Perfect Night: 2002 Chave | 1973 Latour | 1989 Raffault | 2005 Rougeard |1985 Magdelaine

2002 Chave | 1973 Latour | 1989 Raffault | 2005 Rougeard |1985 Magdelaine

Hard to imagine a more perfect night. An impromptu night. Wife out of town. Last minute, invited three of my closest friends over, including fellow Berserker, MarcF.

Grabbed some filet mignon, organic purple potatoes, beets and asparagus. An easy grille night, with roasted vegetables. Smack some gourmet blue cheese on the filet, covered them in sautéed Vidalia onions, voila and we have a dinner.

Started with a 2002 Chave Hermitage Blanc to pair with the cheese and dried meats tray. Had some Nola sardines as well. Love the waxy feel of this wine, with its citrus and honey palate. Have to admit, it’s on its last leg, but showing some class right now. Drink up. (90 pts.)

Moved to the 1973 Chateau Latour as we started cooking the dinner. Had been slow-ox’d for about 2 hours. An amazingly delicious, alive, classy wine. Fuck the crappy vintage; this wine defies vintage. Elegant, with its range of dried red fruits and forest floor. Sweet dried fruits, soft palate, tannins fully integrated. And stayed alive all night. Circled back several hours later, and it was equally enjoyable. Incidentally, some of this wine also went into the sautéed Vidalia onions - scandalous, perhaps, but yum (91 pts.)

Next was the 1989 Raffault Chinon Les Picasses. This wine is on fire. An archetype Chinon. Honestly, best of class. Showcased all the elements that I adore in Chinon, with its hallmark bell pepper, green tobacco leaves, ash and array of red fruits. And these are sweet red fruits, crunchy cranberries and raspberries. Showcased a vein of herbaceousness for character but the fruit carried the day. Excellent depth and intensity of fruit. (93 pts.)

The 2005 Rougeard Les Poyeux was poured and enjoyed side-by-side with the Raffault. This is a whole ‘nother level of Loire Cab Franc. Arguably the best that I have had. Amazing the depth of expression coupled with the freshness of any wine that I have had before. Layers of red and dark fruits, forest floor and citrus, but underscored by a depth of intensity that was youth personified. This wine has miles to go but is shockingly good at present. If you have several, pop one now. If not, hold on for dear life, this wine will eclipse the famous 1989 and 1990 Raffaults, no competition. (96 pts.)

Midway through dinner, with a filet just excellent, grilled super hot to a medium rare on the rare side temperature, and we ran out of wine. I had in mind that 1985 Chateau Magdelaine, Saint Emilion. So we popped it. Popped and poured. Stunning. Like drop-dead stunning. And shockingly youthful. I would have guess 1998 or 2000. No way a 1985. Didn’t even have any bricking on the meniscus. Classic red fruit nose of slightly under-ripe merlot and ripe Cab Franc. Hint of menthol. Forest floor, dry earth, porcini mushrooms. And with a sweet, ripe, intensely red-fruited palate. Blood orange citrus. So bright and fresh. A truly outstanding Saint Emilion, and of a type that I doubt we will see again. (95 pts.).

Truly blessed this night. All wines fired on all cylinders. And my friends, best of class.

you lost me at filet mignon

I think that 89 Raffault has the most green funk I’ve ever gotten on a nose. Like being attacked by peppercorns. Absolutely lovely body though.

Thanks for the great notes. I am a 73 birth year so will keep watch for Latour- Mouton and Lafite are really beyond it at this point.

Nice to see another 85 Magdelaine TN. The most overtly floral mature vintage I have yet tried. And like you said, nothing coming out today is going to be anything like it in time.

Sounds like fun! What a line-up! I’ve been looking for some Raffault 89 for years, but sadly to no avail so far. I’ve never had the Rougeard and sadly at the current price I’m unlikely to, so I enjoyed reading about it. As to the Latour 73, that too was interesting to read about - I can’t remember where, but I read somewhere that Les Forts was actually better that year - is there any truth to this? Anyway, great notes - cheers!

. f*ck the crappy vintage; this wine defies vintage.

That goes not only for 1973 Latour.
1973, 1974, 1979, 1981 Magdelaine are performing extremely well IMO
But of course at a lower level than 1970, 1975, 1985 and 1989
Thanks Robert. Great prose describing 1985 Magdelaine

Yea, nothing here for your hipster palate. Even stone crabs were out of season!

That 1985 Magdelaine is going to become the stuff of legends. A truly great wine, and almost impossible to find.

You had a dump bucket handy I hope.

Sounds like an awesome evening and some great wines. Life is good.

Lol, buddy. I think you would have loved the other wines, even the Rougeard. So cool when all wines perform on that one night. I’m hurting right now…

There’s btl variation. Best ones don’t have much green funk.

I have to admit, Robert. Even this full-on child of the ‘70s raised an eye brow at filet mignon.

Why? Solid piece of meat, leaner than most. Kinda like me.

Charlie, it’s Florida.

Sounds like a great night. Love it when everything comes together like that with close friends.

As to filet: I’m sure the blue cheese and onions made up for the flavor deficit vs. rib eye, etc. I like a bit of seared foie gras atop filet. And nothing quite matches the texture of filet. Now that Robert is too old to buy young Bordeaux he needs a cut that is not too difficult to chew.

Le Boeuf is passé? Or just the filet?

Pat perhaps these older folks just need more flavor, you know, aging palates like Parker. Soon drinking Saint Rollandos and 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape! And we know Fu needs flavor.

This. Bernard Morillon in Beaune did a filet topped with seared foie gras and grilled pineapple I had once that was phenomenal.

You and your chicken wings…