1999 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses- France, Champagne (6/11/2019)
This was outstanding. Initially a little reticent on the pop-n-pour but boy did a little air and time do wonders here. It just kept expanding on the palate and nose all night long, and the last glass (which was finished on day two) was the best glass. Impressive density and size in the mouth but kept fresh and lithe by the acidity and clean fruit profile. White peaches, red apples, lemons and a kiss of salinity all melded together in a seamless package. The finish just pulls at your mouth in every direction and lasts and lasts. This bottle, sadly my last, was stunning.
I have been very disappointed in the way this wine has developed over the last 3-5 years. For a while I kept hoping it was in a strange spot, but now believe it has fallen victim to the Pinot Noir under-ripe phenolic issue that has plagued many wines from this vintage. The end result is a mature tasting wine that is still enjoyable, but is advanced for its age and shows too much acidity. This was a stunner as a youngster and held more potential than any wine I have ever tasted in its youth. Doesn’t look like that will be the case any longer (and disgorgement and bottle size don’t matter IMO). My hope is that I am wrong.