TN: Annual gathering with Chicago winos in Chicago – DRC RSV vertical, Selosse – Lieux-Dits and etc.

ANNUAL GATHERING WITH CHICAGO WINOS IN CHICAGO – DRC RSV VERTICAL, SELOSSE – LIEUX-DITS AND ETC. - Smyth and The Loyalist - Chicago IL (3/23/2019)

This was the eleventh year of sharing great wines with the Chicago crew. It was started in 2009 when Justin Bonner organized his first SQN blowout charity dinner in DC. Since then, there were one or two annual gatherings every year. I was lucky enough to join the festivity since 2014. This time the DC crew traveled to Chicago.

fFr the third consecutive year, the dinner was held at the private room of Smyth restaurant. The tasting menu had a few familiar dishes that were still memorable and also a few new ones that were well thought out, imaginative and perfectly executed. Richie did a perfect job providing wine service.

Selosse Lieux-dits and the 95 Krug
The Selosse Lieux-dits were all very distinctive yet also clearly expressed the house style.

  • NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Les Carelles - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
    Complex fully mature nose displaying apricot, apple pie, apple cider, apple vinegar, sherry, almond cookie, cinnamon, nutmeg, butter scotch and limestone. Rich concentrated palate, sweet ripe yellow fruit, a hint of sugar, medium fine generous mousse, bright acidity and mineral, and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of almond paste and sherry at the end. This particular bottle shows more sherry than usual, close to Substance than Initial. The oxidative style is not for everyone so YMMV. (95 pts.)
  • NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
    Complex fully mature nose displaying rich yellow fruit, peach, apricot, sour apple, toffee, a hint of coffee, ginger candy, almond paste, roasted nuts, honey, cinnamon, nutmeg and limestone. Excellent concentration, medium fine generous mousse, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with ginger candy and almond paste at the end. It is fresher than Les Carelles and shows a very little oxidative note. Very consistent showing. (96 pts.)
  • NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Premier Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Mareuil-sur-Ay Sous le Mont - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
    Very vinous nose displaying shy red fruit with a hint of yellow, a hint of raspberry, raspberry soda, strawberry candy, dry peach, smoked salmon, brioche, cinnamon, candied ginger and limestone. Very good concentration, subtle yet rich concentrated red fruit with a hint of yellow, fine medium generous mousse, bright acidity and mineral, and a long rich red fruit driven finish with cinnamon at the end. The fruit expression is delicate like Krug Rose, but the body is decisively richer and fuller. (96 pts.)
  • 1995 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
    Fully mature nose displaying decadent yellow fruit, tarte tatin, apricot, tangerine, brioche, smoke, cinnamon and limestone mineral. Fully integrated plate, concentrated sweet yellow fruit, medium fine generous mousse, bright acidity and strong mineral and a long rich ripe yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of brioche and cinnamon at the end. This is a riper and sweet style or Krug that is drinking beautifully. (96 pts.)

Raveneau Blanchot
I enjoyed both but Al thought the 09 was very reductive.

  • 2009 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Medium expressive nose displaying slightly coiled yellow fruit, lemon oil, fresh lemon, pear, strong beeswax, white flower, sea breeze, a hint of flint, white pepper, light honey, mint, spicy spices and wet stone. Very good concentration, coiled perfectly ripe white and yellow fruit, medium acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long coiled ripe yellow fruit driven finish. Very precise and slightly lean as it has shed the opulent ’09 fruit. Al thinks it is heavily reduced but I like it. (94 pts.)
  • 2010 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Very energetic nose displaying perfectly ripe white and yellow fruit, pear, lemon curd, honey, flint, beeswax, sesame, a hint of coconut, cool mountain stream and wet stone. Very precise palate, nicely layered yellow fruit, oily yet beautifully focused and not heavy, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long fresh yellow fruit driven finish with beeswax and sesame at the end. This displays classic Raveneau style, i.e. opulent and concentrated yet fresh and energetic fruit, and oily yet precise and focused palate. (96 pts.)

2012 Batard
I really liked the 12 Ramonet, very precise and harmonious.

  • 2012 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Expressive nose displaying ripe succulent yellow fruit, lemon curd, apple sauce, yellow peach, candied ginger, flint, spicy spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, layers jupon layers of concentrated yellow fruit, dense and oily without losing precision and focus, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of flint at the end. Similar weight as the 12 Bernard Moreau but fresher. Excellent showing. (95 pts.)
  • 2012 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Medium expressive nose displaying very ripe and deeply toned rich yellow fruit, yellow peach, lemon curd, a hint of crème brulee and sweet spices. Excellent concentration, concentrated ripe yellow fruit, dense and oily, good acidity and mineral and a medium to long very ripe yellow fruit driven finish. Decisively the ripest expression and the most concentrated. I am not sure how this will age. (91 pts.)
  • 2012 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Exquisite nose displaying fresh yellow and white fruit, pear, apple, lemon curd, Ramonet mint, smoke, flint and limestone. Perfectly balanced palate, very finely layered fresh white fruit, intense yet very precise and airy, perfect amount of acidity, strong flint mineral, and a seamless clean long finish with a hint of flint and mint at the end. The most sophisticate wine of the flight. If served blind, I would have guessed Chevalier Montrachet. (92 pts.)

92, 96 & 98 RSV
They all showed very young. I really loved the 96.

  • 1993 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Incredibly youthful nose displaying vibrant red fruit, cranberry juice, raspberry, caramel, strong stem, Vosne spice, hot cinnamon candy, tree bark and earthy mineral. Fully integrated youthful palate, very finely layered subtle yet bright red fruit, rich and precise, medium acidity, strong mineral accentuated by the strong stem note, noticeable slightly coarse tannins and a medium to long bright red fruit driven finish with stem and cinnamon at the end. Although the fruit is slightly lean, the palate is rich and concentrated which is interesting. It still needs another decade of cellaring as sous bois has not emerged yet and the structure is still quite firm. The most youthful showing of the flight. (94 pts.)
  • 1996 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    The color of the 96 DRCs is fascinating, always close to black and slightly murky. The best way to identify the vintage in blind tasting. Incredibly complex and expressive nose displaying opulent slightly dry black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, black cherry, raspberry, sap, strong sous bois, Chinese medicine, Vosne spice, black truffle, soy, caramel, a hint of stem, grilled porcini, and earth. Fully integrated palate, layers upon layers of opulent black fruit, rich and deeply toned, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral and a long decadent black fruit driven finish with Chinese medicine and cinnamon at the end. This is drinking incredibly well but no need to hurry. (97 pts.)
  • 1998 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Very youthful medium expressive nose displaying subtle bright red fruit, cherry candy, cranberry soda, strong cedar and stem, cinnamon, tree bark and earth. Medium concentration, subtle red fruit, slightly lean, bright acidity, strong stem mineral and mouth puckering tannins that clips the finish. It is a bit unforgiving. Still needs time but shy fruit is worrisome. Al mentions that DRC did not do so well in 98 and I have to agree. (92 pts.)

07 RSV vs Richebourg

  • 2007 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
    Served blind along with the 07 RSV. Medium expressive nose displaying ripe black fruit, black cherry, blackberry, a hint of sous bois and stem, Vosne spice, soy, grilled porcini, caramel, sap and earth. Fully integrated palate, generous black fruit, good acidity and mineral, nicely resolved tannins and a medium to long black cherry driven finish with sap and stem at the end. The mid palate is slightly hollow and there is a hint of oxidative note, both which I have often found in the 07 Red Burgundy. It seems more ready than the 07 RSV which displays redder fruit and more vibrant. I am not sure how this will develop. (94 pts.)
  • 2007 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Served blind along with the 07 Richebourg. Expressive youthful nose displaying vibrant red fruit, cherry pie, strawberry jam, cranberry, noticeable stem, cinnamon, nut met, tree bark and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered vibrant red fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity, good stemmy mineral, a hint of slightly coarse tannins and a long bright red fruit driven finish with a hint of stem and cinnamon at the end. More red fruit and youthful than the 07 Ricehbroug but perhaps not as complex. It can benefit from another decade of cellaring. (95 pts.)

09, 10, 11 and 12 RSV
They were served single blind. The 10 was exceptional. I was surprised by how well the 11 showed, no sign of LBT.

  • 2010 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Beautiful harmonious nose displaying perfectly ripe black and red fruit, blackberry, raspberry jelly, delicate caramel, sap, a hint of Vosne spice, sweet spices, a hint of stem and limestone mineral. Perfectly balanced sophisticated palate, very finely layered raspberry and black cherry, silky and weightless, perfect amount of acidity and mineral and a seamless long finish with sap and light caramel at the end. This is the best balanced and most polished wine of the flight. Excellent showing, my guess is the 10. (98 pts.)
  • 2012 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Incredibly youthful big scale nose displaying ripe red fruit, strawberry, cherry pie, sugar coated rose pedal, caramel, a hint of stem, smoked meat, tree bark and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of ripe black fruit, dense and deeply toned, medium acidity and mineral, and a long ripe black cherry driven finish with rose and caramel at the end. This is an immense wine. My first guess is the 09 but seems very primary so the 12. (96 pts.)
  • 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Medium expressive nose displaying ripe black fruit, blackberry jam, black cherry, strawberry and rhubarb tart, strong stem, smoke, cinnamon and earth. Excellent concentration, concentrated black fruit, warm and round, good acidity and strong stemmy mineral and a long slightly coiled black fruit driven finish with strong stem at the end. The strong stem note and roundness make me to guess as the 11. This seems to shutdown a bit. (95 pts.)
  • 2011 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Expressive nose displaying bright red fruit, cherry, a hint of blackberry, light caramel, rose, a hint of stem, cappuccino, cinnamon and earthy mineral. Nicely integrated palate, finely layered bright red fruit, silky and round, medium acidity, stemmy mineral and a long clean red fruit driven finish. My guess is the 09 as it is not showing the strong stem note. Really nice showing. (95 pts.)

55 Graham

  • 1955 Graham Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Beautiful fully mature port, subtle dry yellow fruit with a hint of red, dry apricot, dry orange peel, dry peach, strawberry jam and strong cinnamon. Fully integrated palate, very finely layered subtle dry yellow fruit, good acidity, strong mineral and a long subtle yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of cinnamon at the end. (94 pts.)

A great time was had by all! It would be difficult for the DC crew to top this in the fall.
Posted from CellarTracker

Always a killer time with the crew! Thanks for the thorough notes Kevin! For me, the 2010 RsV is the wine to buy from this lineup with the 93 being the biggest surprise.

Wonderful notes on all these - thanks.

super, indeed.

This is always an amazing dinner. Thank you Chicago guys for organizing. I had the remnants of a cold and still the wines were amazing. I was blown away by the Ramonet. That 2010 RSV was amazing. It is worth mentioning that the blind flight prompted a quick bet to see who could nail the 4 vintages and Bonner, the beer guy, nailed all 4!. I dont think anyone else got even three. I know I only got one ha! I also got confirmation that I am not a fan of Selosse wines. Cant wait for DC!

Excellent stuff.

I really appreciate the Raveneau notes, as I have both of those wines. Looks like they are good to go!