Buy Every Vintage of X? Why or why not?

With all the hypotheticals being thrown out there, thought I’d add one that’s been on my mind.

The question is – do you buy every vintage of wines/producers you like? If you do, why? If you don’t, why not?

I am really afraid of the tyranny of the vertical. Why do I need to have a series of something from 5 or 10 vintages in a row? For some hypothetical future offline that maybe happens once a year? I am trying really hard to not get sucked into this way of thinking.

Plus, “buy every vintage” is an increasingly impossible burden. There are half a dozen regions/varieties I enjoy, 8 - 10 producers in each region worthy of attention, 6 - 12 interesting bottles from each producer. That’s (six times 9 times 9) 486 bottles per year to buy. Plus other random things I want to try, know I like, etc. That’s way too much wine to buy every year!! Really I need to buy well under 200 bottles a year to keep my cellar under control. So what to cut? Surely I don’t have to buy every vintage. What will I really miss out on?

Some examples
– Champagne has very widely varying years. 2008 is great. 2011 not so much. 2009/2010 some good wines. It seems to make sense to me to buy more of 2008, some of 2009, maybe skip 2011 entirely.
– Barolo doesn’t vary as much, but I’ve certainly bought more in 2010 and 2013 than in 2011, 2012, 2014. The last year instead of buying 2014 Barolos I’ve been buying more 2006/8/10/13.
– Burgundy is harder. For red, the wines disappear and prices keep going up, so I feel more compelled to buy every vintage. Perhaps I’ll just flat out be priced out. White seems to vary more by vintage - I went heavy in 2014, pretty much skipped 2015 and 2016, will be moderate to heavy in 2017.

Thoughts?

I buy more in better vintages initially but like to backfill the “weaker” vintages later, when prices are generally better, even on good vintages like 09-10 and especially 13-14.

For example; I have been buying lots of 1er from 09/10/13 top Volnay and CdN 1er for $60-80 and exceptional 13-14s for 100-150, like Barthod and Roumier Cras and fuees, as well as others.

In my life, I’ve never attended a tasting of some long list of consecutive vintages of a wine. I know they exist occasionally, and some small number of wines would be cool to taste in that way, but the idea has no special interest to me.

There are a few wines I buy every year, and I may have a few stretches of consecutive vintages in the cellar, but I wouldn’t use them to serve all side by side.

If I built a vertical, I’d be petrified of drinking something and breaking the vertical…

There are a couple producers for whom I try to keep a vertical, but only for Burgundy. Almost everything else is quite easy to backfill.

I love collecting verticals but it’s kinda silly. I have a vertical of Monte Bello starting in 1987. 15 of those are singles. So I’m screwed if I ever open one… I have similarly wide ranging interests. Lots of threads on giving up on lists and the compulsion to buy and how liberating that can be.

Only reasons to buy every year:

  1. the wine is just that goodevery year
  2. allocated wine/tight list where I won’t get another offer if I drop off
  3. intellectual interest, if you can afford it
  4. personal relationship, or the gratifying illusion of it, with the winemaking team

Like Chris, I’ve never hosted a vertical tasting, nor have any wine buddies done so either. I don’t think you need to be beholden to the idea of verticals. In some regions, like Burgundy and Bordeaux, prices get spun higher if it’s a spectacular year. Just give me good honest wine at fair pricing for the wineries I like to buy year-in and year-out.

I buy excellent vintages then backfill good vintages so I have something to drink earlier. I do have consecutive vintages of Domain Chevalier Rouge & Blanc but its not for a vertical that I will drink all in 1 day.
I absolutely hate producers that require you to get allocations every year or get kicked off their list.

Verticals can be phenomenal experiences - eliminating so many variables and taking it down largely to differences of vintage (and differences in winemaking or other historical quirks sometimes). Multiple tastes of the same wine from different years gives some insight into the aging process as well. There are problems - bottle variation, Storage, provenance, and it can get a bit monotonous to just taste the same wine over and over, but I really do recommend it!

No.
Don’t want every vintage.
No compulsion to build verticals with wines I don’t want.

I used to be on some lists that were buy or get dropped.
Eventually quit them all.

For me, all the RLdH wines. Gran Reserva, Reserva, and Crianza. Red, white, and rose. Tondonia, Bosconia, Cubillo, and Gravonia. Every vintage I’ve been able to get and, for the foreseeable future, every one I can. Everyone with the common attributes of the family, yet distinctive in some ways. Drink em young, drink em old. I kinda like these wines… [cheers.gif]

With higher end burgundies, you do not usually get a choice if you are buying them from a merchant charging an honest average retail markup. But then again, for the past 20 years you would be crazy to complain about such an arrangement because you could flip even the lesser vintages for cost or more and keep the ones you want.

Otherwise, I think it is a good idea and I do it with a few wines because part of the intellectual fun of understanding wine is to see how each vintage performs over time. And if the wine is good, you can find a specific use for most vintages.

Another reason it can be a good idea is something Michael Broadbent wisely said long ago- namely that it takes a good 10 years to really see where a vintage is going. 1995 is a good example in Bordeaux. The few concerning TNs I have posted here in the past year have been met in some cases with claims the vintage was never all that great- and maybe some of you knew that. But the fact remains that in the general press hype at the time it was touted as a great vintage. Or look at how 1986s have evolved. Better still, the 2003s which some people love and some people absolutely hate.

Even in the great vintages, some wines do not fare all that well. The longer it takes a vintage to mature- the more time the wine has to either develop in all sorts of magical directions. However, many wines may spend that time going out of balance. Looking back at the past 50 years, how many great vintages in Bordeaux have been uniformly at least very good at the vast majority of the more esteemed chateaux? 1982 and 2000 are the only two that come to mind. Perhaps 2005 as well, but I have not tried enough of them to claim that. In every other good year there are notable wines that have proved quite disappointing.

The opposite is true as well. Many less regarded vintages perform to the upside with time. 1985 and 1988 were well regarded at release- but not 5 star years except for Broadbent, but these days many of my finest Bordeaux experiences are coming from those two years. I think 2002 could prove similar upside potential.

Point being, you are never as safe as you think being too selective about which vintages to buy.

More important- what are your criteria for a “great vintage”. Is it power and critical score? Or are your great vintages someone else’s 3 star vintages. Personally, I lay in my biggest stashes of years like 2008 in Bordeaux or 2001 in Burgundy. Those are the vintages that will be of greatest use to me in time. Many others think this way too, but too many collectors without the self-knowledge that comes from trying a wide array of vintages get too hung up on the big and sexy years. Those wines are great in certain settings, but not all.

But back to your main point- once one has a fair amount of experience, I think you should only do complete verticals if you really want to see the complete story of a given wine over time, and you will pay a premium in both cost and use of storage space for that privilege. BUT if you do not have that experience to fall back on, being overly selective- especially if you are paying the secondary market premium for “top vintages” during the release hype- you risk paying the same premium over the longer term as some of those wines do not turn out as you hoped- quite a few of them potentially.

For my part, I backfill every single vintage of Magdelaine I do not have as older bottles become available. Same for Schaefer Spatlese Auction and #5. Those are the three wines I really must have every year. I would add Lafite back into that mix if it were a viable option- which it no longer is. Meo is a fairly new addition to my stable, but that one will be every year as well until I stop buying new Burgundy altogether (already about there with Bordeaux as I am now 46.)

Geez, Tom, you are just a baby. Were you legal to drink back when we met and had 85 DRC Richebourg among other wines? I should have carded you.

Nice, this is a must buy every year for sure. Mugneret-Gibourg is a total must buy from every year.

How are you bsckfilled Schaefer Spat auction? Don’t know that I’ve ever seen the auction bottlings offered or sold

I also bought a number of 2001 Burgundies (not so much 2008 Bordeaux largely because I don’t buy that much Bordeaux anymore - I feel like I am too old). But, curious, are there more recent vintages (say 2010 on - i.e., where the wines are in the market) where you are laying in bigger stashes?

I put together Bordeaux verticals for a client, and we decided to put in the occasional off vintage but see no reason to taste everything just because it was made at the Château. And those off vintages are almost always forgotten afterwards, although I did find 1974 Trotanoy from such a tasting.

The Burgundies we do may included more off vintages, because 1.They can, and do surprise and 2. It is much harder to put together Burgundy verticals.

California makes more sense, as the wines are more consistent from year to year. Even so, there are a few vintages which are mediocre, as I found to my cost with Dunn 1988. ( For those who think Dunns never mature, this one did, although it’s not very good, and the 1989 is only a touch better.)

15-16 bdx are at least very good across the chateaux imo. You could probably argue 10 was as well.

I also backfill vintages of the Schaefer #5 (and Magdelaine and Poyferre at a good price)!

I love verticals because they are fun but am not a slave to buying and owning them. No need to have every vintage of anything. Among wines I bought fairly consistently over the years when I was buying more heavily are: Huet LM and CdB Demi-Sec and 1er Trie, still buy LM; Chevillon Cailles, still; Cotat cousin Mont Damne and Grand Côte, but stopped; Thomas-Labaille Mont Damne Cuvee Buster; Schaefer GD Spatlese generally (including when the numbering designation was more fluid but now the #5); Prum WS Spatlese; Juge Cornas when relevant; Roumier Chambolle and Bonne Mares, unfortunately not for a long time now.

If Poyferre did not spoof, I would have bought that more regularly as there was a time I would backfill bottles of 82, 83, 85, 89, 90, 95.

I don’t buy verticals for verticals sake or to do a vertical dinner. I only buy successive vintages because I adore the style from a producer and find them reliably in my wheel house. Usually though the producer tends to catch fire and I feel forced to drop off the bandwagon. I hate paying $100+ for something I used to buy for $50 a year or three ago. Its happening right now with Burlotto Barolos. For 2014, I only bought the terrific straight Barolo. None of the single vineyards I had been buying.