Gavin Chanin and subconsciously rationalizing the American pinot you're drinking

I don’t know Gavin Chanin (Lutum Wines, soon to be defunct, and Chanin Wines, which shall live on, and UCLA brilliant art major I looked him up) but his wines are instructive, sending a strong message of what he is aiming for.

I’ve had so many New World pinots where my brain apologizes to itself upon the entry of the wine onto the palate. “OK its oaky right now but…” “OK its soft now but…” “OK with time it will…” “OK it’s not Burgundy so to expect terroir, or earth, or figuring out the structure, comes later…”

So, tonight I opened Chanin 2016 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County fresh from the back of the minivan. Before I opened it, reading about it, I thought (and without research I still think) this is his low end Villages blend, his Bourgogne. His Lutum Sanford Benedict, a vineyard-designate wine, the only other wine of his I’ve had, I love from the first sip, but this isn’t that, this is less than. Time to mentally excuse, apologize…

Nah. The first sip is a complete fascinating wine three dimensional all kinds of things going on. Perfect ripeness, perfect acidity, bite, earth, no discernable oak until the finish, no discernable sweetness, just a complete wine. Other stuff going on TBD. There are a lot of $80-100 Cote de Nuits “Bourgognes” out there and this surpasses them all, except maybe those with tons of age but that’s apples versus oranges.

So, his lowest end Chanin, my first and only Chanin, wine… I’ve now tried. Freshly delivered. Just…wow.

So…his very high scoring Chardonnays are probably also revelatory and…nah. I expect to have to apologize to myself, for the oak, the softness, the weird leesy funk…Someone open one for me please.

He’s not maklng Burgundy. For the price, he’s making better. I sense he is putting all of his heart soul and integrity into his wines. At any rate that’s what it tastes like and starting tonight I am now an extreme fan. And since 1990 my instincts have served me very well for my palate and I am averse to new discoveries.

If he raises his prices, eff him. If he adds oak or ripeness, goodbye. If he sticks to this pattern of integrity and disciplined application of genius and I can only drink one American pinot, Chanin is it. Unless Burt Williams or Ken Burnap come out of retirement. I see you John Thomas and Gabriel from Clos Saron Home Vineyard…but you guys are getting the full glorious expression from your funky beautiful vineyards, after ten years of age. This guy can get great wine out of any vineyard that has the potential. These aren’t great vineyards yet he’s making great wine.

Thanks!

Last time you spoke like this you turned me on to Birichino that I now love. Will have to seek some out…

Sean

Has anyone tried the 2017 Sanford & Benedict Chard? It’s on mailing list release now. I haven’t had the S&B Chard for a few vintages, but used to love it. Should I dive back in?

What’s wrong with raising prices if it’s that good?

I tasted the 15s a few months ago and picked some up. Can’t speak to the 17 but the s and b Chardonnay was my favorite wine of that visit.

I read this post back in February and while I saw the words on the page, I’m not sure they clicked. Though they did when I read them this time.

Sonoma Pinot Noir was my entree into wine. Yet within 3-4 years I found myself saying “why am I drinking this wine?” way too often. Increasingly I would taste one and just not get it. (note: please do not take this as a statement that I believe there are no good Sonoma Pinot Noirs. From the notes I read on this board I totally get they are out there. I just haven’t had them yet).

Too much oak. Too much heat. No evolution Similar to George I found myself saying “it’s young…” or, as I learned to appreciate older wines, “this was meant to be drunk young…”.

A good example is a Sonoma producer (who I will not name - their wines are fine, just not my style) that my wife and father and law joined on their most recent trip to Sonoma. We were to drink a horizontal of their Pinots for Thanksgiving last year. As I prepped the wines, I sampled them. Of the 3 (that I tried blind), the only one I liked (quite a bit) was a Mendocino.

Flash forward to last month and the owners/winemakers have a wine pairing dinner for members at a restaurant in Chicago. Food was very good. The wines were… correct. They were technically well made. Save for one wine, I didn’t taste any overt oak, or any heat. They were nicely balanced. No RS. The owners/winemakers were lovely people. It was a great story. I found myself apologizing for not liking the wines.

Luckily, I’ve discovered the Santa Cruz mountains, and Willamette Valley, so I don’t have to rationalize or apologize anymore.

[berserker.gif]

George, I’ve known Gavin since he was a cellar rat for Jim Clendenen at ABC and followed his career since and have to agree with you, he is doing a fantastic job in getting the most out of the vineyard and not over manipulating the winemaking aspects. For me, its a matter of balance and his wines across the board reflect wondrous balance. I too am a fan.

BTW, and I’m sad to say, Burt Williams is suffering from what now has resulted in too rapidly advancing Parkinson’s. When he retired after the 2009 vintage of Morning Dew Ranch being his last, he was totally committed to being fully retired. Now I’m just hoping he can be around longer to enjoy it.

Nothing. Budget issue.

Oh no. This is sad. I used to drink more of his wines than any other, five cases a year. I hosted a Burt WS dinner a few months ago and the 96’s were incredible. I still have one case of mixed Burt era wines.

I love that you hosted a Burt WS dinner as I have done a few over the past few years as well. I drank up all of my allocations from the mid 80s on, but re-loaded and have maintained a 5-6 case stash for the past 10+ years. If ever in the Santa Barbara area, I`d be happy to open a bottle or 3.

Interesting, sounds like something I’d like to try for sure and will keep it on my radar.

You really piqued my interest with this write up!




I hate that you have had so many bad experiences with crappy New World PNs. My experience has been the opposite of yours. I am drinking thrilling, fresh, low alcohol, terroir driven pinots from Cali and Oregon on a regular basis.

Like what? I generally avoid crowd favorites like Sea Smoke, ROAR, Melville, and whatnot.

Vincent Fritzshe makes beautiful PNs from Willamette: https://vincentwinecompany.com
Todd Hamina makes outstanding wines from Willamette as well:http://biggiohamina.com Call Todd, he usually has a few older bottles he’ll let you have as well!
Goodfellow Family Vineyards, also has gorgeous red fruited, pure wines from Willamette. Stunning wines really! https://goodfellowfamilycellars.com
Briceland makes awesome PNs from Humbolt county:http://bricelandvineyards.com
Ed Kurtzman has sensational minimalistic/neutral oak wines at Sandler:http://www.sandlerwine.com
Rhys, Kutch, and Clos Saron go without saying…
Some other growers I have liked from Anderson Valley: Cabot, Navarro, and Woodenhead


This is at least a good place to start.Do you happen to participate in Berserkerday?

Charlie’s list is excellent and the only addition I’d make would be Mt Eden for a Santa Cruz Mountain Pinot that somehow doesn’t get enough love.

As long as we are adding to the list, I`d add Drew to the Anderson Valley portion and ABC to the overall list.

Firstly, thanks Charlie for including Briceland.

Secondly, plus 1 on Drew. Nice stuff!

Another producer doing great things with Santa Barbara County Pinot (and Chardonnay) is Deovlet.

Thanks Andrew and Ken… two new producers for me to look into!