There are two Vermont restaurants, the original in a mill in Waterbury, the newer one in Burlington. I’d been to Waterbury once and found a fine, all-American list. Dinner last week was in Burlington and I was warned it featured natural wines. Turns out we tried three excellent wines by the glass… I have not idea if they were natural, but in this case it wasn’t an issue.
Brief notes, approximate scores as these were before my glorious Mount Eden dinner and several full days of working tastings… memories are slightly foggy.
2016 Angelin Nebbiolo - Never heard of this producer, very glad to make the acquaintance. Even in the dark restaurant, this had a pale color, but with intense floral, earthy and red cherry aromas, no hint of tar or anything like it. The palate was simply brilliant, live and piquant, yet smooth, with finesse, intricacy and length. This is a poster-child for entry-level Piedmont Nebbiolo, rated 90.5, ready to drink. It had great subtlety for 2 1/2 years and any further gain in subtlety might come at the expense of freshness.
2016 Montinore Pinot Gris - The aromas were ripe, with seckel pear and a surprising melon note along with some smoke. The palate was rich, with enough acidity to balance but a little more would have been welcome. Still, there was something almost stately about it, in a minor key, a pleasant glass but nothing memorable. While Alsace Pinot Gris can be both soft and very long lived, this is fully mature. Rated 86.
2015 Farmstrong Field Red - WOTN on a low-key wine night. Never heard of this, don’t know what’s in it, but we’re talking burly Zin style. The aromas had the telltale brambles, fresh sturdy black fruit. The palate was medium-bodied, savory, chewy, grainy, extremely pleasing, like you had stumbled in to dinner in a rural southern Italian or Greek household and they pulled out the good stuff for their guest. Rated 92, so good that I wouldn’t want to age it, although it might improve. I’m going to look for this.
Dan Kravitz