Aged Mount Eden with a great vegetarian dinner (long)

Commercial post? I dunno, probably not. I’m writing about the man who represents my wines in Vermont, a friend of long standing.
It’s not a restaurant, he’s an old buddy who I am just really getting to know. If you are in the area, look him up, he might cook for you and pull a cork. I had never been to his house before, or seen his cellar, or eaten his cooking and all three just blew me away.
John Fagan worked for a wholesaler in Vermont for 30+ years. He brought them a plethora of amazing West Coast producers, collected their wines and has a cellar full of greatness. He invited me to his home on a hill above Waterbury for dinner. John has been a vegetarian for 50 years, knows everything worth knowing about Vermont foods that are not meat. In his 67 years he has been a professional musician, carpenter, wine merchant, gardener &c. There aren’t many renaissance people left. John is one of them.

Except for the tamari filberts and the olives, the finger foods were all from his garden. Kimchi, sauerkraut, carrots (all fermented, no vinegar). These were accompanied by:

2010 Mount Eden Reserve Chardonnay – Medium gold color. Beautiful aromas of lime, hazelnuts and yeasty bread. Fresh, subtle intense palate replicates the aromas, now joined by distinct conifer flavors. This is just approaching maturity, rated 94, up to 3 points of improvement likely.

Moving right along to celeriac, potato and apple soup, all from his property, accompanied by a peppery pesto made from the celeriac leaves. This is one of the best soups I’ve ever had, and I’ve had a lot of soup:

1997 Mount Eden Pinot Noir Cuvee des Vieilles Vignes – Aromas are all PN, all the time. This is blatantly not Burgundian, blatantly not New World, blatantly from a better version of our home planet. The intense red cherry and black raspberry aromas have a wild brambly component, as if somebody snuck a tiny bit of Zin into it. The flavors have some old world sous-bois but are dominated by fresh cherry fruit. This is a wine that is not fully mature. There are slightly intrusive, peppery tannins. Rated 90, up to 4 points of improvement possible in 5+ years, but I honestly do not know where this is going.

With pizza; crust by Green Rabbit Bakery, didn’t catch where the tomato sauce came from, onions and different pesto from John’s garden, smoked Mozzarella from Maple Brook Farm; then the last course a cheese selection from Jasper Hill, some their own cheeses, some they age for neighbors… I did not know they were affineurs as well as producers.

1997 Mount Eden Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vine Reserve – This is a handsome devil approaching middle age but not there yet. The color is intense ruby to the rim. The aromas are young and savory, with notes of tiny red fruits, conifer and more mineral than earth. The palate surprises with finesse, the fruit has taken a decided turn towards the black, with blackberries over currants. There is no shortage of tannins, but they are so fine-grained that you could be forgiven for missing them. The finish is long but not as long as I expected, the unexpected hint of abruptness stating that this has a long way to go. A year ago I had the pleasure of attending a tasting of 1973 – 1987 Mount Eden Cabernets, none old, so longevity is not an issue. Rated 92.5, up to 5 points of improvement likely, peak probably about 2030 but obviously could go longer.

John couldn’t let me leave without a gift bottle, and what a bottle!
2012 Bedrock Papera Ranch - Medium to dark ruby color. The aromas are a wild mix of red and black fruit, with a pronounced overlay of sage. The palate is surprisingly soft and silky, yet somehow also rustic. This oddly reminds me of a Greek wine, as if you were to make an unholy but successful blend of Nemea with some northern Italian wine. I don’t have much experience with Bedrock or recently with old California field blends. This is rated 91.5, seems fully mature to me.

A monumentally great dinner offered by a wonderful friend.

Dan Kravitz

Sweet! Thanks for posting.

Great notes and sounds like a wonderful night. Cooking a great vegetarian meal can be a challenge, at least to me! Hope all is well.

Greg

That ‘97 Old Vine Reserve is really a nice wine.

Had a bottle of the 2010 Chardonnay the other night and it was singing - quite beautiful and elegant and I agree that it is still showing young and bright and full of zest. Will have to pick up a couple of bottles to see how they age.

Cheers!

I’ve very much enjoyed John’s posts and am embarrassed to say that I only now realize that it’s been a while. I’m glad that he’s well and hope to see him posting. Thanks for the great write-up.

If you don’t eat meat, does that mean you forfeit your place at the top of the food chain as a “predator” and move down a few steps to the level of “prey” with the rest of the plant eaters?

Local broker is bringing Mt Eden rep in for a wine dinner in a couple months. Really looking forward to it.

Wow! That is the best tribute I’ve ever gotten or ever will. Thank you, Dan. I’m honored to represent your wines and to be included as one of your many friends. You are always welcome at my home.

I have long held the belief that the best wineries of Santa Cruz are every bit as good as Napa, and is less famous, traveled etc because the best wineries are almost impossible to reach, taking the driving skills of a decent rally driver. Mount Eden is one of those top wineries, and when I was selecting the wines for a major birthday of my wife, I called Ellie at the winery who recommended a magnum of their 2011 Chardonnay reserve. It was one the standouts of an incredible evening, and we paired it with a lobster consommé, a glorious combination.

We also did the big vertical last year, which showed the longevity and greatness of the reds. There is a thread on this somewhere on this board.

I certainly agree, Mark. Dan told me about your great vertical tasting.

I certainly agree, Mark. Dan told me about your great vertical tasting.

Ian,

Not sure about forfeiting one’s place at the top of the food chain.

I should mention before continuing that I am an omnivore and a hunter (deer). I should also mention that I have never fired a shot at a deer without killing it instantly. When I fail to do that I will stop hunting as I would no longer consider it ethical for me to continue.

Vegetarians of course lead longer lives than meat-eaters.
Vegetarians of course lead healthier lives than meat-eaters.
Vegetarians tend to contribute far less to global warming, although I infer from your post that you probably do not believe in global warming.
Many species of turtles and tortoises are vegetarian and are not prey. Many of these species outlive most, in some cases all, humans.

Do you have any more questions?

Dan Kravitz

if a wine has barnyard or game notes at a vegetarian dinner is that viewed as a positive or a negative?

HUGE positive! All of the pleasure, none of the guilt. At least for game notes.

The barnyard may depend on your personal feelings about and emotional connection to cowshit. I speak as someone whose whole life has been a pilgrimage from urban to rural.

Dan Kravitz

that was my thinking too. sounds like a great time!

Interesting way to react to my post, which was meant to have some levity. At first, I was going to say how sanctimonious your attitude is, but then I realized it wouldn’t change a single thing. Next I was going to ask where your did your studies, but why bother?

Allow me to make a parting comment: you fit right in here with all the other smug stuffed shirts. Enjoy your clubhouse! I’ve had my fill.

As a smug stuffed shirt, I resent that comment; and Dan is one of the good guys.

Why, your witty sense of humor in reaction to my awkward attempt at humor has me utterly flabbergasted. Well, I never! I look down on your type, you elitist, you!

Monumental wine selection, Dan, plus excellent tasting notes!! Thanks for sharing!


I am sometimes puzzled as to how some unusual spicing/flavor combinations in vegetarian dishes (tamari, celeriac leaves, and gasp smoked cheese) affect the taste of accompanying wines.

Does anyone care to comment?