displaying sweet black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, black cherry, strawberry, sous bois, still showing strong stem, black truffle, sap and limestone. Fully integrated harmonious palate, nicely layered subtle black fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with sous bois and stem at the end. Drinking beautifully. (96 pts.)
This was an educational and fun evening. My hope is that the 96s will mature like the 75 Bordeauxs.
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