Mark, thank you for your kind invitation to this event. I greatly enjoyed meeting so many serious wine connoisseurs who were generous with their knowledge, and I appreciate the wonderful meal, beautiful setting and generous hospitality extended by you, Nancy and even Oliver once we got to know each other. It was a splendid afternoon.
Following are my own notes.
1996 Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru Clos St. Jacques
light cherry red color just starting to brick, on the nose unexpectedly serene, cherries, the barest hints of wet animal fur, on the palate quite young still and very tightly coiled, firm tannin and structure, mid to full weight fruit still in hiding to some degree, fine finish with a lengthy fragrant aftertaste, game, cherries, chalk tones, continues to build in scale with air but remains deft, at a point where a few very storied 1996s are starting to get a bit dusty on the tail end- this remains balanced and evolving at a glacial pace, exceptional potential here and I think this wine’s best days will be upon us soon.
(*****), 2026-2046
1990 J.L. Chave Hermitage rouge
purple-red color just starting to brick, marvelously rich nose, cherries and dark fruits, saddle leather, bacon, and yet regal in tone despite its decadent elements, on the palate all the promise on the nose delivered, fully ripe fruit- plums, cherries, berry, playful gamey notes, despite all of the development this still feels very young to me, certainly ready for indulging now- but it seems to have decades left to go and potentially more glories to reveal.
*****, now to 2040
1982 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild
deep red purple color with some bricking, aggressive roasted cassis on the nose, on the palate monolithic and somewhat muted, fiercely structured with tight fruit, with time in glass it unwinds to some degree to show intense fruitcake notes, a chocolate like sweetness and loads of rich cassis fruit, I personally think it needs more time but despite its reluctance today there is a decadence here which is quite evident and in contrast to the more pure and massive feel of the 1986 tasted alongside, I should also note that given how old this wine already is- I think there is a risk it may never fully blossom in the way I would hope.
***(), 2028-2075
1986 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild
young dark purple color, massive nose, cassis, fruitcake, dark plums, pepper notes, on the palate a voluptuous and piercingly pure core of ripe fruit on a scale rarely seen in a wine that is also properly balanced and fully showing its breed, the palate a near-mirror of the nose with cassis, fruitcake and cherry notes, white mineral streaks with time, still incredibly tannic but with time in glass these softened to a sufficient degree to reveal an excellent balances that convinces me at long last that this wine will go the distance and unfurl as may of us had dreamed it might, a glorious wine with a purity the 1982 will never have, and at this point my personal favorite of the two great titans of Bordeaux’s Golden Decade.
*(), 2031-2075
1990 Chateau Latour
deepish garnet color with slight bricking at the rim, classic cedar and cassis nose, on the palate a fine depth of ripe cassis fruit, soft tannins resolving, fine length, still a bit of oak sticking out on the palate, surprisingly relaxed and friendly but this bottle also seems to be a somewhat reserved, following on the heels of 82 and 86 Mouton might impact that impression, an elegant Latour and most enjoyable- but this bottle was somewhat reluctant to show its full glory, possibly a passing phase.
**** for this bottle, now to 2035.
1962 Gros-Renaudot Clos Vougeot
color almost completely bricked, beetroot and aged Pinot on the nose, a bit medicinal with gravel notes, ripe cherries with time, on the palate surprisingly good with a great depth and freshness of fruit than originally suggested by the nose, plums, soft and subtle developed spices, good length, exceptional persistence and perfume, past its best but still attractive.
***, drink soon
1970 Bouchard La Romanee
pale red color with heavy bricking, dark spice and cloves on the nose, dried cherries, savory herbs, on the palate plummy and most of all- spicy, velvety and alluring on the middle but ever so slightly hard around the edges, I have had a number of 1970s over the years and this is surely the finest one I have yet tried, and to answer the inevitable question that arises when one tastes La Romanee- this bottle has the volume and almost the relative proportion of spice that one might expect of a Romanee-Conti of similar age and vintage quality, but not anywhere near the spherical presentation or digitally defined detail, that said- this remains a very successful 1970 and even in the presence of some legendary wines I very much enjoyed it.
****, now to 2025, time in hand but I would drink fairly soon unless you want to save one for a particular milestone occasion or vertical tasting
1962 Comte de Vogue Musigny
pale orange red color, a ravishing and decadent nose of dark cherries, rose petal, baking spices, on the palate a wine of impressive scale and yet deft as a ballerina, layered, luscious, cherry and floral notes throughout on the palate interspersed with an infinitesimally complex and delicate web of spice notes, with time a blueberry note emerged, length to burn with an intensely fragrant aftertaste, as with the handful of great Musignys I have tried- this is truly thrilling, no other word says it better, so delicate and yet persistent, fresh and yet savory, even days later the spine tingles at the memory of the sheer passion of this wine, possibly the finest mature Musigny I have ever tasted. In a good place still, but at the very tail end of the finish this is starting to show signs that a long and very slow decline is imminent. Time in hand, but I would enjoy this sooner rather than later.
*****, now to 2027
1962 Vega Sicilia Unico
bright red young color, chocolate, dark fruits and polished earth on the nose, on the palate find depth with a smooth and seamless fruit leading into a long and fragrant finish, on the palate cherry and intense blueberry notes, chiseled grey stone edges, there is a lot going on here but the wine is still very primary and will need more time to fully reveal itself, drinking beautifully today but worth saving a few to see what comes in time. I have not had many vintages of Vega Sicilia Unico, but this strikes me as a particularly elegant example.
*****, now to 2040+
