FIVE WINOS EXCELLENT ADVENTURE , MOSTLY IN BURGUNDY - Beaune, France (6/7/2019-6/15/2019)
To repeat our excellent adventure in France two years ago, RJ, Justin, Kelly and I started planning for a mostly Burgundy trip in January. We were joined by Birdie whom we met through Kelly during the 10th edition of Villa D’Este Wine Symposium.
http://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=35604
I quickly learned that visiting DRC, Rousseau, Coche will no longer be possible. Therefore, I actually had to work hard to set up the visits this time. My special thanks goes to everyone who made the visits possible.
Billy Weiss, the proprietor of North Berkeley Imports. He and I had never met but he went above and beyond to help setting up the appointments at Boyer-Martenot and Mugneret Gibourg.
Christy at Zachys Auction who helped to set up the visit at Douhin.
Stan at Moet Hennessy to set up the visit at Moet & Chadon
Mike at Wilson Daniel to set up the visit at Leflaive
And now the producers
Vincent at Boyer-Martenot
Marie-Andree at Mugneret-Gibourg
Veronique at Drouhin
Pierre at Leflaive
Erwan at Faiveley
Louis Michel at Comte Liger-Belair
Etienne at Jean Grivot
Frederic at Mugnier
Here are some of my thoughts:
2018 is a great red vintage, beautifully ripe and concentrated yet very fresh and pure. Some producers thought a repeat of the 09 but significantly more freshness.
2018 whites are quite ripe.
2017 reds can be very pure and classic, slightly less concentrated than the 18 but more pure fruit.
2017 whites are excellent though not as good as the 14, i.e. slightly riper fruit and slightly more concentrated.
2015 reds are drinking incredibly well.
2015 whites can be excellent but not all, Raveneau were excellent.
As expected, Mugneret-Gibourg, Faiveley, Comte LIger-Belair, Grivot and Mugnier all made incredible reds in 2018.
Boyer-Martenot is making very good whites, very pure in style, not too much sulphur.
Domaine Leflaive made incredible wines in 2017. If the domaine has addressed the premox issue, I will be a buyer once again. FWIW, the 14s which I had last year, seemed fresh and energetic.
Comte Lafon is at the top once again.
We tried a lot of Roulots and none of them were exceptional. There is absolutely no reason to chase.
June 7 - Lunch at Vantre
The owner Marco Pelletier served as the head sommelier at several Grand Award winners in Paris, including Taillevent and Le Bristol. The list was really deep, only third were listed, but not cheap. The dishes were simple but solid.
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2014 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Vireuils - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (6/7/2019)
Medium expressive nose displaying ripe dense citrus fruit, lemon curd, sweet and spice spices, wet sox and wet stone. Excellent concentration, dense slightly coiled yellow citrus, deeply toned and rich, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a medium to long dense and coiled citrus fruit driven finish. Good concentration and structure but a bit straightforward which can be expected from a village Meursault. Three times costlier than Bouchard or Girardin Meursualt 1er crus and less interesting. (91 pts.) -
2015 Domaine de Galouchey Le Vin de Jardin - France, Bordeaux (6/7/2019)
Marco’s project made from 4 white and 5 red Bordeaux varietals. He ponders whether to server the 13 or 15 but since we are drinking the Roulot which is concentrated, he opts to go with the 15. Expressive nose displaying ripe red fruit, plum and cherry, chocolate and sweet spices. With air, it really opens up, blackberry, black cherry, blueberry, rose, dark milk chocolate, sweet spices, lead pencil and mineral. Excellent concentration, nicely layered blue fruit, silk and round, good acidity, strong mineral, fine tannins and a long cassis fruit driven finish. This is a sort of Bordeuax that most people can love including natural wine lovers. Very youthful but very approachable. (91 pts.) -
2009 Domaine du Bel Air (Pierre et Rodolphe Gauthier) Bourgueil Clos Nouveau - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil (6/7/2019)
Expressive nose displaying rich and luxurious black fruit, blackberry, a hint of raspberry, perfume, rose, milk chocolate, light caramel, cedar and limestone. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered rich black and red fruit, silky and sensual, warm and round, beautifully detailed, medium acidity, strong mineral and a long rich black fruit driven finish. The rich yet precise style reminds me Clos Rougeard Les Poyeux but perhaps even more interesting for my palate. Exceptional showing. (95 pts.) -
1991 Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (6/7/2019)
We requested Marco to serve blind a bottle that is not on the list. Beautiful rich light yellow color. Expressive nose displaying lemon curd, slight unripe peach, burn sugar, caramel, lanolin and strong wet stone. Exceptional concentration, nicely layered dense and rich yellow citrus fruit, very precise, mouth puckering acidity, strong mineral and a long ripe citrus fruit driven finish. Kelly guesses Savagnin for the bright acidity. One of my guesses is a mature Clos St Hune but there is no petrol. It is a neutral grape, i.e. not overtly aromatic, where the complexity comes from exceptional cellaring. Perhaps Chardonnay. Marco reveals the wine. This is a beautifully mature Chablis. (93 pts.)
June 7 - Afternoon Drink at Willi’s Wine Bar
This was the only Raveneau on the list. The glory days are gone.
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2011 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (6/7/2019)
Expressive nose displaying cool citrus fruit, lemon curd, a hint of the 11 green, mint, honeysuckle, sap, cool mountain stream, sea breeze and limestone. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated yellow citrus, dense, excellent focus and precision, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long beautifully focused mineral finish. This is drinking beautifully. (95 pts.)
June 7 - Dinner at Le Bon Georges
The list is way overpriced, mostly more than the Michelin three stars.
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2010 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Le Cran Ludes - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (6/7/2019)
Expressive nose displaying slightly oxidized apple, apricot, a hint of red currants, honey, cinnamon, brioche and limestone. Beautifully integrated palate, rich yet precise, medium fine medium generous mousse, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long rich yellow fruit driven bone dry finish. This is a rich oxidative champagne, perhaps a bit like the aged vintage Krug. (93 pts.) -
2015 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (6/7/2019)
Cool clean nose displaying ripe white fruit, apple, pear, lemon, a hint of spearmint, honeysuckle and limestone. Excellent concentration, nicely layered sweet white fruit, clean and delicious, medium acidity, good limestone mineral and a medium to long ripe white fruit driven finish. Really enjoyable. (92 pts.) -
2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Cuvée Marguerite - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (6/7/2019)
Clean and energetic nose displaying cool white fruit, pear, apple, lemonade, honeysuckle, a hint of flint and limestone. Clean harmonious palate, nicely layered cool white fruit, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long cool white fruit driven finish. Drinking nicely. (92 pts.) -
2012 Serafin Père et Fils Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru (6/7/2019)
Medium expressive black fruit driven nose, blackberry jam, black cherry, animal, sap, rose and earth. Excellent concentration, packed black fruit, unctuous, medium acidity, earthy mineral, slightly coarse tannins and a medium to long ripe black fruit driven finish. There is a hint of fizz which is slightly bothersome. This is a big scale wine that lacks finesse. (89 pts.) -
2015 Thibault Liger-Belair Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (6/7/2019)
Expressive nose displaying bright red fruit with a hint of black, strawberry, blackberry, rose, dark spices and earth. Excellent concentration, packed sweet red fruit, unctuous and rich, good acidity and mineral and a long sweet black fruit driven finish. It is a big scale wine that needs another decade or two (91 pts.) -
2013 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Châteauneuf-du-Pape Omnia - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (6/7/2019)
Expressive nose displaying opulent jammy red fruit, cherry liqueur, strawberry jam, incense, dark spices, a hint of garrique, black pepper and limestone. Excellent concentration, nicely layered intense red fruit, silky and polished, good acidity and mineral, and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. This is a big scale but nicely balanced CDP. (94 pts.)
June 8 - Lunch at The Glue Pot
We walked to Racine, a new hot spot with a Japanese chef in Reims. Unfortunately, Kelly made a mistake and the reservation was made for the next day. The hostess kindly recommended this weird crazy place, a dive bar with an incredible wine list.
Notre-Dame Cathedral, breathtakingly beautiful!
Front view
Speechless! Jamet Cote Rotie, far right.
Kelly smiling as the Zaltos arrive!
The menu!
What we drank.
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2016 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (6/8/2019)
Very focused nose displaying granny smith, a slight hint of oxidized apple, fresh lime, a hint of pineapple, spicy spices, honey and mineral. Very good concentration, slightly coiled citrus fruit, good energy and focus, bright acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long coiled yellow fruit finish. This is a solid village Meursault. (92 pts.) -
2014 Domaine du Bel Air (Pierre et Rodolphe Gauthier) Bourgueil Clos Nouveau - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil (6/8/2019)
Showing more Cabernet Franc typicity than the 09 from the night before. Medium expressive nose displaying fresh black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, a hint of bell pepper, smoked meat, lactic, dark spices and mineral. Very refine palate, nicely layered fresh black fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral, fine tannins and a medium to long sweet black fruit driven finish. This will need another decade to reach the peak. (93 pts.)
June 8 - Moet & Chandon visit
We had a great visit at Dom Perignon. Yumie san had been working with Moet Chandon for over ten years and was incredibly knowledgeable.
Dom Perignon in the middle.
Cave
220,288 bottles of Dom Perignon.
50 plus year old Doms!
Beautiful garden where Napoleon met Jean Remy Moet.
Courtesy of Moet Hennessey.
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2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne (6/8/2019)
Typically, it takes twenty years for Dom Perignon to shine. The 08 is an exception. Perfectly harmonious nose displaying fresh white fruit, pear, lemon, honeysuckle, cool mountain stream and limestone. Perfectly harmonious palate, very finely layered pure white fruit, incredibly fine abundant mousse, elegant, harmonious and energetic, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a seamless long white fruit and mineral driven finish. The 08 has to be the best young Dom Perignon of my life, epitome of elegance and refinement. (98 pts.) -
2000 Dom Pérignon Champagne P2 - France, Champagne (6/8/2019)
Beautifully mature Dom Perignon nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, peach, apple pie, burnt sugar, light caramel, honey and limestone. Fully integrated palate, finely layered decadent yellow fruit, fine medium abundant mousse, good acidity and mineral, and a seamless long decadent yellow fruit driven finish. This seems richer than the original release. Really enjoyable. (95 pts.)
June 8 - Dinner at Le Millenaire
The dinner was supposed to be at L’Assiette, a three star Michelin, but Kelly made it for the next day once again. It actually didn’t turn out too bad as we had a great dinner and a memorable after dinner wines.
Beautiful day. People all drinking Champagne! Beautiful site!
The name, Millenaire, scared me a bit. This was the best pork of my life, so tender, flavorful and perfectly marbled.
Not so good wine list so we decided to eat quick and go back to the wine bar where we found a bunch of Rayas.
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2016 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (6/8/2019)
Very energetic nose displaying fresh clean white fruit, pear, apple, a hint of white flower, spicy spices and wet stone. Already showing beautifully integrated palate, nicely layered sweet but cool white fruit, clean and refreshing, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long pear and mineral driven finish. Drinking beautifully. (93 pts.)
June 8 - Nightcaps at Le Wine Bar
The dead soldiers!
With Nicolas, the young proprietor.
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2014 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Blanc Brézé - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (6/8/2019)
Quiet rich and ripe yet incredibly focused nose displaying yellow tropical fruit, pineapple, yellow and white peach, lemon curd, honey, a hint of flint, spicy spices and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered concentration yellow fruit, sweet and unctuous yet very focused and precise, mouth puckering acidity strong mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit and spicy spices driven finish. Very similar to the Clos Rougeard version at quarter of price. Excellent showing. (94 pts.) -
2005 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (6/8/2019)
Explosive complex nose displaying opulent jammy red fruit, raspberry liqueur, cherry compote, sap, tobacco, garrigue, leather, lightly smoked meat, black pepper, dark spices and limestone. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of hedonistic red fruit, fluid and sensual, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and an incredible long decadent red fruit driven finish with tobacco and leather at the end. This is a youthful big scale Rayas. Although incredibly enjoyable already, it can easily improve for another two decades or more. A hedonistic experience. (98 pts.) -
2008 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (6/8/2019)
Intoxicating exotic kinky nose displaying cherry liqueur, dry red cherry, strong cannabis, garrigue tobacco, stem, leather, sweet spices and crushed rocks. Beautifully integrated palate, layers upon layers of dry cherry fruit, silky and fluid, beautifully detailed, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet cherry fruit driven finish with cannabis and tobacco at the end. This has really improved, gaining concentration and becoming more expressive. Although it doesn’t have the material of the 05, it is equally enjoyable at the moment, i.e. more expressive and exotic. (98 pts.)
June 9 - Lunch
This was a memorable lunch!
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2011 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (6/9/2019)
Incredibly focused nose displaying concentrated yellow citrus fruit, lemon curd, light honey, lactic, a hint of the 11 green, spicy spices, sea breeze, oyster shell, cool mountain stream and wet stone. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of yellow citrus fruit, cool, energetic, laser like focus, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long concentrated yellow fruit and mineral driven finish. This is a classic Raveneau Les Clos showing laser like focus and precision. (95 pts.) -
2015 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (6/9/2019)
Absolutely gorgeous nose displaying pure fresh white fruit, pear, white peach, candied lemon peel, a hint of Coche flint, honeysuckle, cool mountain stream and crushed rocks. Perfectly harmonious and balanced palate, very finely layered pure white fruit, exceptional energy and freshness, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long pure pear and citrus fruit driven finish with a hint of Coche flint at the end. This is unbelievably tasty yet very serious wine. So youthful yet so perfectly delicious! (98 pts.) -
2013 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (6/9/2019)
Expressive nose displaying sweet black fruit, crushed blackberry, black cherry, beautifully perfumed, rose, black truffle, cinnamon, light caramel and limestone mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense sweet black fruit, rich and warm but also fluid and precise, bright acidity, strong mineral, noticeable but very fine tannins and a long sweet black fruit driven finish. It reminds me the 07 version a bit. It is already very expressive and incredibly delicious but will improve for another decade. (97 pts.)
June 9 - Before Dinner Drink at Bissoh
This was one of the restaurants that I was thinking of eating. Since we had a half hour, we wanted to grab a quick drink. The hostess/sommelier kindly let us come in with one condition, leave before the restaurant opens. Pierre Rovani was coming in as we were heading out.
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2007 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Vignes de Mon Père - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (6/9/2019)
Expressive nose displaying succulent yellow citrus and tropical fruit, lemon crud, a hint of pineapple, fresh OJ, candied orange peel, light caramel, beeswax and limestone mineral. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated succulent yellow fruit, dense, rich and deeply tone yet incredibly focused, mouth puckering acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long dense succulent yellow fruit driven finish. This is a big scale wine. I really love the dense yet focused expression. It reminds me the Clos Rougeard Breze a bit, i.e. dense and concentrated yet incredibly focused. (95 pts.)
June 9 - Dinner
Another Japanese chef owned restaurant. The dishes were perfectly executed.
The young proprietor Nicolas was a passionate wine lover. We had a blast!
Amuse Bouche
Foie Gras
The Roumier was a bit off but the Rousseau was exceptional. We were tempted to order the 14 La Tache but decided to drink the next day when RJ and Justin join us. We told the young manager that we would come back and he got us a table. Since the Roumier was a bit off, he comped the bottle which was a nice gesture.
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2015 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (6/9/2019)
Slightly coiled energetic nose displaying ripe yellow citrus fruit, lemon curd, granny smith, a hint of pineapple, honey, honeysuckle, a hint of spearmint, rainwater, beeswax and limestone. Excellent concentration, slightly coiled concentrated yellow fruit, dense yet pure and energetic, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long slightly coiled yellow citrus fruit driven mineral finish. This shows better focus than the December, 2018 bottle as the tropical fruit expression has subsided, i.e. more citrusy. (94 pts.) -
2014 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (6/9/2019)
There is no TCA yet the wine seems medicinal and not expressive. This bottle reminds me the 05 Roumier Musigny that I drank two years ago, i.e. no obvious flaws but very muted. We try it again the next day and remains muted. NR (flawed) -
2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru (6/9/2019)
Gorgeous youthful nose displaying opulent yet pure black fruit with a hint of red, crushed blackberry, black cherry, strawberry and rhubarb tart, licorice, sap, smoked meat, red flowers, roasted coffee bean and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of perfectly ripe crushed blackberry, flamboyant yet pure and energetic, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and a long pure black fruit driven finish. This is concentrated yet very pure. Excellent showing. (97 pts.)
June 9 - After Dinner Drink at Bissoh
We served a glass of the Ganevat. Pierre thought it was flaw, secondary carbonation. I and Kelly didn’t notice any fizz and we actually loved the wine. Oh, well!
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Premier Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Mareuil-sur-Ay Sous le Mont - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (6/9/2019)
Expressive nose displaying succulent yellow and red fruit, sour cherry, cherry soda, lemon curd, strawberry candy, smoke, brioche, sweet spices, cinnamon and limestone. Very good concentration, nicely layered succulent red fruit, fine medium generous mousse, rich and warm yet bright and energetic, mouth puckering acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long rich succulent red fruit driven finish. Very rich and succulent showing. A bit of natural wine like impression, Ganevat with bubbles, pretty serious Champagne. (96 pts.)