Many sorries for how late I’m getting around to these. It has become an integral part of my FallTacular experience now that the Sunday evening is spent at Paul and his lovely wife’s Sandy’s house in Altadena. Joining us were “the usual suspects”—i.e. Rob, Beth, Megan and Brandon Bastuba (with Brandon’s wife Sandy), Rob and Fely Berry and Dave and Marjorie Thompson. This time, I had extra fun in that my close friend Heather, who had come down for her second FallTac, decided to extend her trip as well and got to experience this for the first time. It is absolute fun to watch Paul and Rob have such a good time together and the “____ of the night” was the tremendous camaraderie and good feelings among friends here. Around mains of Lasagna, we had a bunch of interesting stuff. I didn’t take formal notes but here goes:
2013 Pierre Paillard Les Parcelles Bouzy Grand Cru
I’m still not going to put this in Salon or Cristal or Vilmart territory, but this–Heather’s bring from a mag—was nevertheless quite precise and already approachable. The bubbles and mix of yellow fruit and baked bread seemed to fan out a bit with time in the glass and the mouth. Nice champagne here
2003 Chateau Beaucastel Roussanne VV
I brought this. One never knows with these—although it formed the basis for the night’s theme – “interesting wines”—I have to say that this, while having the basic characteristics of a middle-aged one of these, didn’t have any of the authority or presence of, say, my 2006 version of this. Waxy and honeyed with a bit of plantain drifting through, it was rather limpid on the tongue and seemed tired.
2004 Dagueneau Pur Sang
One of Paul’s, this was NOT tired. One worries about premox with these (I’ve had one or two that were), but this one wasn’t. And when they’re not, what you get is a pristine and riveting bottle of wine. Fabulously demure focus, the flint and chalk are here, but in such a beautiful undertone to white fruits and a precise freshness that is difficult to describe. Completely absorbing wine for me, WOTN and early-line favourite for WOTY. Really, for SB, the 1999 Haut Brion Blanc I had a number of years ago in Atlanta is probably the only thing in this class.
1998 Arcadian Sleepy Hollow PN
I think Dave brought this one. What’s amazing is that it remains so very kinetic, still unkinking itself, but probably at the beginning of its prime window. “Steely” red berry fruit is on display and there’s buttressing structure and acid. I’d still decant this today, 20 years out. Best in 4-5 years.
2008 Ceritas Porter Bass Chard
This seemed fine maturity-wise and has plenty of baked apple and a bit of pineapple flavor with a little leftover toffee, but the overall product didn’t leave a lot of memorable with me. To be fair, Porter-Bass is a vineyard of theirs I haven’t taken to as I have some of their others.
1964 Spanna
This was still super-fun—not quite as much leave-and-length as the bottle we opened last year, but still the slightly-dried raspberry and strawberry and small blackcurrant fruit teases the palate. I think Paul got these for something like $10 per. Lots of enjoyment here.
Jean Boudry Cremant de Jura Rose
I brought this one as well, I’ve had Cremant de Jura, but never a Rose. This seemed to strike a balance between the lengthy super-dry of e.g. Tempier and something with more raspberry and slight pink grapefruit nuance. I liked it without loving it.
2011 Cameron Nebbiolo
Well, interesting for sure! What I liked here is that this had some character to it, and for me, I think it had varietal character, with earthiness, some dark strawberry elements and a certain tangy-but-chewy feel dans la bouche. It put on body with some air and engendered plenty of conversation.
1998 Mayacamas Chard
I think this had the most variance in views of the night, with many really liking it and me thinking it was past. My hunch is that it declined quickly after opening, but there may be just as much faulty memory on my part. Paul may chime in on this one, and I’ll welcome his thoughts.
2016 Caroline Morey Chassagne Rouge
Just the villages, another one of mine (I had a bunch of wines delivered to the hotel prior to FallTac and couldn’t take them all home 
). Good winemaking here, with the ruggedness and sappy fruit I myself associate with these, but (perhaps obviously) opened quite a bit too young, even though I gave it a full day’s slow-ox. I’d like to check back in a few years.
2017 Model Farm Syrah
We had rescued this bottle from FallTacular and it was absolutely rocking. Terrific presentation of red plum and crabapple fruit as the core to some minerality and very light cocoa dusting. The frame is very precise and fits the flavor profile really well. As strong as they’ve been out of the gate, this could be Sean and Joanna’s best one yet.
2005 Prive Vineyard Le Nord
Sorry to say, I just don’t have notes or memory about this one, other than it was ripely drinkable.
1964 Siglo Cosccha
Beside the Spanna, this was a still-somewhat-elegant but rather faded bottle. Enjoyed for what it was, with light leather pings around faint red fruit.
2014 Aeris Etna Bianco
Made from Carricante, IIRC this had a lot of vibrancy and zing and palate presence, but without being able to really narrow down identifiable fruit. Somewhat floral bouquet. Another that fits into “interesting wines” theme.
This is a night I can’t do without anymore, and my undying thanks to Paul and Sandy especially, for opening their home to all of us, and a further special thanks to Rob and Fely for opening their home to Heather and I to stay over.
Maluhia,
Mike