Trip to Burgundy - February 2019 (27 domaines)

Living, as I do, in the world’s foremost winegrowing region, you may wonder what motivates me to regularly visit another region, indeed, one that has the temerity to consider itself a rival… The simple fact is that viewing Bordeaux and Burgundy as mutually exclusive is exceedingly silly. For complicated reasons (essentially a superiority-cum-inferiority complex), I daresay the Burgundians are more chauvinistic than the Bordelais, who freely acknowledge that the white wines of the Côte d’Or are better than those of the Gironde, and admit to having only a limited acquaintance with red Burgundy. That is due in no small part to the fact that it is not easy to buy fine Burgundy. French supermarkets – i.e. where most people buy wine – often stock classified growth Bordeaux, but rarely premier and grand cru Burgundy.

My personal opinion is that the type of wine one chooses depends to a certain extent on the food that accompanies it. For instance, I would prefer a good Médoc with a grilled steak, but a Burgundy with meat in a sauce, or a stew.

The Bordelais were roundly and bitterly criticized when the prices of their great growths rose dramatically in the mid-2000s. A “fox and the grapes” situation set in and many consumers turned away from Bordeaux, finding reasons other than just expense and, somewhat unfairly, equating the name “Bordeaux” with just the tiny tip of the pyramid (the famous grands crus classés).

In the past 5 years, Burgundy has come more into the limelight on the global market, including China, but at a time when the region had several small or even painfully small vintages in a row. This inexorably led to price rises as staggering as those in Bordeaux the previous decade. Bordeaux now figures nowhere near as prominently as Burgundy on the list of the world’s most expensive wines.
The difference is, of course, that even the finest châteaux in Bordeaux can be quite large. Compare Lafite Rothschild’s 112 hectares with La Romanée’s 0.85 hectares… And the latter is not only a grand cru, but an entire appellation unto itself.
In short, we are talking about two very different realities.

In any event, I have made an annual pilgrimage to Burgundy for the past decade and love the region. This year, I was able to spend two full weeks and visited 27domaines. I am deeply indebted to my friend Ian Westcott, an importer in Melbourne, for making the appointments.

My report on these visits is if found here:

www.bordeauxwineblog.com

Domaines are listed in alphabetical order.


I list a few general observations at the end, as well as my take on the restaurants I went to.

Best regards,
Alex R.

thanks! Very interesting, especially to learn about some new (to me) domaines. And I love the restaurant reviews at the end.

Cool report


The difference is BDX asks for luxury goods pricing for their wines still in barrel, unfinished, and the Chateau keep the profits not the middle man with no price concession for paying ahead and Burgundy asks you to purchase finished wines and the middle man sets the price instead of producer and keeps the profits.

Both are no different than Bentley or Rolls Royce at the top echelon.

Wonderful report. Thanks for the link. Great read on a snowy Sunday morning!

Oh goodness…that was fun, Alex! One of the best wine reads I’ve had in the last year. Your writing shows as much about the personality interactions and the human side of the equation as it does about the wines. Marvelous. So many good people. And the pictures add even more context and depth.

Lynn, Jon and I (and maybe even dad again) have our next visit there planned for a little over a year from now. This will provide a great jumping-off point to maybe try some wines and restaurants that we have not had the chance to check in on.

Mes meilleurs voeux

Mike

Very nice notes Alex. Interesting to see some not so fashionable domaines.

A couple of points from my perspective:

  • Antoine Barthelmé who works at Georges Noellat is I believe the son of the owner of the large Albert Mann estate in Alsace. Interesting link;
  • Gerard Raphet is quite the character. It’s been a couple of years since I visited, and good to see his daughter! In good vintages, they indeed make decent reasonable priced wine. Had a good Clos de la Roche 2006 this weekend.
  • I also like my visit to Duroché in Gevrey last August. Managed to order a couple of 2017s. Thought the wines were more elegant than what I am used to in Gevrey. Very serious winemaker in my view.

Alex,

Could you please help me out? I would love to read your article on the Burgundy domaines but all I find is about BORDEAUX and no link to any BURGUNDY domaine whatsoever… What am I doing wrong?

JOHAN

Not Alex but I think you are looking for this: March 2019 – Bordeaux Wine Blog.

In the Archive section of his blog.

Dear Phil,

Much obliged. Thank you very much for letting me in on a very intersting read
Sincerely JOHAN