Both of these bottles were sourced from wine cellarage.
2011 PYCM Chassagne Montrachet 1er Chenevottes
From a Mineralite. Flint on the nose initially but it dissipated quickly. Nice notes of lemon zest, and a hint of butterscotch. Rich palate but not heavy. Lithe and good acidity. Very well integrated. This is drinking wonderfully. Have a bit more I saved for tomorrow.
2008 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
From Grassl Cru. From 375. Popped and left open for an hour or so. I poured about half an ounce into the glass to see how it was, and it was quite open. Evolved over the next 2 hours. Cloudberries and black cherries on the nose. Palate was remarkably well integrated but the thing that stood out was remarkable purity and focus of fruit and etherealness. The pedigree was clear and vintage character was clear too. Not a ton of weight on the palate but very open, accessible, and generous. Finish was very long and wonderful. I wish I had a lot more of these in the cellar.
There seems to be little love these days for Clos des Lambrays - it’s been some years since I’ve seen it mentioned among Berserkers’ favourite burgs.
John Gilman remains a fan, but I feel top wines are being judged on their ability to knock people’s socks off when young. When did the idea of a food wine lose interest? So many reviews seem to regard a great burgundy almost as drinking best without food, or even as a substitute for food. I guess that’s a strong Germanic tradition, but surely not French.
Hi Michael,
I don’t get your drift. My post said nothing about price, and neither, to my mind, did your response.
I accept that Lambrays’ price has risen since the LVMH takeover, but really the under-enthusiastic response to Lambrays - both in the US and the UK - dates back at least to the 2006-8 vintages, before its price started to escalate.
If we’re talking about drinkability right now - by preference with food - then I’d say 2000-2003, 2006, 2007 and just about bow 2008. After that, I must mention 2011 - forget all the green meanies BS - this wine is a crunchy beauty. Don’t take my word for it - try it for yourself.
Thus endeth…
Nigel, I think what Michael is saying is that most of the time, Board darlings typically experience a huge prices increase, therefore, with Lambrays, if it flies under the radar, then at least it is still affordable compared to its counterparts in Burgundy (ie. Rousseau, Dujac, etc). Now, not saying that has anything to do with the perception of how it pairs with or without food. . . just my take on Michael’s comment regarding “prices”.
I agree, burgundy for the dinner table needs to be priced at a point where you can enjoy it regularly without breaking the bank. Lambrays does not fit that bill any more unless you are loaded. I just happen to have been lucky to buy them at the old prices - @US60 to 90 p.b.
I think Chalonnais wines from Givry and Rully are underrated, and certainly repay ageing - or looking for to backfill when mature vintages come up for sale. Also, Burgundy winemakers are buying up Hautes Cotes de Nuits vineyards - and land - as global warming means those are finding those terriors are producing riper and more high-quality wines. That should ensure a future supply of more affordable but still burgundian wines for the dinner table.