TN: 2017 Beau Rivage Chenin Blanc (USA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg)

First I saw “Chenin Blanc from Clarksburg California”…intrigued…as I’m a huge fan of the Chenin Blanc’s Sandlands produces from the sandy soils of the central valley ca.(where I live)…and back in the day, use to drink TONS of the summer gulping Chenin Blanc/Viognier that Pine Ridge Vineyards makes from Clarksburg, Ca. THEN…I see this wine is from our very own, Burgundy aficionado, WILLIAM KELLEY! Sold! Where do I buy some?

• 2017 Beau Rivage Chenin Blanc - USA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg (3/21/2019)
  Shimmering pale gold/green tinge color…floral and tropical, banana skin wax, crushed chalk, lanolin oil, cool sea breeze nose. Little shy at first on the palate…showing waxy pitted and tropical fruits, with a refreshingly zippy citrus cut…a lovely subtlety and savory chalkiness, classic lanolin and wax. With 30mins of air it has creamed up really nice, almost an oily texture now, yet still obtaining super fresh tartness, staunch minerality, and pretty florals. What harmony for such a youngster…and it REALLY gains on you after the first glass! Super impressed! (94 pts.)

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I’m tempted.

Thanks so much! Warmly appreciated, and immensely gratifying to read.

The wine shut down pretty hard after bottling so I’m glad we waited the better part of a year to release it. That certainly made me more sympathetic to producers whose wines I taste shortly after bottling, too.

I love Vouvray and chenin blanc, so Buzz’s note intrigued me enough to get a bottle. I opened it tonight and really enjoyed it, though I think it does represent the more minerally form of Chenin more than the richer white fruit versions common in Vouvray. Lovely wine!

• 2017 Beau Rivage Chenin Blanc - USA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg (4/7/2019)
  Coravin. Pale golden color; medium-high intensity aromatics, lanolin, peach pit, sea breeze with a strong salinity; palate is medium-full bodied, dry, balanced medium alcohol (12.1%), schist and lemon-lime minerality throughout, tangy fruit through the midpalate; medium length finish. This is a balanced, enjoyable, complex wine with character. I would compare this much more with the more minerally Savennieres (but better, because the lower alcohol makes it more balanced) rather than the richer more fruit forward Vouvray. 92 (92 pts.)

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Nice one Ashish! The “more minerally form of Chenin” is going to intrigue a lot of people!

Drinking bottle #2 right now…confirms the first! The wife said…”this is better than that sand stuff(Sandlands) that you had before!” She’s a fan as well William!

Opening a Vinum Cellars Clarksburg Chenin tonight with grilled salmon.

When I was out in Clarksburg about 5 years ago there was very little small producer Chenin available to taste. I wonder if the situation has changed?

I think people are beginning to take an interest - but hopefully not too late, as lots of Chenin has been ripped up to be replaced by Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Petite etc over the last couple of decades.

I would add that there is often a vicious cycle, whereby comparatively inexpensive grapes are not given the same attention as more expensive grapes in the winery. We are always there to supervise the pick (among other things, ensuring no stunted grapes from eutypa-infected vines make it into the bins). Then the grapes go over a sorting table with five or six people sorting (mainly for unripe clusters and botrytis). And then we taste at the press. The must then ferments in used barrels and demi muids from top coopers such as Gauthier. While there are a variety of things one might like to change about the vineyard (clones, yields), so far the end result suggests that the grapes merit the work. By contrast, I suspect most Clarksburg Chenin isn’t sorted and is tank fermented, which—especially at quite low brix—is inevitably going to give a much more herbaceous, grassy style of wine, and one with a lot less texture and dimension.

As for the best French analogy for the style of the wine, I would suggest a Saumur Blanc or a dry Anjou as the best fit—though the Savennières analogy is certainly flattering! Compared to Loire Chenin, our acids are a bit lower but we have no residual sugar, so we are are some distance from the sweet-sour dynamic of Vouvray.

The 2016 Vinum was wonderful. Pretty floral and jasmine nose, good texture, mineral finish and very enjoyable.

KL has this for $19.99…just bought another case!

Thanks for the heads up! I bought a few more bottles.

It has just been picked up by a very exciting restaurant for BTG… stay tuned! We are delighted.