Quick thoughts on the Terry Theise portfolio tasting

Totally off the top of my head/raw notes from the NYC tasting:

I spent a lot of time at the beginning of the tasting with the Austrian producers who were present. That was an overall excellent decision. Hirsch and Hiedler had impressive collections. Hiedler leads on the value front (2017 & 2018 Thal Gruner Veltliner!), but Hirsch is no slouch (2017 Renner Gruner Veltliner was a big highlight for me). I almost never see notes on either producer, and they both deserve more air time and cellar space, for both Gruner Veltliner and Riesling. Schloss Gobelsburg showed a couple of 2017s (Lamm Gruner and Heiligenstein Riesling) that blew me away.

2018 Muskatellers were excellent across the board from producers who make them - in both Austria and Germany. Berger, Heidi Schrock & Darting (Germany) made compelling, reasonably priced Muskatellers.

On the Germany front, the 2018 Selbach-Oster collection was predictably fantastic. Their Feinherb wines were completely compelling, especially the Feinherb Alte Reben Graacher Domprobst. Their 2018 Graacher Domprobst Spatlese was also fantastic - my favorite Spatlese of the day! The Dönnhoff 2018 Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett and 2018 Weissburgunder Trocken (yes, Weissburgunder!!!) were highlights for me. I also had really good wines from Schneider (Niederhauser Klamm Kabinett, Hermannshohle Auslese), Künstler (2018 Domdechaney Riesling Trocken, 2017 Berg Rottland Grosses Gewachs), A. J. Adam (2018 Im Pfarrgarten Riesling Feinherb), and others as well.

I have plenty more info from the event, just not enough time to type it all up. I did not get to everyone I wanted to, but I tried to ensure I talked with producers at length, and did not just swirl, sniff and spit. Though spit I did, and lots. I was stone cold sober for my subway ride back to Grand Central Station.

Feel free to ask questions!

How do your teeth feel? After my last Theise portfolio tasting my teeth hurt for a week. I was scared to brush them lest I remove the enamel entirely.

Not too bad. 2018 was not a very high acid vintage. Minor pain, nothing extreme.

Thanks for the notes, David. Please tell us more when you have time! I’d hoped to attend but wasn’t able to make it back to the city on time.

One thing worth noting - the weather in NYC yesterday was horrid for a tasting! Wines that showed really well in the low pressure, humid conditions are great indeed!

Thanks for your notes. Any thoughts on how 2018 compares with other recent warmish years?

I haven’t seen a bottle of Hiedler in years.

Have they made any dessert Chardonnays recently?

No idea. Didn’t ask.

I walked in expecting another 2011. I think 2018 is generally better balanced. It’s not flabby (though a small subset of wines were notably deficient…small), but it’s not for acid heads, except by exception.

David, thanks for the notes. Thoughts on Selbach-Oster 2018s vs. 2017s?

Different style vintage. 2017 has more (but not excessive) acid. I am going to buy the two Domprobst wines because they are special. I have talked to Johannes Selbach many times, and this was the first time he waxed euphoric over a vineyard site. He was drilling me about how their parcel in Domprobst is so special.

Agree with David that Selbach Oster as always was great. Their 2017 Rotlay was my fav wine of the vintage and bought a case of 12. 2018 Rotlay wasn’t ready yet.

I also thought merkelbach rieslings were quite good.

Yes. The Merkelbach wines were quite good. Well worth buying, especially since we have no idea how much longer the brothers will continue.