Friday night we brought a 2005 Kistler “McCrea Vyd” chardonnay and 1988 Leoville Barton (mag) to Proof DSM, with scallops and rib eye steaks. The Kistler was in very nice shape (though not as nice as an 05 McCrea I had a year ago), with the richness and smoke and nuttiness that typically make me think of Meursault. Just ever-so-slightly oxidized, it worked brilliantly with both the scallops and a very decadent marrow starter. My experience with 1988 bordeaux has generally been hit or miss, and fortunately the Leoville Barton tended toward the former. Double decanted two hours prior, as expected it threw off a huge amount of sediment. When it was finally time to pour the wine that emerged was silky textured and delicious, with a “come hither” perfume that I wouldn’t normally associate with this property. It was somewhat one dimensional, but a nice dimension indeed. I tend to think of LB as a marathoner, so I was a bit surprised at the development in this one. Clearly bdx, and if I didn’t know the appellation and vintage I might have guessed Margaux and 78 (though this was not quite in the same ballpark as a Palmer 78 I enjoyed recently). With my wife not drinking, this left several pours for the staff, which the somm (a friend) told me they enjoyed on the porch after hours.
Saturday we enjoyed a 2000 Lamborghini “Campoleone” (mag) at A Posto DSM, with cavatelli and osso bucco. I have long enjoyed this “Super Umbrian” bottling, as it seems to fly a bit below the radar. The mix is 50/50 merlot/sangiovese, though to this taster the sang. is virtually imperceptible. Double decanted, the color is a cloudy maroon, which gives me pause, but the nose is quite pleasant. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen more sediment from a mag – it almost completely filled my strainer! In the glass the wine is a pleasant surprise, with a delightful spicy dark fruit character that takes me to St. Emilion. Clearly the merlot is driving the bus here. Even though the native varietal plays such a minor role, there is a very appealing Old World personality to the wine – unlike, ahem, so many other “super” Italians these days. Whatever the wood treatment, it is nicely integrated at this point. If served blind I might have guessed an older Figeac.
Sunday night we opened a 2010 Domaine Georges Vernay Cote Rotie La Blonde du Seigneur, with kufta off the grill. I love the Northern Rhone, but have been set back somewhat by some recent duds. This one, however, has made me a believer once again. The perfume is pronounced without much coaxing, and it is quite gentle and feminine. There is of course the requisite green olive and blood and bacon, but they remain in the background, lurking behind the sweet fruit. Not quite feral like Levet, nor “wow” like a LaLa, nor racy like cornas, nor regal like hermitage (and I enjoy all of the aforementioned), this occupies its own ground. A silky texture, with a nose that is downright beguiling. I believe this could easily pass for a much older and much more expensive grand cru burgundy – which is a great “ringer” idea for my remaining bottle! In sum: A really beautiful wine, at a “relatively reasonable” price point, in an increasingly expensive neighborhood.