TN: Jailbreak Wine Dinner - 08 Cristal, 16 PYCM Remilly and etc.

JAILBREAK WINE DINNER - 08 CRISTAL, 16 PYCM REMILLY AND ETC. - St. Anselm (5/1/2019)

Justin organized a wine gather with some of his brewer buddies who are also passionate about wine. Ten of us got together to drink a wide spectrum of wines. This was the first time dining at St. Anselm. The dishes were incredibly delicious and complemented the wines well.

Champagne
The 08 Cristal is the real deal!

  • 2006 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon - France, Champagne
    Very pale pink, the nose and the palate clearly reflect. Beautiful harmonious nose displaying subtle light red fruit, raspberry water, cherry soda, copper, smoked salmon and coppery mineral. Very polished palate, pale red fruit, more like pink, medium abundant very fine mousse, good acidity and mineral, and a long subtle pale red fruit driven finish with copper and smoke at the end. Drinking beautifully but not sure how this will age. (94 pts.)
  • 1998 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne
    Mildly corked. NR (flawed)
  • 2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne
    For those who love the richness and the concentration of Cristal, the 08 also adds the incredible precision and focus, reminding me the 96 Salon upon release a bit. Perhaps it is slightly less precise and the fruit is richer and sweeter. This is drinking incredibly well in a youthful way but will improve for a few more decades if cellared properly. (98 pts.)

White Burgundy

  • 2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
    Youthful expressive nose displaying rich concentrated yellow fruit, lemon curd, a hint of pineapple, apple, coconut, matchstick, sesame, lanoline, spicy spices and limestone mineral. Excellent concentration, nicely layered concentrated yellow fruit, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of sesame at the end. The concentrated fruit makes it very user friendly, yet the complex expression makes it a serious wine. Excellent showing. (93 pts.)
  • 2016 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
    Expressive energetic nose displaying sweet yellow fruit with a hint of white, pineapple, apple, white peach, pine needle, subtle butter scotch and limestone. Ripe yet refreshing palate, finely layered delicious yellow and white fruit, very good balance and precision, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long sweet yellow and white fruit driven finish with a hint of butter scotch and pine needle at the end. This is drinking incredible well. (94 pts.)

Sonoma White

  • 2010 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Like the last bottle, seems riper and heavier. Medium expressive nose displaying very ripe yellow fruit, yellow peach, lemon curd, pineapple, butter scotch, sesame, spicy spices and earth. Excellent concentration, packed very ripe yellow fruit, good acidity, medium mineral, dense and deeply toned, and a medium to long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with sesame at the end. There is a hint of heat. Although there is a lot more material here, not as interesting as the two white Burgundies. (93 pts.)
  • 2014 Morlet Family Vineyards La Proportion Doree - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Expressive nose displaying very ripe fruit, overripe kiwi, passion fruit, lychee, honeysuckle and sweet spices. Exceptional concentration, packed concentrated tropical fruit, round and warm, dense and deeply toned, good acidity, medium mineral and a medium to long rich ripe yellow fruit driven finish. This is an exotic ripe wine that shows a good bit of Sauvignon Blanc profile. (94 pts.)
  • 2013 Aubert Chardonnay Lauren Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    As usual, a lot of everything. Intense nose displaying ripe yellow fruit with a hint of white, white peach, pear, a hint of match stick, lanoline, sesame and wet stone. Excellent concentration, coiled concentrated yellow fruit, dense and slightly heavy, bright acidity and mineral and a long dense yellow fruit driven finish. This is a big scale concentrated Chardonnay, a typical Aubert profile. I prefer the 14 Aubert Chardonnays which are fresher and slightly less concentrated. (94 pts.)

Bordeaux

  • 1986 Château Talbot - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
    Incredibly youthful expressive nose displaying currant, crème de cassis, a hint of bell pepper, lead pencil, smoke, ash, perfume and limestone. Fully integrated youthful palate, very finely layered fresh blue fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, still showing slightly coarse tannins and a long seamless cassis driven finish with ash and lead pencil at the end. This is a classic claret that is drinking beautifully. The best example of the 86 Talbot. (96 pts.)
  • 1990 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Initially a bit musty but quickly blows off. Expressive hedonistic nose displaying opulent black fruit, cremes de cassis, crushed blueberry, black cherry, roasted fruit, caramel, cedar, a hint of black truffle, lead pencil and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of opulent black fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity, good mineral expression, fine tannins and a seamless long black fruit driven finish with lead pencil at the end. Beautifully expressing the 90 ripe black fruit yet remains very classic. Excellent showing. (97 pts.)

Clos du Caillou

  • 2001 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve le Clos du Caillou - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Perfectly mature yet youthful CDP nose displaying ripe black fruit, blackberry liqueur, black cherry, cherry pie, fruitcake, strong tobacco, garrigue, dark spices, tapenade, a hint of lavender and earth. Fully integrated palate, layers upon layers of ripe black fruit, unctuous yet silky and polished, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long concentrated black fruit driven finish with strong tobacco and garrigue at the end. Although very concentrated, it maintains the classic CDP profile without overdone. (96 pts.)

Syrah

  • 2007 Sine Qua Non Syrah Labels - USA, California, Central Coast
    Intense nose displaying concentrated black fruit, blackberry liqueur, black cherry, mocha, ink, licorice, black pepper, tapenade, a hint of garrigue, dark spices, smoked meat and limestone. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, dense and unctuous yet silky and polished, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long intense black fruit driven finish with smoke and black pepper at the end. Although it remains very youthful, drinking nicely. (95 pts.)
  • 2012 Saxum Broken Stones - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
    Even more concentrated than the SQN label. For my palate, this is too big and too ripe. There is also noticeable heat at the end. Impressive concentration. It can be enjoyed like Port. YMMV. (92 pts.)

The Duel

  • 2008 Sine Qua Non Syrah The Duel - USA, California, Central Coast
    En magnum. This is the quintessential SQN Syrah. If you are a fan of extended bottle age SQN wines, you will find everything you love in this wine. Big but controlled, noticeable oak via coconut, cream and mocha. It is what it is. If you are a fan, this should be a three digit wine. (97 pts.)

Cult Cab

  • 2012 Futo - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
    Expressive nose displaying intense black fruit, crème de cassis, blueberry liqueur, ink, licorice, caramel, liquid smoke, lavender, lead pencil, strong oak and crushed rock. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, dense and chewy yet silky, good acidity, strong mineral, most masked tannins due to concentrated fruit, and a long intense black fruit driven finish. This is a textbook cult cab showing intense luxurious fruit and luxurious oak. (95 pts.)
  • 2007 Sloan - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Incredibly youthful nose displaying intense black fruit, crème de cassis, crushed blue berry, cabernet floral dust, perfume, ink and earth. Excellent concentration, concentrated slightly coiled black fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity, strong mineral, still noticeable tannins and a long concentrated black fruit driven finish with a hint of ink. This remains incredibly youthful and structured. (95 pts.)

A great time was had by all!
Posted from CellarTracker

We had the '86 Talbot a few months back, and I cannot agree more on your note here. Real toss up between the '82 and this bottle for best ever from this chateau.

86 Talbot is absolutely stunning. Great notes.

Great notes.

Feel lucky to have had most of the French wines here in the last year. ‘08 Cristal really is that good. As are the Latour, Talbot, and Mouches Blanc.

A friend opened the 2002 Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon last Fall, and it was singing. Gorgeous. Fine bubbles, elegant, and flavorful. If that’s any indication on ageability of the ‘06 - that one I haven’t had. (Might note for folks who don’t get it from the note that it’s a Rose.)

Just to pile on with how well the 1986 Talbot is drinking, a few of us had it alongside wines like 1989 Las Cases and 1989 Lynch Bages at a dinner party in January, and it easily held its own–with several of us having it right at the top. I wish I had some in the cellar.

-Michael

Piling on with more praise for the 1986 Talbot, it was one of the first wines I ever bought and it has remained one of my favorites over the past 25 years. I’m unfortunately down to my last two bottles and it will be a blow when I drink my last.

Michael, nice to see you posting again. I always appreciated your notes, particularly because it seemed like almost every set of notes you posted included at least one wine I had in my cellar.

Thanks, Mike! I have a few thousand unpublished notes from the past 3 1/2 years. Maybe I’ll get back to posting here, I’ve come to miss the dialogue.

i see sqn so assuming justin is bonner
miss the days of all his notes

He is around, making serious beer but also still drinking serious wine.

It’s me and I’m still alive. Busy building a beer empire but still finding time to consume plenty of wine. Kevin’s notes are spot on. Regarding SQN, I think I’m convinced that SQN produced over the past 5-7yrs are made for even longer aging than those being made in the late 90s and early 2000’s. While they’ve become dramatically more concentrated, I find them harder to drink young. Great for people with patience but difficult for someone like me with none. I don’t drink a ton of domestic wines but when I do, SQN is still top of the list. And as for that 08 Cristal…f’n stunner!