Had our annual Doctor’s Lunch at Stamps in Adelaide yesterday.
2012 Domaine Jean Chartron Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru: Some reduction but breathes up to show green melon and intense citrus fruits. It is rich and dense and relatively linear for Barad. An excellent showing.
2012 Geoff Weaver Chardonnay: Sealed with screwcap and in lovely condition. Held its own next to the Batard and showed pristine white peach and lemon fruits. It had a touch of spice and good volume in the mouth. There’s a line of minerally acidity and excellent length.
2014 Au Pied du Mont Chauve Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles: Quite a floral nose with a wisp of smoke and citrus fruits too. Good energy and detail in the mouth.
2014 Philippe Chavy Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles: More intensity and volume than the Chauve Demoiselles. Pure white peach and citrus fruits. Great shape and drive. Clean, minerally finish that lingers.
2012 Coche-Dury Meursault: Petrol reduction and sappy orchard fruits. Dense, deep and supremely youthful. Great intensity and build. So much chalky dry extract on the back-end.
2016 Dog Point Vineyard Chardonnay: Complex aromatics of struck match, white peach, aniseed and fennel. Rich and layered in the mouth. Fresh, vibrant finish.
2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru: Simply wonderful white Burg, close to its apogee. The nose has some spearmint, fresh white peaches, aniseed and flinty mineral. It is rich and intense, but is a wine of great elegance and poise. It is a calm and discreet wine, with latent power and length to burn.
2011 Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot Clos du Prieuré Blanc: Some smoky petroleum notes along with mandarin, fig, cashew and white flowers. There’s a heart of sappy white peach and nice shape and length.
2016 Domaine Thomas Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vide Bourse: Very dense and tight. Explosive white peach and lemon flavours. Excellent volume and superb length. Will be special given time.
2009 Olivier Leflaive Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru: remarkably fresh, with notes of coconut ice, white peach, white flowers and cream. It has strict acid line in the mouth. There are intense citrus flavours and it finishes with outstanding cut.
1964 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus: A beautiful, complete bottle that is a joy to drink. There are tertiary sous bois things along with some cold tea, soy and Asian spice. It is full and vinous, with sensual silky feel against the gums. It has great breadth and leaves a wonderful savoury calling card with a salty, soy-like flavour.
2006 Gros Frère et Sœur Echezeaux, Grand Cru: Very earthy and black fruited. It is slightly chunky in a kind of Clos Vougeot sort of way. It has a heart of black cherry and acidity feels relatively low. The finish is chewy, with some drying oak tannins.
2016 Domaine Daniel Rion et Fils Echezeaux, Grand Cru: A very pretty nose of red and black fruits and purple flowers. It is full, sweet and textured on the palate. Waves of velvety fruits lap around the gums and it finishes with cherry stone coolness.
2013 Domaine Dominique Mugneret Echezeaux En Orveaux: Aromas of berry, earth, smoked meats and Asian spice. There’s some plant matter, slightly vegetal tones (in a good way) and it is only mid-weight but a pleasant wine.
2010 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux, Grand Cru: Just a bit wild, with plenty of sauvage character. It has some freshly grated ginger and bright cherry fruits. There’s good density and underlying minerality. It feels like it has shut down.
2005 Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes, Grand Cru: Some meaty reduction blows off to reveal spiced plum and black cherry fruits. It is rich and velvety, with good depth, breadth and excellent length. Just starting to drink really well.