Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

Tasting notes, varietals, grapes - anything related to wine
Post Reply
Message
Author
User avatar
Jeremy Holmes
Posts: 6549
Joined: April 28th, 2010, 3:50 pm

Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#1 Post by Jeremy Holmes » June 10th, 2019, 10:28 pm

The theme for last night’s Monday Table was White Burgundy 1992 and older and Red Burgundy 1978 and older. I added a few other things in to keep things interesting.

Melbourne’s Flower Drum restaurant did a brilliant job with wine and food service.

Steamed seafood dumplings (Crab, Prawns & Scallops)

1949 Pommery Champagne Brut: No bubbles left but an enjoyable drink none the less. It had quite a sweet core of tinned peaches. It was full, vinous and grapey, with some mushroom and earth development. I suspect dosage was quite high on this one.

1943 Renaudin Bollinger & Co Champagne: Again, no fizz here. This started with some nuttiness and truffle and freshened in the glass. There was some preserved lemon and it had really good structure. The long finish was carried by bright acidity.

Saute Jade Tiger Abalone with garlic chives and Spring Onion

1969 Maison Leroy Montrachet, Grand Cru: A wonderfully fresh and thoroughly engaging bottle of wine. Complex aromatics of vanilla, white peach, aniseed and toast. It is rich and layered and cut by a fine line of minerally acidity. It really builds through the palate and possesses fabulous length of flavour.

1987 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets: Super-fresh, with a nose of struck match, menthol, rockmelon and peach. Full in the mouth, with ripe fruits and a touch of spice. There’s a suggestion of almond butter and terrific cut.

1988 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru: Still supremely youthful. There’s some flint, citrus blossom and mildly exotic fruits on the nose. It is rich, dense and linear in the mouth. It has fabulous detail and such great posture. Citrus flavours really linger.

1986 Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet, Grand Cru: Sadly, there was just a touch of cork taint to this wine. It was rich and layered and had notes of mandarin, custard apple, honey, apricot and aniseed. Botrytis was evident. I suspect sound bottles would be really good.

1981 Delagrange-Bachelet, Batard-Montrachet, Grand Cru: This particular bottle was looking a little tired. It was a bit custardy and had plump, sweet fruits. Acidity was a bit flat and there was some caramel to the finish.

Quail with spicy salt

1969 Faiveley Nuits-St-Georges Les St-Georges, 1er Cru: A splendid bottle of aged Burg, packed, powerful and perfumed. There’s sandalwood spice and an intense core of ripe cherry fruit. It has some root vegetable and earthy nuance and is deep and long.

1953 Faiveley Nuits-St-Georges Les St-Georges, 1er Cru: Has some salty, soy-like and seaweed traits. There’s plenty of sous bois and truffle and mushroom development. It has vinous sweetness and finishes with savoury persistence.

1959 Michel Ganoux Pommard Grand Epenots, 1er Cru: Some funky game and leather at first. There is a deliciously sweet core and it is a strong wine with plenty of authority and muscle.

Roast duck Breast

1937 Armand Naulot Pommard 1er Cru: Has an iodine note that works well with the sweet, rich fruits. It is quite earthy and has a light gaminess running through the wine. It finishes with a gentle flex of sinewy muscle.

1937 Armand Naulot Echezeaux, Grand Cru: Complex aromas of sandalwood, ginger, moss, balsamic and truffle. Good volume in the mouth with plenty of sweet, vinous things lapping around the gums. It has a velvety feel and good length.

1937 Armand Naulot Corton, Grand Cru: Too much aldehyde and volatility.

1937 Armand Naulot Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru: Has some meat, leather and compost. It is sweet and deep, with dark fruits and a slight sauvage character. It drinks very nicely.

1937 Armand Naulot Clos Vougeot, Grand Cru: A wonderful bottle. Spicy nose of aniseed, sandalwood and curry leaf. It is rich and textural, with black cherry fruit. There are layers of flavour and it finishes with a suggestion of Hoisin and tar.

Eye Fillet steak with black pepper sauce

1976 Averys Cuvee Georges de Vogue: We think this wine may have been Bonnes Mares, what it was though was a splendid bottle of red Burg. It was deep, sweet and luscious, with excellent power and drive. Dark fruit flavours are tinged with spice and really build through the palate, fanning out on the finish. I liked this very much.

1978 Domaine Henri Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru La Grande Rue: An engaging nose of Chinese 5 spice powder, sandalwood, forest floor and red fruits. It was silky and sweet in the mouth, with lovely balance and a fine line of minerally acidity. The finish was a peacock’s tail of geological matter, fruit and earth.

1945 Léon Violland Latricières-Chambertin, Grand Cru: A very fresh bottle with the scent of black tea, Asian spice, smoked meats and dark fruits. It was plump, sweet and round in the mouth, with deliciously spicy fruit flavours and a long, energetic finish.

Baked Chestnut pudding

1994 Domaine de la Bongran Mâcon Clessé Cuvée Botrytis: Incredibly concentrated, complex and rich. There are notes of lavender, honey, dried apricots and crème brulee. It has great volume and presence, with luscious fruits enveloping the mouth. For all its sweetness there is balancing acidity and the finish is clean and supremely long.

Almond cookies

1878 Camus Frères Cognac Fine Champagne: Such a pure, calm and even nose. The spirit is harmonious with all the grapey things. It is full and round, with great complexity and poise. Each sip drew out a subtle new aroma or flavour. It wasn’t fiery or sharp, but simply complete and a joy to drink.
ITB

User avatar
Mark C Johnson
Posts: 1050
Joined: July 6th, 2009, 3:18 pm
Location: 808 State

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#2 Post by Mark C Johnson » June 11th, 2019, 12:27 am

Just Wow!
Memes & Tropes

User avatar
William Kelley
Posts: 1380
Joined: June 4th, 2014, 1:36 am
Location: London, Calistoga & Beaune

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#3 Post by William Kelley » June 11th, 2019, 1:01 am

The old Léon Violland wines are always worth looking out for!
The Wine Advocate

User avatar
paul hanna
Posts: 4901
Joined: April 28th, 2010, 10:14 pm

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#4 Post by paul hanna » June 11th, 2019, 3:04 am

A really great night, surprising how well almost every bottle showed, and some were just magnificent!

The 1937 bracket (how often do you see a bracket of ALL 1937's, from the same producer...so cool) was a real treat, with the Clos Vougeot a standout.

Image

The 1969 Leroy Montrachet was superb, so fresh and hard to believe it was a '69 (it's in the first glass on the left).

Image

Lots of other neat wines, like the '76 Avery's De Vogue (probably a Bonnes Mares with the Avery's gold GC label - direct from John Avery).

Image

And to finish, a Cognac from 1878! Along with some amazing Chinese food, not much more you could ask for!

User avatar
Dennis Atick
Posts: 6478
Joined: January 27th, 2009, 6:48 pm
Location: East Atlanta

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#5 Post by Dennis Atick » June 11th, 2019, 3:57 am

Mark C Johnson wrote:
June 11th, 2019, 12:27 am
Just Wow!
+1
@decaturwinedude

Jayson Cohen
Posts: 1779
Joined: July 9th, 2016, 4:29 pm
Location: New York, NY

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#6 Post by Jayson Cohen » June 11th, 2019, 4:54 am

Wow. Thank you for sharing this.

Joshua Kates
GCC Member
GCC Member
Posts: 1153
Joined: October 30th, 2011, 6:31 am

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#7 Post by Joshua Kates » June 11th, 2019, 5:11 am

Yes, amazing, thanks!

User avatar
Jeremy Holmes
Posts: 6549
Joined: April 28th, 2010, 3:50 pm

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#8 Post by Jeremy Holmes » June 11th, 2019, 6:19 pm

Its a pity the '37 Corton didn't show better. A previous bottle was splendid (my note below).

A whiff of strawberry patch greets the nose. After the red fruits and black earth, there's a sweet nuttiness, some leather. sandalwood spice, forest floor and pine needle sap. It is rich and voluminous in the mouth, with excellent depth and so much savoury nuance. It has a velvety feel against the gums, builds through the palate and really fans out on the long finish leaving a salty soy taste once swallowed.
ITB

User avatar
Mattstolz
Posts: 1223
Joined: June 26th, 2017, 7:46 pm
Location: South Carolina

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#9 Post by Mattstolz » June 11th, 2019, 6:37 pm

agreed on the WOW!

Fred C
Posts: 2568
Joined: July 11th, 2011, 10:09 am

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#10 Post by Fred C » June 11th, 2019, 7:10 pm

Any idea where those 69 Leroy whites came from?

The 69 Leroy Meursault Charmes is also ageless. I can’t imagine what the Montrachet must be like.

Thanks for sharing!
Ch!3n

YLee
Posts: 949
Joined: September 20th, 2018, 8:09 am

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#11 Post by YLee » June 11th, 2019, 7:34 pm

Jealous
-¥ 0 ñ 9

User avatar
paul hanna
Posts: 4901
Joined: April 28th, 2010, 10:14 pm

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#12 Post by paul hanna » June 11th, 2019, 10:14 pm

Fred C wrote:
June 11th, 2019, 7:10 pm
Any idea where those 69 Leroy whites came from?

The 69 Leroy Meursault Charmes is also ageless. I can’t imagine what the Montrachet must be like.

Thanks for sharing!
We have had 4 or 5 '69 Leroy whites before, they were a museum release form the domaine around 10 years (?) ago.

This bottle though, may not have been (from the label) and may have been an original bottle.

Will post a pic of it later when I can.

User avatar
Anton D
GCC Member
GCC Member
Posts: 28904
Joined: October 17th, 2013, 11:25 am
Location: Chico, CA

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#13 Post by Anton D » June 11th, 2019, 11:05 pm

I just got a PM from Francoise. He says, “That bastard!”

;)

Thanks for the awe inspector notes!

What a great step back into history!!!
Anton Dotson

What is man, when you come to think upon him, but a minutely set, ingenious machine for turning, with infinite artfulness, the fine red wine of Shiraz into urine?

User avatar
Andrew Hamilton
Posts: 819
Joined: June 28th, 2012, 8:36 pm
Location: Perth, Western Austalia

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#14 Post by Andrew Hamilton » June 12th, 2019, 12:25 am

Glad to see y'all are still on the struggle over east! /s

Thanks for sharing Jeremy.
Don't be an idiot schmelt. It doesn't count unless you go bardownski.

User avatar
paul hanna
Posts: 4901
Joined: April 28th, 2010, 10:14 pm

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#15 Post by paul hanna » June 12th, 2019, 1:20 am

The White Burgs including the 1969 Leroy Montrachet:

Image


2 1940's Champagnes:

Image


The 2 Champagnes in glass:

Image


1945 Violland, 1976 Gold Label De Vogue and 1978 Lamarche:

Image

Herwig Janssen
GCC Member
GCC Member
Posts: 828
Joined: June 19th, 2009, 10:02 am

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#16 Post by Herwig Janssen » June 12th, 2019, 2:20 am

What a great evening . I had this Leroy Montrachet 69 about 10 years ago with similar praise . But glad to see most of the other whites were still fresh too .

Hao Lu
Posts: 54
Joined: October 15th, 2015, 5:02 pm

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#17 Post by Hao Lu » June 12th, 2019, 5:41 am

Dennis Atick wrote:
June 11th, 2019, 3:57 am
Mark C Johnson wrote:
June 11th, 2019, 12:27 am
Just Wow!
+1
+2

C Chan
Posts: 33
Joined: July 8th, 2011, 6:47 am

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#18 Post by C Chan » June 12th, 2019, 6:56 am

Sorry to be ignorant - what is jade tiger abalone?

User avatar
alan weinberg
GCC Member
GCC Member
Posts: 11597
Joined: April 25th, 2009, 1:23 pm

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#19 Post by alan weinberg » June 12th, 2019, 7:12 am

super night. Never had a ‘37. Violland wines are a mark if quality, at least the few I have had.

User avatar
Anton D
GCC Member
GCC Member
Posts: 28904
Joined: October 17th, 2013, 11:25 am
Location: Chico, CA

Re: Magic Night of Aged Burgundy

#20 Post by Anton D » June 12th, 2019, 8:04 am

C Chan wrote:
June 12th, 2019, 6:56 am
Sorry to be ignorant - what is jade tiger abalone?
I think it’s some sort of weird sexual act.
Anton Dotson

What is man, when you come to think upon him, but a minutely set, ingenious machine for turning, with infinite artfulness, the fine red wine of Shiraz into urine?

Post Reply

Return to “Wine Talk”