I didn’t put that in all-caps for nothing. Partage is owned and run by, I think, a threesome–Chef Yuri, Pastry Chef Vincent and manager Nicolas–who cut their teeth on various Michelin 1 and 2 stars in the Rhone and Paris, Yuri finishing up as sous-chef at a 1-star before coming out here. Jay, our restaurant-diviner, found this place and I will leave it to him to better describe fully our food, but it was a fan-tastic tasting menu experience and dead-value at, I believe $80 or $90 for a 9-courser.
First, though, Bernie had us go for lunch at Marche Bacchus out in the west end of the city. Lunch was good, and we opened a couple things he brought with him
2012 Taltarni Rose
I forgot how much I enjoy this Aussie rose, Jay had never had one before. This is a good example, throwing off plenty of bubbles and some precise thrust to go with nice cushy red berry and pomegranate-based fruit. A titch of pink grapefruit sneaks in at the end.
2017 T Vine Artist Series/Family White
I think it was a 2017. Super-odd duck here, 80% Gewurtz and the rest Gruner and Riesling. The nose starts out all gewurtz, a lychee festival with melon backing. But dans la bouche, the peppery gruner takes over and pushes the lilting gewurtz to the side. While the component parts are each interesting, there is too much distance for me between the sensory experiences.
With dinner—for my part, fave dishes included the cold beet soup with licorice ice cream and the delicious ostrich.
Aubry de Humbert NV Champagne
On the very crisp and crystalline side, which softens a little with air, there is authority here and quite the nice long spine. I might want a little bit more fruit, but it’s not absent. Very refreshing champagne.
2016 Bevan Cellars Petaluma Gap PN
I like Russell precisely because he goes bold and doesn’t hold too much back. That said, I have found his style of winemaking over the years to have added that just-enough touch of restraint and refinement. This is not by any means an acid-driven pinot, but it has depth and real purity of cherry and strawberry fruit. The duck dish we had teased out some sure sandalwood, rhubarb compote and a bit of cardamom. Rich but has a lot to say.
2016 Kistler Les Noisetiers Chard
Toddlercide of the first order, but no question blind what you’d guess on this and, actually, probably guess a Kistler too. The oak is very much in evidence, from the now-abrupt finish to the vanilla extract component on nose and tongue. There is pear and tropical fruit under it all and I’m confident it should become more harmonious with time, but stay away for now. The scallops dish really tamed this while it clashed with some of the other food.
2016 Vincent Stoeffberg Kirchberg de Barr Ries
A grand cru from Alsace from a new producer for me, this was off their list. A likeable if unassuming wine. Pear, sweet green tea and some quince highlight the scents. To taste, it has a softness and richness about its tropical presentation that reminds me of ZH but without the extra go-gear or presence. Not bad, though.
Tasting menus have to be up your alley, but if they are, I cannot recommend this place highly enough. The service was excellent and engaged and they have an awesome back room for use by 8 or more if that is your fancy.
Maluhia
Mike