Bijan organized another exceptional wine dinner. This time, we were comparing Haut Brion vs La Mission Haut Brion. Mr. Bernard Burtschy, the wine writer for Le Figaro and a great friend to Bijan and I, was in town for the heart delight Heart’s Delight Wine Tasting & Auction. He lead the dinner and provided a lot of useful information. Eleven of us got together at Taberna del Alabardero to drink 8 vintages of Haut Brion and 7 vintages of La Mission Haut Brion. The tasting menu was good and complemented the wines very well. The wine service by Maria was exceptional. The great classic private room was a big plus once again.
It was really fascinating and educational to compare the styles of the two properties. Bernard pointed out that the style of Haut Brion has remained constant where the style of La Mission Haut Brion has changed significantly over the years. His point was quite evident in the line up. The 64 and the 70 La Mission were mostly red fruit driven classic clarets. The 82 and younger wines seemed to be more concentrated than the Haut Brions. For my palate, I prefer the finesse and balance of Haut Brions over the power and concentration of La Mission Haut Brions. What was remarkable in all the wines were exceptional freshness, impeccable balance and incredible finesse. All the wines, except the 64 La Mission Haut Brion which was slightly musty, were excellent. The 90 and younger remained incredibly youthful yet so pleasurable to drink. The 00 Haut Brion was simply perfect.
Bernard with with very French mannerism.
Bernard and Bijan
Damages
My futile attempt at a new rating system. Higher rating is better only for the green highlighted items.
Champagne
The 05 Dom was delightful. The 09 Dom was dense and not too expressive.
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1996 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne - France, Champagne
Perfectly mature nose, burnt sugar and smoke oyster. Excellent showing but not as fresh and less abundant mousse than the previous two magnum examples.
Dominant Fruit: Lemon curd and baked apple
Balance: 9
Expressiveness: 9
Complexity: 10
Ripeness: 9
Purity: 8
Intensity: 8
Bead Size: 10
Generous Mousse: 7
Precision: 8
Acidity: 10
Concentration: 9
Maturity: 10
Modern (Oak): 0
Condition: 8 (96 pts.)
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2005 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
This has lightened up. Really floral and sweet, delicate, fresh and delightful. I slightly prefer to the 09 served next which seems to be deeper and riper, and shutdown a bit.
Dominating Fruit: Lemon zest and pear
Balance: 9
Expressiveness: 9
Complexity: 6
Purity: 10
Ripeness: 9
Intensity: 7
Bead Size: 8
Generous Mousse: 8
Precision: 8
Acidity: 7
Concentration: 8
Modern (Oak):0
Maturity: 1
Condition: 10 (95 pts.)
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2009 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
Floral and sweet like the 09 but more weight and deeper. Also, the fruit is riper than the 05. Seems a bit shutdown.
Dominating Fruit: Lemon and pineapple
Balance: 8
Expressiveness: 7
Complexity: 7
Purity: 9
Ripeness: 10
Intensity: 8
Bead Size: 9
Generous Mousse: 9
Precision: 7
Acidity: 7
Concentration: 9
Modern (Oak):0
Maturity: 1
Condition: 10 (94 pts.)
White Burgundy
Very Californian nose but uniquely Burgundian palate.
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2007 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Really ripe and modern in the nose with coconut, vanilla and butterscotch. The palate is surprisingly precise, lean and focused. Modern nose and classic palate.
Dominant Fruit: White peach and apple pie
Balance: 8
Expressiveness: 8
Complexity: 8
Purity: 6, very ripe and strong oak
Ripeness: 9
Intensity: 7
Silkiness: 8
Precision: 7
Acidity: 9
Concentration: 7
Modern (Oak): 7
Maturity: 8
Over Ripeness: 1
Condition: 10 (93 pts.)
64 & 70
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1964 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Fully mature red fruit driven nose with strong sous bois. There is a hint of dirty damp cellar smell that prevents from being pure. This is a classic claret. Wishing to try a clean bottle one day.
Dominant Fruit: Cherry
Balance: 8
Expressiveness: 8
Complexity: 9
Ripeness: 7
Purity: 5, only because the dirty smell
Intensity: 7
Silkiness: 8
Precision: 7
Acidity: 8
Tannins: 3, still showing a bit which is surprising
Concentration: 7
Maturity: 10
Modern (Oak): 0
Over Ripeness: 0
Condition: 10 (91 pts.)
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1970 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Exceptional concentration but a bit one dimensional. Dominating black fruit and still pronounced oak/cedar. This particular bottle seems still youthful but not sure how this will evolve in ten years. The 70 Haut Brion has been inconsistent for me.
Dominant Fruit: Cassis
Balance: 7
Expressiveness: 7
Complexity: 8
Ripeness: 10
Purity: 7
Intensity: 9
Silkiness: 7
Precision: 6
Tannins: 6
Acidity: 6
Concentration: 10
Maturity: 8
Modern (Oak): 3
Over ripeness: 1
Condition: 10 (93 pts.)
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1970 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Perfectly mature claret that is drinking exceptional well. Classic LMHB with smoke/ash and peppermint.
Dominant Fruit: Cherry
Balance: 9
Expressiveness: 8
Complexity: 9
Ripeness: 7
Purity: 9
Intensity: 8
Silkiness: 9
Precision: 9
Tannins: 5
Acidity: 8
Concentration: 7
Maturity: 10
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 0
Condition: 10 (95 pts.)
82 & 90
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1982 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
This has reached the youthful peak. Very complex but not showing a lot of tertiary notes other than cedar. Incredibly silky, very fresh and perfectly balanced. For a few, WOTN, perhaps the best drinking at the moment. The best example.
Dominant Fruit: Cherry
Balance: 10
Expressiveness: 9
Complexity: 9
Ripeness: 10
Purity: 9
Intensity: 8
Silkiness: 10
Precision: 10
Tannins: 6
Acidity: 9
Concentration: 9
Maturity: 8
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 0
Condition: 10 (98 pts.)
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1982 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Significantly darker and intense than the 82 Haut Brion. Bernard attributes to the low yield which was only half of the 82 HB. There is a hint of musty smell that is slightly distracting. I have preferred it to the 82 HB in the past. Big scale wine that can improve for another two decades or more, reminding me of the 61 which is a monster. A couple of the guys really love it.
Dominant Fruit: Crème de cassis and dry black cherry
Balance: 8
Expressiveness: 9
Complexity: 9
Ripeness: 10
Purity: 7
Intensity: 10
Silkiness: 9
Precision: 8
Tannins: 7
Acidity: 9
Concentration: 10
Maturity: 8
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 0
Condition: 7 (94 pts.)
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1990 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Expressive, hedonistic perfectly ripe black fruit, sensual palate. Starting to show cedar and leather. As much tertiary notes as the 82 but more youthful and intense fruit expression.
Dominant Fruit: Blackberry and blueberry liqueur
Balance: 10
Expressiveness: 10
Complexity: 9
Ripeness: 10
Purity: 9
Intensity: 9
Silkiness: 10
Precision: 9
Tannins: 7
Acidity: 7
Concentration: 10
Maturity: 6
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 0
Condition: 10 (98 pts.)
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1990 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Incredibly intense nose and concentrated palate. Although very youthful, showing telltale signs of LMHB, strong tobacco, ash, smoked meat, lead pencil, flower dust and etc. Although incredibly concentrated, the dominant fruit expression is red. I slightly prefer the sensual palate expression of the 90 HB.
Dominant Fruit: Red currant and cherry.
Balance: 9
Expressiveness: 10
Complexity: 9
Ripeness: 10
Purity: 8
Intensity: 10
Silkiness: 9
Precision: 8
Tannins: 7
Acidity: 8
Concentration: 10
Maturity: 6
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 0
Condition: 10 (96 pts.)
98 & 00
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1998 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
I love the 98 HB and this time is no exception. Expressive, intense yet pure red fruit, so silky, bright acidity and still noticeable but fine tannins. Very close if not equal to the 90 and 00 versions. Drinking beautifully.
Dominant Fruit: Cherry concentrated, red currant.
Balance: 9
Expressiveness: 10
Complexity: 9
Ripeness: 9
Purity: 10
Intensity: 9
Silkiness: 9
Precision: 9
Tannins: 8
Acidity: 9
Concentration: 9
Maturity: 7
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 0
Condition: 10 (97 pts.)
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1998 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Intense inky nose, 60/40 red and black fruit. A hint of ash and wet tobacco hinting the terroir. Really impressive wine but a bit one dimensional especially compare to the refined and pure 98 HB. Can improve for another two decades or more.
Dominant Fruit: Crème de cassis, plum and red currant
Balance: 8
Expressiveness: 9
Complexity: 8
Ripeness: 9
Purity: 8
Intensity: 10
Silkiness: 9
Precision: 8
Tannins: 7
Acidity: 9
Concentration: 10
Maturity: 6
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 0
Condition: 10 (94 pts.)
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2000 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Incredibly user friendly in the most noble way! Hedonistic opulent yet perfectly pure black fruit. Silky and sensual. Perfect amount of acidity and mineral. There is a hint of vanilla/luxury oak that gives the modern impression. Love at first sight for me but some initially thinks too young but change their minds with air. Though young, perfect!
Dominant Fruit: Crème de cassis, perfectly ripe pure black fruit.
Balance: 10
Expressiveness: 10
Complexity: 9
Ripeness: 10
Purity: 10
Intensity: 10
Silkiness: 10
Precision: 10
Tannins: 8
Acidity: 9
Concentration: 10
Maturity: 4
Modern (Oak): 3
Over ripeness: 0
Condition: 10 (100 pts.)
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2000 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Incredibly concentrated and intense wine. One of two most youthful wine of the evening, along with the 02 Haut Brion. More concentrated and powerful than the 00 Haut Brion but ever so slightly less refined. It can easily improve for another half century. Monumental wine with imposing scale.
Dominant Fruit: Intense red and black fruit, crème de cassis, cherry and plum.
Balance: 10
Expressiveness: 10
Complexity: 9
Ripeness: 10
Purity: 9
Intensity: 10
Silkiness: 10
Precision: 9
Tannins: 8
Acidity: 9
Concentration: 10
Maturity: 3
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 0
Condition: 10 (98 pts.)
01, 02 & 03
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2001 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
As expressive and intense as the 00 but a bit angular. Perfectly ripe red and black fruit. Strong tobacco and lead pencil yet the fruit is still very youthful. Needs another decade or two to reach the peak. Excellent big scale Haut Brion. I thought the last bottle from a year ago was very polished, a bit different than the impression this time but both excellent.
Dominant Fruit: Crème de cassis and red currant
Balance: 9
Expressiveness: 10
Complexity: 8
Ripeness: 10
Purity: 8
Intensity: 10
Silkiness: 9
Precision: 8
Tannins: 8
Acidity: 9
Concentration: 10
Maturity: 4
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 0
Condition: 10 (95 pts.)
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2002 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Expressive nose, ripe black fruit but there is a hint of green like mixing 90% perfectly ripe fruit with a 10% unripe fruit. Very concentrated and intense first impression but a bit hollow in the middle. Slightly coarse and chunky tannins. Needs another decade or two.
Dominant Fruit: Intense black fruit with a hint of red
Balance: 7
Expressiveness: 9
Complexity: 8
Ripeness: 8
Purity: 7
Intensity: 9
Silkiness: 7
Precision: 8
Tannins: 9
Acidity: 9
Concentration: 8
Maturity: 3
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 0
Condition: 10 (93 pts.)
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2003 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
What a difference a year makes! Just like the 01, very different impression. Bernard mentions not showing the 03 extreme ripeness and I agree. Medium expressive nose with warm and round red fruit, only a hint of 03 ripeness. This seems readier than the 00, 01 and 02. Very enjoyable.
Dominant Fruit: Ripe warm red fruit, strawberry jam and plum
Balance: 8
Expressiveness: 9
Complexity: 8
Ripeness: 10
Purity: 7
Intensity: 8
Silkiness: 9
Precision: 8
Tannins: 7
Acidity: 7
Concentration: 9
Maturity: 7
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 3
Condition: 10 (95 pts.)
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2003 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Warm, soft and round, silky palate. Very approachable. Surprisingly, showing bright acidity which helps to maintain good balance. Not as complex as the 03 Haut Brion. At the youthful peak but will not decline rapidly. I suspect this will develop like the 76 vintage, i.e. warm and round, a bit Burgundian with time.
Dominant Fruit: Strawberry and plum
Balance: 8
Expressiveness: 8
Complexity: 7
Ripeness: 10
Purity: 7
Intensity: 8
Silkiness: 9
Precision: 7
Tannins: 7
Acidity: 8
Concentration: 9
Maturity: 9
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 5
Condition: 10 (93 pts.)
Sauternes
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2009 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
No longer displaying fresh white fruit. Dense and deeply toned yellow fruit. A bit cloying as there is no longer fresh white fruit.
Dominant Fruit: Yellow peach and apricot.
Balance: 7
Expressiveness: 8
Complexity: 7
Ripeness: 10
Purity: 7
Intensity: 9
Silkiness: 7
Precision: 7
Acidity: 7
Concentration: 10
Maturity: 4
Modern (Oak): 0
Over ripeness: 2
Condition: 10 (93 pts.)
As usual, a great time was had by all!
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