BURDGUNDY VILLAGE WINES FROM TOP PRODUCERS - East Treasure, Clarke Quay, Singapore (14/3/2019)
This was a very interesting, and thoroughly enjoyable theme - the range of village wines we had were outstanding, and really yummy. We should do this more!
WHITES
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2000 Duval-Leroy Champagne Femme de Champagne - France, Champagne
Really, really good. This was a lovely Champagne. The nose was bright and high-toned, with notes of lemons, green apples and mineral, along with a slightly rounder, slightly oxidative edge. The palate was where it shone though. Fine mousse, beautifully judged acidity, lovely poise, with graceful flavours of apples and lemons gently unfolding across the mouth, this was just delicious. The wonderfully long finish was kissed with a little bit of toast and nuttiness that added a nice gloss to the gentle fruit. Absolute wonderful, and drinking so well now. (94 pts.) -
2014 Remoissenet Père et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
This was lovely. A white threatening to steal the show on a red night. The nose showed very attractive notes of white fruit, honey, white flower, a bit of chalk and earth, and just that little hint of butter at the sides. Really nice. Lovely on the palate too. Buttery, creamy, but with a good bit sweet white fruit and white flowers beneath that, all this lifted by a lovely bit of citrus acidity. This underlined for me just how good the 2014 white vintage is. It was not a perfect wine - this felt just that bit imprecise to me, and maybe lacking a bit of elegance - but it was really delicious, with tons of substance leading into a long, beautiful finish. All in all, very good, and drinking well early. (92 pts.) -
2004 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
One of two 1er Cru whites in the midst of a sea of village reds, this seeemd advanced, but was still very pleasant. The nose gave off smells of ripe apples, shading into sweeter yellow-fruited aromas, even a touch of tropical pineapple, and then a little citrus and mineral running behind. Pretty nice. The palate had a nice fullness to it, with ripe, round notes of red apples and sweet lemons, just beginning to be touched with the very slightest edge of oxidation, and then a creamy, almost oily textured finish with a touch flush of spice at the edges of the back palate, and chalkier mineral notes underneath. Full and powerful, yet decently balanced. A pleasant wine, if perhaps lacking the cut and precision that the best wines from the vineyard are capable of showing. (91 pts.)
MAIN EVENT
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1995 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
A bit tired, but this improved in the glass. The nose was still very pleasant, with nice drifts of spice, earth, some meat, and the a waft sweet dried cherry aromas. Mature and attractive. The palate was unfortunately a touch leaned out though, with a thin layer of fruit gliding over more structural elements of firm-boned tannins and bright acidity. The finish had a bit of dusty earth and bittersweet herb pulling away with a bit of surprising length. Very 1995 I thought. Still pleasant enough a drink, but tired. Thankfully, it opened up quite nicely with time, putting a bit of weight. This would have been better a few years back yet. (90 pts.) -
1995 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
An excellent village, still going strong after more than 20 years in the bottle. The nose had a hint of the whole cluster wine-making, with shades of boiled herb, exotic spices, and then a lovely hit of blueberry and dark cherry. So very Morey, and very lovely. The palate was a step behind. It may have had a bit more weight a few years ago, but there was still plenty of charm on it, with lovely, pure, fresh flavours of blueberries and dark cherries riding towards a long finish on an earthy, herby, slightly more structured base. Lovely balance and poise throughout. Very nice indeed. (91 pts.) -
2010 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Nice, but young, tight and muscular, in pure Barthod style. This is one that is built to last. It had such a beautiful nose though - sweet cherries, melting floral notes, a hint of herb, and lots of lovely earthy, spicy undertones. Very nice indeed. The palate was very impressive, but rather too young. Clear, clean, pure, and beautifully well cut, and still showing a real layer of sinewy structure that wound its way through beautifully defined layers of red fruit touch with Chambolle florals, and the just that bit of toasty spice trailing away into a beautiful long finish. Very fine, and very Barthod - like a male ballet dancer in full flight, all sinewy and powerful, yet so very graceful, without a hint of excess fat on it. Lovely, and it kept growing in the glass. This will be wonderful in 10 years of so. (92 pts.) -
2010 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Nice, but this spoke more of Fourrier than Chambolle - something I have found in many of his Chambolle wines in the past. The nose had that sesame and soy thing, and a bit of cola, and then earth, spice and dried flowers - all very Fourrier. The palate was really nice. Bright and high-toned, and full of delicious sweet red fruit dancing about a core of flowers and earth, and a just that kiss of spice. All this was speared through with a structure of bright acidity and beautiful fine tannins. So very yummy, with that pure, transparent feel that I really like from Fourrier. This had more than enough weight as well given the vintage. A lovely wine that should give a lot of pleasure over the next 5-10 years. (91 pts.) -
2009 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Delicious. This was pure 2009, which meant that it was ripe, voluptuous and immediately delicious, but I am not sure this is quite built for the longest term. The nose just sang of Vosne - wood spice, rich black cherries, blueberries, a touch of toasted earth, a twist of herb. Just lovely. The palate was really full and voluptuous for a village, with ripe dark berries and black cherry flavours, this lined with a little bit of spice and earth that trailed away into a long minerally finish. All impressively
balanced and muscularly structured too. Very good, but probably one for the next 5-10 years rather than for the absolute long term. Good stuff. (91 pts.) -
2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Very nice. The nose was sweet and ripe - very 2009 - with a
of red cherries, raspberries, and a hint of florals, alongside just a bit of earth and mineral. Nice, but a lot of puppy fat on that bouquet. The palate was lovely too, maybe even better than the nose. There was a nice burst of sweet, ripe red cherries and berries on the attack, married to a lovely spine of surprisingly fresh acidity. It was still a bit tight and shy at the core, with the fruit laced through tightly with a good bit of spice and mineral, but this was opening up all the time in the glass. Great long finish too, again with that kiss of spice towards the end. About as complete a village wine as one could wish for - this does need quite a few more years in the bottle though. (91 pts.)
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2013 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
Very good for a village. I could have sworn this was a Vosne though. The nose was really nice - sweet red cherries, darker blueberries, a touch of herb, rubber and tons of spice. Nice. The palate was full and lovely, with delicious flavours of blueberries seasoned with notes of spice and a little bit of earth. There was a beautiful feel of purity and transparency in spite of its power and girth - really Dujac in this sense. Good finish too. Long, minerally and full of conviction. This was a really solid village wine. Lovely stuff that will be even better 6-8 years down the road. (91 pts.) -
2005 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Clearly the most extracted wine of the night. This was pretty impressive though. The nose smelt very much like a Vosne, with spicy, earthy, minerally tones swirling around a core of dark berry fruit and dried florals. Still a bit tight and unyielding on the bouquet I thought. I liked the palate better than the nose. Extracted for sure, with firm 2005 tannins and good acidity framing deep, wide flavours of dark cherries and berries, and then a decent finish dominated by earthy mineral. Great depth and power for a village, but lacking a bit of the finesse and elegance of quite a few of the other wines on the night. One for a long term though - this will be interesting to taste 8-10 years down the road. (90 pts.) -
2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Lovely - this was easily one of the top 2 or 3 wines on the night. It had a great nose, a lovely representation of Gevrey, with notes of earth and mineral, sweet red fruit and a bit of spice, all this seasoned with just a hint of the sesame and cola that I always associate with Fourrier. A really nice nose. The palate was absolutely en pointe too. Surprisingly bright and juicy for a 2009, this showed silky tannins and good acidity laced through fresh, crunchy flavours of red cherries and lovely bright florals. This showed all of the purity, clarity and transparency that I love in a good Fourrier. The back palate had a nice twist of spice and just a bit of minerality gliding into a graceful finish too. It will not be the longest lived wine, but this will give a lot of pleasure over the next decade. Delicious stuff. (92 pts.)
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