TNs--The Weird and Wonderful--Paolo Bea, D'Arlay, Montelena, Gravner, others

This is a little late, but better so than never. Big thanks to Giuseppe and Annette at the restaurant for hosting us so wonderfully. BBers Jay Shampur, Jeff Wong and Peter Papay were joined by our friend Deb and, after much too long away from my wine orbit, my friend Ryan Speller.

2012 Colet Navajos Extra Brut

We asked manager Annette for a sparkling reco for our theme, though I was keen on this one and she agreed. This has a nice breadth to it once it opens in the glass. Baked bread and light apple and nut notes seem to play here. No extra levels to speak of, but more than satisfying as a starter

2009 J L Chave Selection Hermitage Blanche

This seemed quite correct to me and ready to drink. It offers flowery aromatics and a creamy mouthfeel with some pit fruit and honey nuances. It’s not Ermitage, but it’s a fair representation of this entry-level. No rush, mind but it doesn’t need any more cellar time

2007 Gravner Bianco Breg

The wine on the restaurant list that spurred the theme. It got about an hour’s decant. Fun-filled bouquet of saline, florals and dabs of peach pit and nougat. Those continue on the tongue, adding linseed oil and aniseed and it’s gloriously multifaceted…for 20 minutes. Then it stops, and swan dives off a cliff soon after. Jay and I have both had other vintages and we looked at each other and said ‘huh?’ Was it the vintage? I suspect less-than-good provenance before it arrived in the restaurant’s cellar since no Gravner Breg should behave that way

2015 Paola Bea Santa Chiara Umbria Bianco

Stunning deep bourbon colour. And stunning wine (this is an orange wine). Scents start off sort of a mulchy-mineral mix, but unripe citrus steals in. Tremendous palate presence adds a marzipan component and steely acidity, yet with ripe yellow fruit too and that slight oxidative character that only deepens in elegance through the night…the last sip, 4 hours later, was the best. Huge thanks to Peter for bringing this WOTN, 6 days later it had, of anything, only gotten more energetic and lean—-no honey notes now

2002 Château Montelena Estate Cab

Ryan brought this at my request, as I haven’t had a 2002 in some time. We popped and poured and I think it was the right choice. The chocolate/mocha notes that I recall about this Napa vintage are on display, along with a sturdy cherry and currant base. A little warm on alcohol, but it fits just fine. This is drinking really well and is probably my #3

2009 Château d’Arlay Vin de Paille

Something some of the group hadn’t tried and I’m pleased it showed well. It certainly needed every minute of the 8 hour decant I ordered for it. That nutty, sherried tonality is unmistakeable, but hay, honey and cooked apricot weave in and out of this thing and certain truffle comes shining through later. Such an oddball, there is a distinguished character that holds it all together. #2 and no surprise still full of life 6 days later

2011 Fontodi Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo

Glad Jeff brought this as I’ve never had this cuvée of theirs and have tried very little from this vintage in the region. We tried to help this with a 2.5 hour decant but alas—-toddlercide all the same. A big cedar hit introduces spiced black fruit, but it’s all enveloped in rugged tannins and frame for now. If it ever rounds out, that will take 15 years at least and I’m not sure ‘harmonious’ will ever be an adjective I’d use. Nevertheless, grateful to be able to try

Thank you Mike for the spot on notes and being an enabler for my first D’Arlay experience. Needless to say it won’t be my last one.

It was great to see familiar faces and make new acquaintances. The invigerating conversation was matched by great wines and excellent food. Missing our master of photography (Tran Bronstein) we lacked on documenting this lovely evening with pictures. I believe it must be the first time that I did not take any picture which stands as testament for the good time we had.

Here are some of our menu items:

Grilled Broccolini with smoked anchovy, berkswell, raw egg yolk and tarragon (stunning texture)
Scallop Crudo with rhubarb, castelfranco, crème fraiche and cilantro
Grilled wild Onion with guernsey milk ricotta, summer truffle and rye bread
Green Asparagus with snow peas, pickled ginger and sake kasu dressing
Hen of the Woods Mushrooms with onion / yeast puree, cured egg yolk and mushroom chips
Beef Flank Tartar (PEI beef) with lumpfish caviar, smoked mayo, king oyster and watercress