2010 Blain-Gagnard Montrachet, Grand Cru: Near perfect white wine. There’s intense citrus fruits to begin. It has a hint of vanilla, some smoke and a core of intense white peach. It is spicy and layered, with a creamy feel against the gums. It’s The Full Monty, everything is in view. Geological matter, fruit, high quality oak, and its seamlessly ,melded together. It is so powerful but so light and expressive. Length is phenomenal.
1978 P. Dubreuil-Fontaine Père & Fils Corton-Clos du Roi: An awesome bottle. Highly expressive nose of freshly grated ginger, smoke, sandalwood, decaying leaves and red fruits. It is sweet, luscious and silky in the mouth. It is so fresh, with a hint of earthy development and carried by a line of fresh minerally acidity. It has fabulous breadth and continues to fan out well after swallowing.
2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano: Loaded with red fruits that have a jube-like quality. There’s plenty of rose petal action and a hint of tar. With air you get truffle and bitter chocolate. It is plump, full and fleshy, with relatively low acidity but enough chew from the tannins to keep everything fresh. Like all great Giacosa wines, this is all about the perfume, and how it draws you in with every sniff.
The question I have for Jeremy is did you know you were going to confuse people with that term?
I’ve certainly had times when I’ve said something and it hasn’t occurred to me that the rest of the world doesn’t know what I am talking about.
I believe it comes from cricket/baseball - hitting the ball so hard that it tears the cover is a fantastic feat of sport, hence a ball-tearer is one that really tops the scale. Given the Aussie usage, it could also be a testicular reference. Jeremy, can you provide cultural advice?
I have only had one 2010 Monty, the Ramonet. It is one of the top 5 white wines of my entire life. I have read many sighnomenal notes on others. I am thinking that 2010 was a brilliant vintage for the Montrachet vineyard proper (not necessarily the whole communes of Chassagne and Puligny). The 2000 Giacosa sounds like it developed beautifully over the night, Jeremy. Thanks for the notes.
My fear as well. Based on a large number of experiences in the 90s when I first got into wine, Blain-Gagnard should be one of the largest holdings in my cellar. I especially loved their Criots.
But a full 12 bottle case of 2002 Montrachet shared with a friend completely oxidized very quickly- and taking into account comments from others, I just cannot cellar the wines.
I dearly hope they figure it out because Blain-Gagnard is one of the greatest of white burgundy producers in my book, but at those prices and with the 100% wipeout I witnessed, I do not dare buy them.
EDIT- Jeremy, meant to say- thank you for the notes. If I see a few more experiences like this with the wines over 5-6 years old, that will be enough to tempt me back into the fold.
scares me off from buying em!